Do you use the Metric system? 12 photos.

  How accurate is the metric measuring system? In using the metric method, the weights & length are gauged in hundreds or thousands of a unit.

 No longer are we using 'pints, quarts, or ounces'; we use (in Canada) a more accurate system of measuring liquids.

 

These gemstones are actually .025mm's.

 

 The bigger 3 diamonds are 0.5 mm EACH. 

 This smaller stone is now 0.0125 mms in diameter; it is no longer a "1/2 point" in size.

        "Metric and Decimal" calculations in jewellery are more detailed and precise".

   In weighing wax patterns, there is a difference; the weighing system is calculated with 0.01 decimals, as shown below.

 When you are calculating metal casting costs, accuracy is essential. Some newer scales will now show 0.001 of a gram.

 

 Some casters will say that this example of a wax is 2 grams in weight. But for more accuracy, it is 1.97 grams.

 (I use a very accurate pricing system named www.dentritics.com.)

This horse statue is 'galloping' in at 6.64 grams.

 At 18karat gold in USD at $96.85 an ounce, and silver (925) is $48.60 an ounce. (These quotes are from Oct.31 2025.)

This is why accuracy in the weights is absolutely essential.

 This horse face weighs not 7 grams, but 7.04 grams. At the high price of gold or even silver, accuracy is more essential these days.

 

 This wax is accurate to the 'hundredths' of a gram. With the increase in metals, every increment on the weight scale could mean additional costs being incurred.

Why should you use C.A.D. for your intricate designing? => 13 photos.

  The most exquisite, shaped patterns are usually made by a computer program. There is no possible way that these designs can be executed by 'hand crafting'.

 The individual claw settings could not be designed with such precision in claw height and thickness. The uniform 'cut-out' patterns of these patterns would be difficult to replicate by hand. 

 In my previous essays, I suggested that a 'pre-polishing' technique be used in cleaning your jewellery before stone setting.

 Would you believe that the Azure and Blue Sapphire stone setting was created while this ring was still in the CAD program?

 C.A.D. computer program visualises many possibilities without going into the actual metal casting.

 This wax disk was created while the designer was still thinking about the metal form.

 The designer always plans ahead according to the client's needs.

 There is no possibility that all of the 64 large stone claws can be created equally by hand.

 This casino disk was crafted while it was still in the CAD program. The stone setting was still active in the 'computer program'.

 Modifications can be made easily while the pattern is still in the CAD program.

 For my American friends, I designed the 'stars & stripes'. I requested that the setting be a 'shared claw' arrangement on all of the stone settings.

 Computer carving doesn't always come in metal. Here is a prime example of 'computer wood carving' being used on an upscale clothing store in Toronto, Canada.

 I touched the surface, and it was as smooth as silk.

 With a few computer clicks, the designer can replicate white stones to simulate gemstones.

 In this remarkable CAD program, the designer visualises how diamonds can look once they are set.

 In these two photos, you can now observe the assembly of the bracelet links without any of the usual metal casting.

 While still in the computer program, the designer can alter and make changes within a few seconds. Thus saving hundreds of dollars in metal casting.

 The best part is that the client can change his (or her) mind to meet their own client's wishes. 

Must you always "Pre-Polish" your jewellery & WHY? 14 photos

 This little machine has given me much enjoyment during the past 5 years. It has cleaned many large and delicate jewellery items.

 These little steel pins are what this machine uses in cleaning the jewellery.

 From an extremely large, non-gold item as this tiger's face, anything will get cleaned by these 'tumbling pins'.

 Inside the black coloured plate, a revolving series of magnets rotates the pins at a high speed. This tumbling action keeps the little pins tumbling against each other.

 

  I have just one question: What kinds of jewellery can be cleaned in this machine? Here are just some of them:

 There is no way that a 'cloth, polishing wheel' can polish the intricate areas of these delicate bracelet links.

