How to maintain the graver with an Oil Stone? => 15 photos.

 This little task seems easy, with many techniques involved, this can be mind-boggling.

 First of all, hold your graver approximately at a 45-degree angle. This will be the same angle being put on all of the 'faces' on all of the gravers.

 I never assume that I have the correct angle, I always put the tip of the graver on the oil stone and lean it to the desired angle.

  

 The 45 degree angle is for ANY GRAVER that I've been using for many weeks and NEVER DEVIATED FROM IT.

 If I must create a "Right-Sided, Onglette graver" then, and only then, will I make the angle at 30 degrees.

 

 

 My FLAT graver has to have the same angles and this can be created on the oil stone.

 To acquire the correct cutting angle, these cannot be found when the graver is first purchased from your tool supplier. YOU HAVE TO SHAPE IT ON YOUR OIL STONE.

 Don't expect that all graver angles come that way, the shaping for metal cutting is a skill to be learned.  But for now, lets just say that you have learned this technique, lets now continue further in this essay.

 If your "Bright-Cutting" blade is needing to be resharpened. Always keep your stone well lubricated with a fine layer of oil, of a "Medium" viscosity.

 You can see just how thin the 'face' of the FLAT graver has been honed, or shaped. The oil-stone is used for sharpening blades prior to Bright-Cutting.

 

 There is a fine layer of oil ALWAYS only the surface of the oil-stone. This oil keeps the blade cool as its being sharpened, heat is an enemy of gravers. 

   
  As an example, all of the assortment of gravers have the very same cutting angle. The oil-stone has just one purpose and that is to contour the cutting face of the blade.

 
 Even for this moderately thick FLAT graver face is still at 45-degree angle. For this blade I kept it thick for a previous diamond setting procedure that I had.

  No matter the purpose, all of the gravers have the same angle created from the oil-stone.

 Some of these engraving blades are very old, but still 'in their prime' in doing metal carving. The 'well cared for' blade is a testament to the owner and setter.

 All of my handles are named "Adjustable, graver handle" as I can use a long or short blade and still do my setting.

 From repeated graver shaping, a fine layer of steel is being built up, how can it be removed? Just use a strong magnet and in seconds the steel shavings is easily removed.

 I had to do some metal cutting and automatically I put some a few drops of oil on the stone. I NEVER SHARPEN ANY BLADE WITHOUT THIS FINE LAYER OF OIL.