"Positioning Techniques" in setting a "Brilliant-Cut" stone in a "4, or a "6 Claw setting".

 To review this basic technique of a "4-Claw-Prong Setting", here are some interesting facts for you.

 These diagrams were designed by "Bradney Simon" of the "Bench" magazine some years ago. The age of his diagrams are not the factor, but "it's the technique that surely lives on". 

 When the 156C (Carbide) bur or even the High Speed Steel (aka HSS) bur. The angle of the shaft of the bur must held in a position that both sides of the teeth on this bur will do the necessary cutting. These  "cutting teeth" are 'above and below' the widest part of the bur.

 These teeth will cut exactly the angles to the 'facets of the stone'. Please do not hold the bur shaft in a vertical position, hence you will not have the correct angles to the stone.

 In this photograph, you will view where the 4-claws, plus the end "VEE", are now being created.  I used a small bud bur to act as a guide for the cutting-bur. If not, the bur could very easily wrap itself around the claw.

 For your information, the center gem-stone is set too high in the 4-claw head. Being too high tends to leave the stone in a precarious position, on the verge of being leading to a disaster of having the stone getting loose and falling out!

 I find that this diamond is now sitting just at the correct height. How can this be seen? The Culet of the stone is in the center of the 4-claw head. To my eyes, this is the correct height to work with.

 The 4 claws are in a perfect position, as it has the appearance of a "X",  all of the claws are in equal symmetry to each other. I'd call this a great setting pattern.

 The stone is safely secured in the "head", the Culet is well below the 'danger point' of the 4-claw head.

  The stone is not at all too high in the claws, there is little chance of having the stone get loose. This 6-claw head gives more strength than a 4-claw mounting. Look at the Culet and view how it is sitting. The Culet is in the correct position, it's in the center of the 6-claw head. 

  Keeping in mind that you, the setter, must be able to set either a Round or an Oval stone in any 4 claw head. Again, PLEASE place your stone 1/3 DOWN from the top of the claw for secure & accurate positioning of that stone.

 Again, here is the same photo. The Pavillion is too high from the "Basket" of the 4 claw setting. I'd be too nervous in having my client wear this "Stone & Ring continually. If one or two of the claws that could move and "Good-Bye" diamond.

 This spectacular view shows how this diamond is going to be worn, with no harm coming to the stone. 

 Observe just where the Culet is now positioned, right in the center of the head.

  Woops, this diamond is just a tad "off-center". The Culet is not in the center, I'd have you examine the Culet with your 10x power Loupe.

 With a bit of humour of "HI" on the end of this screw-type of ring holder. I had no other way in setting the small Emerald. I didn't use any common looking beads, but I used a Flat graver and made 4 little hooks and secured the stone with no sharp edges. 

  The stone MUST BE SET EXACTLY 1/3rd from the top of the claw, this is the positioning that's being used that will enable a perfect setting of the Diamond.