Pumice wheel cleaning & sharpening => 10 photos

  I know that many of the jewellers and stone-setters use Tapered and Flat surface pumice wheels as I do. But the question is how do we reshape them when needed?

 I have a Carborundum piece of stone on my bench for this sole purpose. The sharp edges act 'like a knife' that will literally cut into the soft wheel.

 There are minute corners of this stone that serve the purpose of reshaping the wheel. No matter if the wheel is #180, #240 or #1,200 grit, the cutting is sufficient for the reshaping process.

  I try not to use a Triangular file of #4 grit to remove any extra slivers or remnants from casting. I will use the pumice wheel instead, thus leading to resharpen the pumice wheel constantly.

 These pumice wheels leave no striations on the metal, as many files will do. So why use the files?

 This sharpening process is fantastic for Tapered as well as Flat surface wheels. 

 

 Here in this 'before and after' photo shows the where the cleaning took place. This cleaning action saves buying newer pumice wheels all the time.

   It is imperative to keep your wheels in a pristine condition all of the time. You just never know when it will be needed.

 I sharpened and resurfaced my pumice wheels continually. 

 This 'reshaping & cleaning' can be done on any pumice wheel shape no matter what the grit is, just do it!

 I'm using a 'Tapered' Pumice wheel of #180 grit. This wheel gets into areas where a file will surely leave file marks.

"Inside, Ring Clamp" => 5 photos

 This particular "Inside, Ring Clamp" has been in my possession for at least 24+ years. There are interesting improvements but suffice it to say, it is my very close friend'. As you can see it has been used extensively.

I use this clamp as it fits into my hand, but not against it.

 This clamp will never change position while it's being used, this is so very important in Diamond Setting. When it is screwed on tight, it is on so very tight!

I would personally use this clamp over any wooden clamp or large screw metal clamp. The large side screw interferes with the setter's (my) hand & fingers. Poor design!!!

 YES, there are many improvements with the GRS type of jewellery tools. But this 'inside clamp' needs no modification. My motto is "If it ain't broken, don't fix it".

There are 10 ring-sized inserts, all it takes is to unscrew any insert to accept the ring of your choice.

 

  As I wrote, there are 10 inserts to hold the ring of your choice. The chosen clamp must GENTLY rest in your hand, if not, your labours will surely suffer for it.

 This 'screw locking system' is what makes this clamp so important. Other clamps are made of very metal and just don't have the hand flexibility when doing intricate Diamond Settings.

 I won't say which system is best for you, but this clamp continues to be what I enjoy using.

Defective "Reciprocating Hammer" Anvils => 8 photos

 Of all kinds of errors any setter can make is to forget the most important tool and that is the "Reciprocating Hammer Anvil". 

These little 'darling' anvils can be an enemy if they are neglected.

 This particular anvil being shown needs to be refurbished, why? The four points are damaged beyond repair. But they can be easily repaired by reshaping the leading edge with an Emery Wheel of Medium grit (not a file).

 If the anvil is beyond repair, just replace it. NEVER USE IT if it's badly worn.

 

 When it is time to repair it, just hold it in the ring clamp of your choice and resurface the 'top, four corners and side edges'. DONE!

 When you see that some of the corners are 'broken off'...STOP!!! Immediately remove the anvil and repair it. For the few dollars, this simple action will be a life-saver to you while it is being used.

 This is the simpler way of repairing the "Reciprocating Anvil". All I use is an "Emery, Snap-On Wheel" of Medium grit and here is the technique or process.

 What I have been doing in the past is to colour the broken

areas with "RED INK". These are the 'damaged areas' and this indicates the offending areas that need to be fixed.

 This is a major broken anvil there are four corners, the top of the anvil surface, plus the sides. 

 This cleaning process will only take a few minutes, but you've learned how to do it again with much care.

 These four corners are not only for the shape, but many times the setter will use them for 'selected areas for hammering'.

 

(Preliminary) 3-Stone Bezel Setting => 10 photos

 This is a demonstration of how a '3 Bezel ring configuration' is used in setting 3 stones 'side-by-side'. There are many rules to follow 'before, during and after' in the setting processes. (I like to make your lives made easier with ultra-close photographs, instead of using long-list of words).

 I'm using a "156C, High-Speed Steel" bur to do my aggressive metal cutting. A "156C , (Carbide)" bur has the teeth so close together that the teeth just slide inside the 3 bezels. 

 In this photograph, you can see where the teeth are aligning themselves inside the bezel.

 Please keep the 156 HSS bur held in a 'near-vertical' position. The stone will then follow the angles created inside the Bezel wall.

 For the Lower Pavilion area of the stone, have this area 'cleared and opened' fully to allow the stone to be set.

