How are these mini-beads created? =>19 photos

 This is not a computer creation. The Rate of Difficulty is 12, on "The 10 Scale", as this technique needs much practice to be completely proficient at it.

 

WHAT TOOLS DO 'WE' NEED and when?

  There are only two tools (gravers) required for this technique. The most important will be a thin #1 Onglette, along with the secondary tool, which will be a highly polished engraving #2 Onglette.

 

  Under some circumstances, I will use a #40 FLAT graver with a fine cutting point (as shown). The new Onglette blade is shown as well in this photo.

                                   
 What we are aiming for is seen in the photograph seen below. The lateral line will be created with a small round bur. Don't improvise with any other bur.

  There are two cutting lines seen here with a "before & after" view. There is a pattern of 2 lines intersecting each other; these two lines will be where the new beads will be located.

 I added a 'decorative touch' to these lines by running a MILGRAIN wheel over the edges. 

(The blank area is where the beads will be.) The Milgrain effect accentuates the lines that were just created & shaped.

 When these lines were just cut, I preferred to cut my lines again, but this time much DEEPER. 

 This will give me more opportunities to use my Onglette #2 graver, putting more emphasis on a "DEEP" cut. A "casual line" in cutting is not in our vocabulary.

 These three photos display how the hand envelopes the graver & handle.

 There is much emphasis on keeping the lines straight and not curved, as this sometimes occurs naturally.

 I use a specially created Onglette #3 Beading Tool. This blade has a rounded front point. I will dig into the metal just behind each of these mini-pins and subsequently move the bead-claw OVER the Girdle of the stone....but not against it!

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 The line of cutting must remain PRISTINE and should have no contact with any burs.

 This particular process takes many months of practice; consider this technique a skill all by itself. 

 All of the metal carving should be completed at this point; the last step that should be done is to bead-set the gemstones.

  I used a mini-round bur to give each line of cutting a wider line to prepare for more Onglette cutting. 

Once the line has been created, then I'd use my Onglette graver to cut DEEP. Then I'd do this...... AGAIN.

 Here is the round bur actually doing the 'line preparation'. Don't destroy or ruin the inner row of BEADS. Don't use your graver to cut in between the holes.

A graver is meant to cut only a line along the edges of the holes.

 I will use my BUD-BUR to keep my line straight, as a round bur won't give that option. The BUD-BUR will give me a LONG & Deep CUT.

  A narrow BUD bur should cut DEEP that will establish and clean a new row of 'mini beads'.

 Start to use your round bur from the 'lines of cutting' until it reaches the centre section. Thus, exposing a line of newly formed BEADS. Don't let your burs touch the 2 lines of Onglette cutting.

  Those newly formed beads can now be 'Bead Burnished' with no effort. 

 All of the decorative 'beads' should be burnished at this point. When the gemstones are inserted into the holes, the whole process will then be completed. 

 BTW, a gemstone that has been inserted; then and only then can the beads around each hole be used in securing the stone.