First of all so many thanks "Christine from NYC, USA". Your question made me think about these 2 simple questions. Here are my '18 photo' answers.
The Level of Difficulty is approximately 6-7, out of 10.
She wrote in the "comments" section of OUR blog. "Why would I cut a seat 3-4 times around the hole in preparing to set a Flush-Gypsy stone setting?"
1) The answer is that if I hadn't, then the results could have been catastrophic if the bur was being held on an angle. The result would have the stone sitting at an angle.
Where the beginning of the 3-4 bur cutting 'started' would be the 'finish' will give me a good chance of having a stone that won't be crooked!!!
2) She also asked why do I use a "156C" 'under-cutting bur' instead of a (straight-sided) setting Bur? My answer is quite simple; (I'm not a fan of those "straight-sided" Setting burs.) My intention is to cut a seat with the same 'angles & proportions' as of a Diamond.
I see no possibility of finding the proportions of a faceted stone by using a 'straight-sided' cutting bur. => Please see below for my many reasons.
In this first photo I'm using a HSS bur that has the very same angles that of a 'faceted stone'. I rotate this bur 3-4 times around the setting, why as I want to have a perfectly level stone to sit in the hole.
If this bearing is not well drilled, the stone will be crooked. THIS MIGHT HAPPEN.
I have many options for my drilling of a 'seat' in the FLUSH setting hole or Tube. My selection could be a "High Speed Steel" bur, or just a "156C" bur as shown on the left.
These specific burs can be bought at any tool supplier of your choice.
These "156C" burs are made of a softer metal, hence the name "Carbide".
Lets suppose that the 'circular seat' is the same as in the Flush setting. The chances of having an irregular shaped groove can be detrimental to you as a jeweller.
We deal in accuracy at 100% at all times, mistakes can easily happen.
On many occasions I use both the bur, or just a small round bur. The size of the round bur must be wider than the Girdle of the stone, nothing less!
THESE BURS ARE NOT TO BE USED IN "GYPSY-FLUSH" STYLE OF STONE-SETTING!!
This design of bur has no possibility of having any 'stone bearing' that is needed to set any 'faceted' stone.
These are are the 'trade numbering system' for the "156C"- 'bearing cutters'.
Here are two possible types of stone settings. Either the stone can be set in wax or in a metal Tube.
Here is the familiar photo of a "Flush-Gypsy" setting just before the stone is inserted.
Here is the photo of the 'bearing' being made just prior to setting of a stone. You can observe the 'circular seat' for the stone.
This stone is now ready for the hammering to be started.
I'm showing the 156C bur preparing the seat around the hole for stone setting.
The desired depth for any stone is quite easy to solve.
Where the teeth of the bur extends is the required depth of the stone. How easy is this method?
Why do I navigate the 3-4 circular cutting around the hole? I WANT THE BEARINGS TO BE AT THE SAME DEPTH ALL AROUND THE HOLE.
If the cutting hasn't been made uniform, there won't be a level stone being set. PERIOD!
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