 Where the three bezels are connected, immediately remove any 'extra' metal before moving ahead. I suggest using a large bud-shaped bur to do the 'metal removal'.

 I would be aggressive in this process and cut deep as these 3 bezels must not be joining as seen in this photo. The joining of the three bezels will be done after the stones are set, but not now!

 You can see that the deep extraction of metal is being done where the Lower Pavillion Facets are situated.

  This piece of metal MUST BE REMOVED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. This is the preliminary work in the 'before' stages of preparation. This is so important and don't avoid this step after the stones are set.

  I would use a very large bud-shaped bur excavate the metal and holding the bur in a perpendicular position. Never do this 'cleaning' when the bur is on an angle, as the stone will follow the angles used by the bur.

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 As 'we' are nearly completing the initial stages of cleaning, always remember that the stone will follow any or all of the angles cut by the burs.

 In this situation allow the bur to 'CUT DEEP', don't be too gentle in the cleaning.

 When you are examining the 'spacing of the three stones' please be aware of the girdles and don't have any of the three stones overlap.

 I prefer to have a little space between all three. This will be explained in the next essay during the 'hammering processes'.

 From a top view, you can see that there is a little space in between the stones, I need this spacing and it is imperative in this joining of the 3 stones. When the centre stone is hammered, the vibration will surely move the side stones enough to damage the stones.  

POOR "4-claw setting" techniques => 9 diagrams

 These two diagrams explain "How the 4-Claw Setting" should look as these two diagrams are self-explanatory. 

The following 7 diagrams also let you know how they MUST NEVER BE SET.

 The Claw tips and Pavilion Facets are correctly molded to the claws. Under closer examination, there are no spaces anywhere near the stone. Fantastic stone-setting techniques are being used.

  

 The bearing-cuts are hollow and the claws will not hold the stone in place. The bottom of the bearing grooves are literally digging into the Pavilion facets.

 The Girdle Facet is not anywhere close to the holding groove, why is this?

 On the sides of the 4 claws are marks caused by poorly finished settings from the tools being used. The claw tips are not fully touching the stone. This will cause clothing to get caught and tear away the claw. God Bye expensive diamond.

 When there is a break in the metal, the whole claw tip will fall away and cause the stone to get loose.

 The claw looks nice, but it isn't even touching the stone. As of now, there is no security in the stone being set. This is another chance for clothing to get caught, poor stone setting. 

 Just 'where and how' is the stone being held into place, it is like the stone is just 'floating' in mid-air.

 The claw metal is too thin for any long-term usage. What is the immediate remedy? I suggest having a new head soldered into place and 'not to mess with re-tipping'.

 

Errors in checking DIAMONDS in a Channel Setting => (17 drawings)

This is what a completed diamond ring 'should' look like.

 When the jeweller is expanding the ring, it is safer to rotate it, otherwise it will become slightly oval in its overall shape. 

 On your 'rotating mandrel' this is what 'could and would' happen if the ring has not been rotated continually.

 There must not be any spaces between the stone and the metal on the 'Channel' bars. If there is, then the stone will never get tight.

The 'stone tightening tool' must be the same width as the Channel Bar. If the tool-tip is wider then it will touch the gemstone. Then the results will not not be favourable and could be difficult to repair.

 If there are any areas of the ring that need to made be symmetrical, please repair the ring immediately.

 Tool marks from any tightening need to be repaired and not left for the customer to see them.

  The editor of these diagrams (not me) thought that squeezing the stone to see if that stone was loose was a good idea.

 I don't know where the editor learned this technique from, but never DON'T DO THIS. There are many chances of breaking the Girdle of the stone. 

 

 Check that all of the measurements are what the customer wishes. 

 When you are checking the validity of the shape or just holding the ring, it is incumbent upon yourself to keep the ring ROUND. Just keep it secured on your ring mandrel.

 These marks leave much to be desired of the jeweller who was attempting to repair the ring. Why were there any 'marks' remaining on the Channel bars? I have some real choice words of the qualifications of the jewellers training.

 If any stones were loose, as I previously stated, don't use this technique. The easiest method of tightening any loose stone is to hammer GENTLY on the top of the Channel bars. 

At this point, do an overall 'quality control' inspection.

 What tools were used in finishing the Channel Setting? If there are any abrasive cleaning tools please be advised that there must not be any 'tool marks' remaining anywhere on the ring. 

 This is my first choice in tightening any loose gemstone. There must not be any spaces remaining in the 'bearing grooves'. GENTLY TAP THE CHANNEL BAR as this will prevent any stone from moving.

 DON'T TAP THE STONE TO MAKE IT TIGHT. Always keep the stone lying flat and not sitting crooked.

 I must repeat, THIS IS NOT THE SAFEST METHOD OF CHECKING FOR ANY LOOSE STONES.