Creating beads with a FLAT graver (2nd essay) => 11 photos

 In this 2nd (final) version of creating wire beads, I'll be showing exactly how these special beads will look during the preparation process.

 This delicate process had no "CAD" involved; it was all hand-carved.

   Only a Flat graver can achieve this delicate technique.

SETTING OF THE STONES.

1) With your Flat graver, place the corner of the blade at the four corners of the hole. Then you can twist that sliver of metal OVER THE GIRDLE OF THE STONE.

 2) Both of my stones have been accurately gauged for this delicate procedure.

3) Just for your information, this is how my ring clamp has been held.

4) Remember to lower the stone deep into the metal. The deeper you go, the stronger the beads will be.

5) In this photo, you will observe where the graver will be placed.

6) You can see where the Flat graver has started to create two of the beads.

7) Remember to "Dig in & Twist"; this will give you an excellent hand-made bead.

8) Please keep the edge of your Flat graver sharp. The fine edge will cut easily into the metal.

9) There is no need to bead-burnish the tip of the wire beads.

10) This process of making wire beads is the beginning of the "Cut Down" diamond setting technique.

11) I used a fine-pointed Onglette graver #1 to make an extension of the wire bead.

12) With this intricate bead-making technique, you can set delicate and very fragile stones.

13) Don't forget to lower your stone deeper into the metal. This will give you stronger and thicker wire-beads.

Creating metal beads using a FLAT graver? 10 photos (first of two instructions)

  This Scale of Difficulty is 'just off the board', why? There is nothing easy about this innovative procedure. There could be errors of every kind before this ring has even been completed.

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 1) The first thing we see is that the Ruby stone must be set lower than normal into the metal.

 2) Placing the flat cutting edge into the metal and then 'pivot' or twist the sharp front face into the metal.  

    

 Supposing that the first step is to place the stone into this hole. From this one simple photo, there are two things WRONG.

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1) The gemstone is not low enough for the setter to create beads,   using a 'FLAT' shaped graver. 

2) The next error is that the gemstone was placed at an angle, aka 'crooked'.

                             DRILLING OF THE HOLES!

 1) I always use a round bur to gently create a little recess into the metal. This little recess will prevent the twist drill from running amok all over the curved surface. This is 'preventive maintenance'.

2) Once the little recess has been created, drill a bit deeper but keeping the bur vertical at all times.

3) Now that the holes are suitably drilled in the metal. Ensure that the overall diameter of the stone matches the hole.

4) Use your 'twist drill' to thoroughly drill the hole all the way into the metal.

5) I'll be using a round bur to clear an opening for the stone.

6) This is the best technique for figuring out the Pavilion for the stone. I'll use a Bud-shaped bur to prepare for the setting of the stone. 

The Bud bur MUST BE THE EXACT SIZE OF THE STONE.

                              QUICK REVIEW.

1) Always be watchful that your burs are held in a vertical position while being drilled.

2) Remove all of the remaining slivers of metal around each of the holes. These little slivers of metal ARE NOT WANTED, get rid of them ... NOW! I'd use a pumice wheel to clean the surface.

Final (3rd) price list of jewellery, circa 1976 & 1996. =>10 photos

 In this final three-essay price list, I've included some prices of jewellery-related tools, bench grinders, and hammers. 

 The name "Eaton" is not a fictitious name, as the name was that of the original owner of "Timothy Eaton". This Canada-wide company closed down only a few years ago.

  Cubic Zirconia gemstones were the 'best deal in jewellery'.

 It's interesting to read the 'promotional advertising' from those earlier days. BTW, as this was a Canadian jewellery company, our spelling is slightly different from that in America.

  Many of those designs are not often seen; there was a heavy emphasis on engraving. For example, in #12 'set of rings'.

  Here are the various shapes of hammers that were used in Canada 30 years ago.

 

 I still have this bench grinder of number #6, being shown. I keep it to 'grind and shape' my gravers.

 

 Here are some 'costume jewellery' pieces that even today can be created in gold.

This engagement ring is named a "Flat Top" setting.

Prices of jewellery circa '1990 & 1975' (ver. #2) 10 photos

 I'm aiming for designs & jewellery patterns from 30 to 50 years ago. To list these designs is no easy task, I shall endeavor to make our blog readers smile.

 In those earlier days, 1975, the price of gold was only a mere pittance of what it is today. Gold was selling (U.S.) at $195.00 an ounce; today, it broke through the $3,800.00 level.

Silver was only $4.45 an ounce; it is now at $49.00 per ounce.

(These metal quotations were viewed on "Google" on September 29th. 2025.)

 I will supply MORE photos and prices in the next essay.

 

RETAIL Catalogues from 1976 => 1996 (Ver. #1) 7 photos

This catalogue (on the right) was the epitome of home shopping, circa 1976; it had 698 pages to saunter through. 

 I'm basically looking for jewellery photos with historical value. Some of those designs are still popular even today.

 The most obvious thing that has changed are the prices.

 Some of these (Canadian) catalogues are between 24 & 49 years old, and many are still in excellent reading condition. 

 In version #2 of this two-part essay, I'll be including jewellery prices of the very popular Cubic Zirconia, as well as Diamonds. Catalogues were very popular decades before the Internet came into existence.

 In my search for these items, if I come across jewellery-related machines, I'll post them as well. (but no promises).

WAX TO METAL (spacing of holes) => 7 photos

 In this essay are the 'rudimentary techniques' in spacing for drilling the holes for setting gemstones. This process is very useful and should be explained; there are no shortcuts in this process.

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     How were these holes drilled with such precision?

 It's easier to 'realign the holes' in wax than in the metal, as there won't be any soldering required if a mistake occurs.

 When the holes are to be drilled in the wax. There shouldn't be any wax residue remaining around or in the holes.

                          SPACING IN A METAL RING 

  There is one serious error. Can you figure out just where it is?

  

  The major error is that the gemstone that is nearest to the centre stone is too close to the claw settings.

 When the hole is fully drilled, the circumference of the stone will be too close to create any Pave' setting.

 The 'inside spacing' seemed good, but the '3 holes' are not acceptable. WHY?

   Together as a unit, I moved the '3 stones' further away from the claw setting. This is before any drilling was to commence.

 I scribed a faint line on the surface of the ring. These lines will be where the Culet of the stones will be situated.

 

 How much space is required? The rule is that 'the minimum distance must be one third of the width of the gemstone'. That distance allows for the raising of the beads in Pave' Setting.

 If there are 2 or 3 sizes of gemstones, the largest stone should be adjacent to the claws. The result is a 'nice tapering effect'. Always measure the stones before any drilling is initiated.

  When drilling individual holes, it is very important to maintain an even space in between all of the stones.