How to carve SMOOTH circles in metal? => (NEVER SEEN BEFORE) =>34 photos

 One of the most challenging and interesting metal carvings will be shown in this essay.

 I will be using a FLAT graver for all of this circular cutting. I need to have direct graver cutting. The graver must be in 100% pristine condition at all times.

   This 'faceting' is caused by not applying too much pressure to the metal. The 'shallow width' of the cutting is in response to a narrow Flat graver. I suggest using a #42 wide blade. I sometimes used only a #40, which wasn't wide enough in these circles.

 Once the stone has been inserted, how can it be secured tightly?

 Why is this circle faceted? The simple answer is that when the graver is cutting, it takes about 3-4 cuts to complete the circle. These results are not acceptable.

 Please emphasise continuous metal cutting. Don't carve shallow cuts, as this is what might happen.

 Once the stone has been set, it is advisable not to 'graver cut' again!!!

 This Ruby stone and others should be set lower than the surface of the surrounding metal.

 The modified Onglette graver on the right is the tool that will be used to make little 'wire beads'. These will make little hooks that will secure the stone at the level of the Girdle.

 CORRECTION:

 If the stone is flush with the metal, then the chance of a reasonably sized bead has been greatly diminished. My answer is to lower the stone deeper into the metal.

 The two holes are perfectly carved, but the centre hole is not at all acceptable.

 This flange of metal lets you see how your metal carving is progressing..NICELY!

One 'continuous flow of metal' testifies to your accurate cutting ability & expertise.

 This 'circular metal' carving is not as easy as it looks. In fact, this has taken me many long months of training and extensive control of the Flat graver. WHEW!

 In using this cylindrical felt bur, you can lightly Rouge the inner circle of metal before the gemstone has been set.

 Here are the results after the light polishing.

                           "BEFORE, DURING & AFTER"

I made sure that the spaces in between the three circles are uniform in the spacing.

On all of my dice, I selected many different colours and sizes of gemstones.

 At this juncture, is when I will Rouge the metal. I'll never attempt to 'touch' the metal carving again.

 You can now see the little 'wire beads' holding each stone at 3-4 points.

 This is just a mediocre attempt at carving. "Mistakes & errors do & will occur." As this was just a sample, I will scrap this item!!!

 I 'saved' this dice from being melted. Why? The walls of the hole are not symmetrical and needed some additional cutting with my wide Flat graver.

  The next few photos of the dice are just not acceptable.

GOODBYE!

   Sorry, STILL NOT ACCEPTABLE!!!!

 These are the dimensions of the Onglette graver that I used here and on other projects.

 This is the clean cutting for a "Flush" setting. You notice how CLEAN the cutting is, as there is no 'facetting' anywhere.

 In using a flat-tipped Pumice wheel of #240 grit, abrasions can be easily removed. DON'T USE A TAPERED WHEEL.

 With the same flat-tipped Pumice wheel of #1,000 grit, this surface is being polished without any cloth wheel that could wear away the intricate carving.

 This diagram shows the measurements of a FLAT graver.

 This is the very same Onglette graver that I used to 'bead secure' the stone in the round hole. This narrow graver is an Onglette #0 as compared with Onglette #2 on the left.