Diamond Setting Techniques taken from my archives. 55 photos

  I avoid using the often-used word, "tricks". I prefer to use the correct terminology "techniques", which they really are. 

 While exploring my often used archives, I found 19 very interesting topics for you to explore (again). They might have been seen previously in my blog-topics, they just never seem to get outdated.

 BTW, since the writing of my essays, I've cancelled my posted "1-855" telephone number. I would prefer if you could use my email address, "gerrylewy18@gmail.com"

 The text of these essays are in small form of printing, why is this? These were all reprints, if they were any larger, the printing would have been blurred.  

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 Here is a "Half-Bezel Setting" it might appear to be thin, but under extreme scrutiny, there is ample amount of metal holding the precious diamond.

 The lower photo of the heart-shaped pendant was held into place on a Shellac stick. All of the graver cutting was done prior to the stone-setting.

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 You can see in this photo that I'm only using the edge of the hammer-anvil. The anvil is literally 'pushing' the metal 'towards' the fragile diamond, but NOT DOWN ON IT. If it was hammered,  the metal would be flattened & be totally compressed, this is the time to Bright-Cut around the rim of the stone.

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 This is the view of mostly all of my "half-round burs". In the inverted position (flat side down) you can easily create a seat, or a bearing for any of your Cabochon stones. Great idea?

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  When I am wax-setting any diamonds, I made a concerted effort to leave a space in between the stones, why is this?

 Here is my answer, any intense vibration due to the casting. The vibrations will easily shatter the gemstones on either side and of course, cause costly damage to the diamonds.