This short essay is only about 'drilling holes in metal'. I've seen many errors with this process during my 25 years of travelling. I'll explain them as I proceed with my future writings.
This very first question is how to resurface a twist drill? This drill MUST BE SHARP as it must cut into the metal but not slide around.
The best process of reshaping the twist drill is to use your "Emery, Rotating Wheel" of a "Medium" grit and hold it on an angle of 45 degrees (as shown here).
1) The desired cutting angle has already been created and all that you are doing is to resurface but NEVER CREATE NEWER ANGLES.
This is exactly where some errors occur.
2) The angled point of the Onglette #2 graver, is the only tool that creates beads that will eventually be against edge the Girdle of the gemstone.
.JPG)
When you are for the first time initiating the drill, PLEASE KEEP THE TWIST DRILL AT A VERTICAL (90degree angle) POSITION.
.JPG)
3) NEVER ATTEMPT TO DRILL AT AN ANGLE!! KEEP THE DRILL VERY WELL LUBRICATED AND NEVER ROTATE AT A FAST SPEED. (Speed ruins your work)!!!
4) When you are drilling, always drill with a series of cuts.
5) Keep the twist drill very well lubricated, if not the twist drill will easily overheat.
6) In using the 'power punching' devise make sure that the recess is deep into the metal and not just 'scratching the surface' This is exactly where the twist drill will be doing its work.
PREPARATION OF 'DRILLING THE HOLES' (IN REVERSE ORDER)
It is best to prepare a light recess in preparing the hole, this is because the Twist Drill won't wander around the metal.
7) It is advisable to have the "power punch, tip" sharpened to a point. If this is not done, the power punching hole will not be successful in creating a recess for drilling.
From this little 'recess', the Twist Drill will start its work in creating the hole that is essential in preparing for gemstone setting.
No comments:
Post a Comment