Thursday 19 April 2018

Antique & Arte-Deco, Diamond Setting!

 As we have now "CAD" (Computer Aided Designing) "Setting Stones in Wax" & "Laser Welding", we will continually create new technology in being able to set Diamonds. But I'm from a recent era where "Bright-Cutting" was all done by hand. Even the flex-shaft was only a recent invention. Circa 1940's, or 82 years ago!
 When I had my own office, I had two cameras all within hands reach & many of my 'archived' photographs were taken during those fantastic years! On some interesting days, my clients asked me to remove all of the diamonds so they could refine the metal for a few dollars. Before they were removed, I photographed them all at every conceivable angle, just to keep those hard-labours seen and appreciated.  Some of these might be duplicated, but these are best under different lighting.
 To appreciate & capture our past, I wanted to take as many of the photo's as I could. These interesting photographs are in no sequential order, but capturing the simplest of tasks from the jeweller, is almost unknown today.
 Can you imagine that to set 33 diamonds and all of the stones were not fully round (Mein-Cut or Rose-Cut) & some of them actually had little corners on them. (The "girdling processes" was not as up to date as they are today). Each hole had to be literally carved to the shape of each stone & all of this was done by one graver (as shown) my teacher gave me his graver it called a "Bull Stick".


 One Eternity ring with those 33 stones took almost 2 days from the first stone, to the very last.
I know this information for a fact, as my teacher was working in those days and there were no burs to speak of to help him set stones in Pave, or Bright-Cutting designs. We have come a long way since then, but I have the photographs to show you how the jeweller created his fine quality jewellery....just simply amazing shots!!! Hope you enjoy them, as I do still now!













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