How do you 'resurface' the face of your hammer? (essay #1 of 2) => 12 photos

 The most unseen tool on your bench is the face of your hammer. When was the last time you looked at the face of your "Bezel-Setting Hammer"? Was it weeks or months ago?

 I have a 'few photos' of what two of them look like. I'll show you how to repair them with little effort. Every indentation on the hammer face will be immediately transferred to the Bezel Setting. Therefore, WE NEED 100% ABSOLUTELY CLEAN TOOLS.

 The drafting pencil lead must be 'soft to the touch', as the lead must be 'pushed' into the pores of the paper. This enhanced polishing paper will give you increased smoothness that is not available from tool suppliers. YOU MUST MODIFY THE PAPERS TO GIVE YOU EXTRA POWER IN YOUR POLISHING.

The face of the hammer has to be 'refurbished' continually, not once in a while! (Smooth) Polishing paper won't clean the steel surface; it will only enhance the major defects.

This is an epitome of a defective hammer face that needs to be repaired, NOW.

 WHAT ARE THE 'SERIES OF PAPERS' USED TO REPAIR THE HAMMER FACE?

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 These are the sequence of "Emery & Polishing" papers that will greatly assist you in this delicate process.

 Keeping this regimen of papers in sequence is essential in any refurbishing process. Don't try a shortcut to avoid any paper polishing, as the steel needs to be 'repaired'.

 A soft-core pencil will allow the paper to be given extra cleaning power. This will give the paper of #800 grit to be #900, if one of your available papers is not available.

This refurbished Riveting or Bezel Hammer is now ready for many weeks of hard-hitting work.

 This 'nearly acceptable' hammer face still needs to be well monitored, as these marks could leave additional defects on the Bezel Frame.

 This hammer face is not acceptable under normal conditions. These deep gouges will be transferred to the bezel in a way that could damage the entire bezel frame. 

 Upon examining the 'partially cleaned hammer face', defects still remain on the surface. Basically, GET RID OF THEM NOW before deciding to use your hammer again.

 As this hammer face has been thoroughly repaired, and your inspection has been approved. You can NOW START BEZEL SETTING once again. 

 This 'cleaning process' is not learned in one day, but it would improve your Bezel Setting.

Why sharpen a graver on an oilstone? => 10 photos

 The most basic and least expensive technique for refurbishing the cutting surface is on an oilstone. There is 'no rhyme or reason' for buying a costly desktop machine to do this sharpening. 

 In Canadian funds, the costs are astronomical at $3,350.00 or a lower price of $1,450.00. (I never display the tool suppliers' names.)

 There is a possible way that your eyes should not get too close to the fast-rotating wheel.

THE SERIOUS PROBLEM IS THAT MINUTE SHARDS OF METAL FROM THE ROTATING BLADE COULD IMPACT YOUR EYES. 

The speed rheostat just doesn't let you to get too close to the cleaning of the graver. The whole mechanism also interferes with your arms and hands. 

 The engraving blade will have very limited contact with the rotating wheel. There must be a constant supply of a lubricant to keep the blade cool. If there is a power outage, OR THE MACHINE IS AT FAULT, does that mean that you can't resurface your blades?

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 On an oilstone, the blade can be sharpened by applying pressure along the surface of this 8-inch stone.

The retail price for this oilstone costs only $35.00 (plus taxes).

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The graver MUST BE HELD AT APROXIMATELY 45 DEGREES.

This angle will give the face of the graver the correct cutting angle, as well.

 Remember to keep the oilstone 'well lubricated'. With the technique of holding the graver, you can get as close as necessary. Now compare the limited 'closeness to this oilstone' as to the rotating wheel.

 How often would I use this oilstone? I wore deep gouges into the stone, and it had to be discarded from years of continual use. 

  The proximity is about 6 inches from my face to the stone. Careful examination of the 'graver shaping & grinding' process is essential.

 Examine the angle of the graver to the oilstone. Can you see the 45degree angle?

Here you can see just easy it is to move the oilstone without any mobility problems

Why is this "TUTORIAL BLOG" important?

 Since the second week of April in 2018, I've been writing tutorial essays into "OUR" blog. This information has been given to everyone FREE OF CHARGE. Consider this my 'gift' to the jewellery community.

 I have been a DIAMOND SETTER for the past 66 years. Instead of travelling to schools and small groups of students, I decided to create a blog, and in each essay, there can be as many as 15 photos to display. The photographic library now exceeds (estimated) 10,500 pictures throughout this extensive blog.

 As of January 2026, I've written 800 essays that have been seen in 126 countries. The total readership is now at 274,876 jewellers. Along with these essays are 45 videos. (I still have an additional 15 more videos waiting to be posted).

 The number of topics is vast, as I aim to document them for posterity and share with the next generation what Diamond Setting is like. I avoid discussing CAD (Computer-Assisted Designing) as when I started my apprenticeship (circa 1960), this technique was not known. Every ring was duplicated by hand.

Here are my tutorial essays that appear in this blog:

1) How to grind a graver?

2) What is "Fish Tail" setting?

