(NEW) "Creating a Channel Setting" project - 16 photos

 What was a jewellers-stone setters life like before 'CAD' aka "Computer Aided Designing". This essay will explore the Basic & Intermediate techniques (not tricks) that are still involved. 

Not every jeweller has access to "CAD", let's start creating a Channel Setting.

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Using a pair of dividers measure the length of the selected stones. This will be the main number to work with in creating the size of the opening in the metal.

  That 'number' will be transferred into the metal. The opening can be made longer, but not reduced, as the stone lengths have a measurement that cannot be changed.

 It is advisable to find a 'centre line' of the setting and scribe that line onto the surface of the ring. With a 'separating disk' cut an opening into the metal, (sorry for not showing this).

 With a large bud-shaped bur, place the bur into the lower cavity and this will allow the Culet of the stones to be set.

 

 All of the bur-drilling must be held in a vertical position, that is not having the burs slanted, if so the line of opening will be longer than needed.

 

  In this photo, you can see how the opening is progressing.

 

  At this point, you can see that a small round bur is 'preparing a seat' for the group of stones.

 

 I suggest at this step that a "Separating Disk" is now cut into the 'long hole', as this will be for the Pavillion area of setting for the stones.

 Inside of this hole is important as I would like to have a 'clean and polished' area. This is the light that will shine through a near-transparent stone. The smoother area will reflect better than to have a dull finish. Another point is that all of the shards of 'extra' casted metal will be easily removed.

 

 Where the new 'bearing, or seat' was created, any two stones can now be placed into the ring very GENTLY.

  With your "Reciprocating Hammer" you can now, and only now start the 'Hammering and Securing 'process.

 NOTE: Never allow the hammer tip to touch the stones or have the anvil push the metal 'down' onto the metal. What you are doing is to 'move the metal' over the "Table Facet" of the stones, but never pound the metal flat.

 We need the 'thickness of the metal' to be able to file afterwards.

 

 Here is another ring angle, but still the same as the above photo.

 

 Place all of the 'selected stones' into the metal then start the hammering  VERY GENTLE.

 Remember that 'we' are moving the metal but not pounding the metal, agree?

 The square stone on the right has been damaged from the previous stone setting. The reason is that under the 'hammering processes' this damaged corner will become more fractured and not be used.

 This is where the metal has been 'moved' over Table Facets. The remaining edge is where the "Triangular File" of #4 cut will gently trim the metal at an angle of (estimated) 45 degrees.

 You have now two choices of 'trimming' the metal; either with a Flat graver or using your file. I suggest to the beginner, kindly use your Triangular File instead to do the trimming. 

 If you hammer the metal very FLAT you wouldn't have any sort of metal to trim.

 When the 'filing and trimming' has been finished you may now use your Pumice Wheel of #180 grit followed by another Pumice (Polishing) Wheel of #1,000 grit. 

This alone will save you from using your Cloth Polishing wheel that could ruin the 'high finish' that you've just now created.

 In closing to this Channel Setting essay, I would modify the end Channel Setting by cutting a semi-circle at the very end of the opening. This should be AFTER the cleaning has taken place, but never during.