Tapered Baguettes are not like setting the usual Round stones. This challenge involves attempting to start the inner shaping of the bezel. The bezel must adhere EXACTLY to the shape of the stone.
There are "Tapered & Straight-sided" stones; each shape has a different set of challenges. However, we need to create the same inner bezel for either stone.
In this photo of the blue stone needs to be trimmed with your Triangular #4 file. This is an essential practice and should never be neglected or avoided.
If the stone is too long for the 'end bezel', what will I do to overcome this predicament? I used a fine pair of pliers and very gently bend the bezel wall as shown here as this is to accommodate the long stone.
To the best of your ability, use your bud-shaped bur and carve the walls with equal and parallel sides.
These faint lines will be the widest opening allowing to have a 'Straight-Sided' baguette to rest against.
Here is the baguette in its 'new home'. The end-bezel walls must always be shaped evenly with your Triangular file #4 grit. Exactly where the corners of the stone will eventually sit is important. You don't want the stone to move sideways. Always clear away any unwanted metal, as shown inside this bezel opening.
Where these two drilled holes are the new resting spot of the corners of the baguette stone. With a round bur that is equivalent to the thickness of the girdle, join these holes together.
Examine the undergirdle of the stone. Don't allow this stone to sit crooked.
This question is quite easy to answer. I constantly use my round bur and drill three holes. These holes will soon be an evenly created groove for the End Girdle of the stone. DON'T LET THIS LINE EXTEND FURTHER THAN WHERE THE STONE WILL BE SITTING.
Here are the three holes that will not be drilled further than the 'end bezel'.
Before the stone is ready for setting, always use your bud-bur to smooth these inner walls.
Here are the three holes that will not be drilled further than the 'end bezel'.
From these three holes, you can now join them carefully with a round bur.
HOW WILL YOU HAMMER THE END BEZEL WALLS?
This is going to be a very delicate process, as breakage will and can easily occur. Don't attempt this on Genuine Emeralds.
Hammer at first just to secure the stone from moving. This 'stone movement' will shatter the stone in microseconds. Gently place the Reciprocating Hammer head at the centre of the end bezel.
The 'hammer hits' is basically moving the bezel metal towards the stone. The hammer must not allow any direct contact with the stone.
I'll suggest using only pumice #240 & #1,000 grit wheels to polish the bezel and surrounding areas. Avoid any thick cloth-polishing wheels as this wheel will 'round' all of the flat surfaces.
Use your pumice wheels everywhere that is possible. Even the slightest metal defect needs to be repaired.
JUST ENJOY THESE PHOTOS and the texts.
When you are soldering the peg for the centre stone, kindly keep the low flame away from any fragile stone. These are Amethyst & Emeralds or any other soft stone on the Mohs' Scale. (My blog just recently listed these in a recent essay.)
You can see here in this great photo the direction the hammer tip is positioned on the bezel tip.
REPEAT: Don't let the hammer tip get too close to the fragile stone.
JUST ENJOY THESE PHOTOS and the texts.
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