3) How to do "Channel Setting"?

4) Channel Setting with Genuine Emeralds.

5) How to use Polishing Papers?

6) What is "Princess Setting"?

7) How to set stones in wax?

8) How to set Cabochon Stones with a 1/2 round bur?

9) How to do a Flush, or Gypsy Setting?

10 How to set Baguettes in an 'End Bezel'?

11) How to set Diamonds in a 4-Claw configuration?

When has a graver completed its 'metal cutting life'? => 7 photos

 We've tackled all kinds of problems with gravers. The next very important question is when to say "ENOUGH, it's time to throw away this little blade". Stop, we can still use our "adjustable handle" to get more use out of it.

 To the average craftperson, some of these 16 gravers could be thrown away. But not on my bench. My aim is to get as much 'life' out of each blade as possible.

 This 'adjustable' handle is the secret to the longevity of a small blade.

 Inside this wooden handle is the secret to keeping this small blade still active.

 Many diamond setters would take this little blade and quickly dispose of it in seconds. WHY?

 As long as the bottom of this FLAT graver is clean and well-maintained, it still has many months of use remaining.

 I use a protective 'thumb-guard' to wrap my fingers around the tip of this little blade.

 From the length of a new blade on the left of this photo, there are many well-used blades. Size has no reason to discard any of these gravers.

Here are the results of 'FLAT graver' cutting => 10 photos

 Here are some interesting results of using the Flat graver.

In my vast inventory of gravers, I lean heavily towards the #40 size of blade.

 Although this photo shows how rusty these blades can get. As long as the bottom edge can be cut cleanly, there is little concern about its overall appearance.

 I initially started to cut with an Onglet graver. As I was preparing to cut a serious line for my FLAT graver.

Any cutting for a FLAT graver must be thought ahead of time. There are three words: "WHEN, WHERE, HOW." 

 The graver must follow certain routes in metal. The graver MUST ALWAYS BE 100% HIGHLY POLISHED.

 

This diagram explains the exact result of each contour in the metal. This is 'not a game of chance'. Every series of cuts must be well coordinated and planned well ahead of time.

 Here, you can nicely see just how a simple line cutting will result when finished. I, with a touch of (English) humour, make every FLAT GRAVER LINE shine like the "Hubble Telescope". 

 Every Onglet 'graver line' has to be well prepared with much clarity. With this engraving, there is no second chance. I will just sit back and prepare a picture in my mind as to where each cut will be made.

 My engraving tools must be kept in pristine condition 100% of the time.

 With a highly polished graver, these cuts will be like a mirror in metal. In this one photo, you can see two steps of finishing the 'inverted V'. Every cut must be like an artist sculpting in metal.

  I will plan many steps ahead and THINK, our tools are the 'paint brushes'. Mistakes never enter our minds.

 Every line MUST BE A WELL COORDINATED SERIES OF CUTS, AND THERE MUST NEVER BE ANY 'FACETING' IN THESE CUTS. The angles must never differ from one to the other.

  I 'found' this diagram on the internet, as it displays the cutting widths of some of the Flat gravers. My Flat graver has a width, unfortunately, not in this diagram, pity.

Do you use a "FLAT" SHAPED GRAVER? => 14 photos

This FLAT GRAVER is a well-used metal cutting tool. It has been shaped to cut into the most delicate areas.

 

  There are many shapes of gravers; we will be dealing only with the 'Flat Shape' in this essay.

 Many stone setters will prefer a short & wide blade. I prefer the shape as seen in the first photo. 

 These blades, as shown in these photos, are completely without any form and can eventually be used for stone setting.

  As you see, this graver (made by another manufacturer) is also 'HSS'. All that remains is to use your 'bench grinder' and shape the front of the blade.

There is much interesting information embossed on the blade.

1. "HSS" is the tensile strength of the steel.

2. "Swiss Made" means where the graver was produced.

3. "N 4" refers to the width and its numerical size.

4. "Vallorbe" refers to the municipality in Switzerland.

5. "Glardon" was the original owner in 1898.

 All gravers that are manufactured these days are 'HSS', which means that they are created to last for many months. The 'HSS' means that the steel blade has been modified to be of "High Speed Steel". The #2/0 & #4 refer to the width of the blade.

 Here are a few common designs of blades. My preferences are the commonly used Onglette & Flat. The Knife, Round and Bevel are mainly used in engraving designs in metal.

 You can see on the bottom blade, the jeweller, or stone setter, shaped the graver blade to their exacting proportions. He did his 'graver shaping' on the bench grinder.

  Here is my favourite handle that holds securely any graver with two screws. One screw might get badly worn that will render the device useless. I always buy a 'two-screw' handle, as shown here.

 Any Flat graver will be instrumental in any decorative metal cutting.

 Here are some examples of metal cutting that both the Onglette and Flat gravers can achieve in unison.

 

 One side of this heart pendant was carved with the Onglette, while the right side was finished with a Flat graver.

                                 

 This particular information on the side of this Flat graver tool refers only to the company name and the specific size of the blade.