This tutorial essay is just that: it explains the rudimentary steps before Bright Cutting. The very first thing that must be done is to select the same size and colour of the gemstones. There must be no deviation anywhere.
In using your Onglet graver of #1 width, cut out a preliminary pattern in the metal of your choice.
This exercise is using only a '2-3 bead' configuration.
If you are totally satisfied with the initial layout, proceed further.
In using your Onglet graver #2, proceed to recut the pattern. But this time, cutting deeper once again.
If you are well-versed in using a Flat graver, I'd suggest a narrow Flat graver #39. The angled metal, as shown, is actually a small area; a #40 graver seems to be a tad too wide.
A selection of beads that you are going to be using should be close at hand. These burs are your 'friends', keep them near you.
Recut this pattern often and recut DEEPER. You need this to facilitate all of your metal cutting. A 'shallow pattern' will give you many problems in trying to get your Bright-Cutting done.
I suggest recutting this pattern, each time deeper with your Onglet graver #1.
At this point, use your Flat graver and cut at an angle of 45degrees. These angled cuts should be done before any stone is set.
This will give you a satisfying result in your ring.
If you have any larger stones, keep them together and place them away from the smaller stones.
DO NOT USE ANY 'BRIGHT-CUTTING' (to enhance the metal) ONCE THE STONES HAVE BEEN SET.
I would enhance any area that is difficult to polish by simply "Bright-Cutting" where you think it would look appropriate.
In closing, this pattern needs very deep engraving. Don't be shy in not cutting your pattern often. You need strong beads that will secure your Ruby stones.
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