"Three ROUND Bezels in ONE ring?" (54 photos)

 This is not a miss-spelling, it's fair to say that I've created a novel way of showing you just how interesting Multiple-Bezels can get.

 In my previous essay, I explained how ONE ROUND Bezel is formed & set, now multiply this same procedure by 3. 

 Firstly, lay the three stones on the top of the empty bezels. If you can see metal all around the stones, you are free to start this process.

 This is the finished 3-stone setting, nice isn't it?

 This essay is more involved with the "Gem-Setting" process, than the HSS bur drilling. You can see how & where the HSS bur made contact with the Bezels.

 Examine where the bearings are located. They should be located just where the girdle of the stone must be, not too high in the Bezel setting.

 Just at the desired height, use your round bur and drill out a groove where the girdle must be.

 Examine all around where the round-bur coring out has taken place.  How far into the metal? This is very easy. I'd like to have the round bur to be 1/2 depth of the bur head into the metal.

 How large should the bur be? I'm a very "Visual' person. The bur thickness must be 50% wider that the girdle of the stone.

Measure each stone width, why? Not all stones will be the same width. If there are three stones, select the widest stone for the center.

 NEVER GUESS THE SIZES, always examine every step as you continue your setting.

  If for any reason that the 'opening' is not sufficient, PLEASE use your thick "Opening" tool and ream it open more. You need as much metal as you can get those stones into the metal. THIS IS SO-O IMPORTANT.

 

 Always select your largest stone for the center bezel, (even if it's 1/2 mm larger), do this procedure at all times.

 I'm using my Reciprocating Hammer for this style of setting. Your hand-held hammer might just touch the other stones and "GOOD-BYE".

 Rule number 1. Always keep the three stones as close to each other as possible. There must be no spaces in between any of the three stones.

 Have your hammer-head hitting at 45-degree angle from being vertical.

 

 Examine to see that all three hammer-contacts are well over the girdles of the stones. 

Here is another view on how this hammer-contacts should look like.

 There should be no spaces anywhere, if this is the case, attempt to remedy this by hitting that "open" area. 

 Get that metal down as close as you can to the three open spaces.

 Please don't use your hand-held hammer, if you do, the chances of breaking a stone is 100% guaranteed. YOU ARE WORKING ON A VERY CLOSE AREA. 

By the way, all "Swarovski, Cubic Zirconia" have their name lasered on the Table of each stone.

 Use your Onglette #2 graver and Bright-Cut all around the inside of three Bezels. 

 This cleaning must be done and finished, BEFORE you use any Pumice Wheels or filing.

 

 Isn't this looking decent and clean?

 

  On the outside of the three Bezels you MUST use your "Triangular & Pillar" files and smooth out the hammer hitting spots. Polishing comes much later in this setting-process.

 

 Your filing must be at a 45degree angle at all times.

  

 Don't let your filing get too close to the setting of the Bezels.

 

 Here are my files, either #2 or a #4 grit is required.

 This screw-type, ring-clamp holds the ring in place always at 100% of the time. I make my ring held into place so very TIGHT.

 This ring is starting to look DECENT and clean for polishing with your cloth polishing buffs.

"FEAST YOUR EYES ON THIS GEORGOUS RING"...😅

 Here is my Onglette, #2 graver being prepared for the Bright-Cutting. I'm initially using #400 polishing paper.

 Following the #400 (light-Emery) paper, I'd use the #800 polishing paper.

 For the very tip of the graver, I removed the sharp point and made it that I couldn't damage the stone as I'm cutting into the metal around the Bezel frame.

 During this cleaning process, you can see just how the shards of metal is being removed from inside the bezel frame. Anything less that this cleaning is not acceptable to me. This alone takes many years of training, it's taken me only 60 YEARS to achieve this high level of gem-setting dexterity.

 This is on a "Scale of 10 of Difficulty, this is a definite 25" (nothing less). There are too many chances to mess-up, trust me!

 You, and the eventual owner, will be so pleased in wearing this ring.