 Be forewarned that all of these sections of this bracelet should be tumbled before any total assembly.

 This top section of the clasp for this bracelet MUST BE CLEANED & PRE-POLISHED before any stone setting. 

 This way, all of the holes will be cleaned and be ready for setting.

  This large 14 karat gold ring MUST BE TUMBLED before any diamond setting is to start.

  This photo displays the 'before & after' pre-polishing techniques.

 Even before any of the square stones are set, the Magnetic Tumbler must do what is necessary.

 It is best to pre-polish the complete plate 'front and back' before engraving.

 

There is no possible method for cleaning this wedding band if not by Magnetic Tumbling. The cloth wheel cleaning process WILL DESTROY THE CLAWS IN MOMENTS.

  

 Even on this intricate engagement ring, 'Pre-Polishing' is essential and 100% required.

"You are only limited by your imagination!"

I dropped a small diamond, how do I pick it up? 5 photos

"Darn, I dropped a .01 point diamond into my bench. I see it, but how do I get it out?

               =============================

 I've heard this question many times, and the answers cease to amaze me. First of all, don't use a pair of tweezers, as this won't grab such small gemstones as shown below. SQUEEZING THE STONE IS NOT TO BE DONE.

 The only recourse is to buy a 'wax pick up FOB'. The basic price is under $10.00 CDN, but well worth the purchase. You can pinch the tip with your fingers to make it into a finer point for smaller stones.

  In my earlier (1965) days, I used to melt 'finely mixed pieces of charcoal powder with hot candle wax' and mix this combination in my hand. This was an awful and dirty experience, but it got made.

 The whole purpose was not to leave any residue on the stones. These days, we can buy this new wax fob that will last for many months or even years.

 These three stones each measure .02 mm. I have smaller stones to show you...ready?

 The three larger stones measure 2mm; the group of really small stones are only .0122 mm in diameter.

 Here are the mini-sized stones that only a wax fob can 'safely' grip.

 Don't contemplate using any callipers to grab these little stones.

 If your fingers tremble, please use a wax fob instead (PLEASE.)

  REMEMBER THAT THIS $10.00 PURCHASE IN BUYING THE 'WAX FOB' IS THE GREATEST INVESTMENT THAT YOU CAN MAKE FOR YOUR 'ACTIVE BENCH'.

Gerry Lewy: gerrylewy18@gmail.com

What is the least expensive method to polish gravers? => 16 photos

 I'm going to display the most expensive graver polishing machine on the market. I have just no idea why new setters might spend vast amounts of precious money on a machine that costs $2,575.00 (plus shipping & taxes).

 My polishing papers with the wooden sticks cost me EACH an estimated $30.00.

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This rotating disk machine comes with a price of $1,050.00.

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This plastic, 'paper-holding board' is a mere $27.95

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This rotating wheel machine has a price tag of only $1,585.00

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 This rotating table comes with a series of disks and other accessories with a price tag of only $2,575.00.

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 Why would I rub a soft-core drafting pencil into a polishing paper? The main reason is to increase the grit of the paper. It will make the paper of your choice from a grit of #800 to at least #1,100.

 This 'rubbing' will prevent any continual changing of papers. The pencil core will find its way into the pores of the paper.

 The following photos display the different (grit) textures of polishing papers.

  I went to a local hardware store and asked for 'paint stirrer' sticks. These sticks come in lengths of 11.5inches, which is great for the paper polishing sheets. 

 Instead of spending huge amounts of money, each of these gravers was polished on the 'wooden paint sticks'. I needed to maintain an oval shape to the sides of each graver. A flat metal disk will remove that angle.

 This collection of polishing sticks has been serving me well for the past 45 years. One of these sticks was from the year 1977.

 I like the softness of the 'paper on wood', as I won't have any problems with the sensitive 'graver on wooden sticks'. 

 This is a sample of the cost-efficient 'paint stirrer sticks' instead of the expensive rotating metal disk machines shown above.