More IMPORTANT SETTING TOOLS (39 photo's)

As shown earlier about my 'setting tools', here is my full inventory.  Many of these tools have been mentioned prior to this essay, but now they will be fully explained. (Here we go again).

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My loupes are composed of three 10x power types. The Hexagonal in the background have a wider scope vison. The one of the right has a stronger vision that I use for examining diamonds. The little loupe of the front-left, is just a regular loupe.

 

 These bur pads are used instead of just having my burs laying on my bench.

 

 My pliers are my favourite tools for grasping and bringing in claws together. 

 

 The side-cutters are of two purposes. They are used to cut minute claws.

 

 This metal ring clamp is basically used to hold a ring on its side, why? If I need to set stones on the side, here it is.

 As mentioned previously my hammer weighs only 87.5 grams and has a reduced size of a hammer face. I can see exactly where the hammer is hitting, why would you need a large 'face' to hide the hammering?

 Frequently I clean and polish the hammer face, any mark on the surface will be subject to marks on the metal.

  This is my array of pushing tools, some are made of Brass, Copper and finally Steel. These were not bought, but made by myself. As only I knew what each would be used for. I avoided steel to bend the mini-claws.

 For the Copper & Brass, I drilled an indentation into the tip as the top allowed the claw tip to be nestled into the little hole. 

 

 Mini-files are marked with a felt pen. I know at a glance the grit of each file without wasting my time searching for the grit number.

This pad of burs are only for the 156C (Carbide) I know at a glance where the burs are located on my bench.

 

 These gravers may not be long, but once these are in my 'extended' graver handles, they all become the same overall length.

  All gravers need to be polished prior to any sort of cutting, of course not being polished on your cloth wheels, but on specialized polishing papers. 

 There are "Emery Papers" have a grit of #180 and these specific papers go from #240 and then up to #400 grit. (You can see them in this photograph). The higher numbers are the very useful "Polishing Papers".

 

 Why do some graver handles have 2 screws while others have only 1 screw? When I saw this, I kept both types, as the 2-screw style had extra security in tightening the graver. The 1 screw wasn't used too often as when the 1 screw gets worn out => "good-bye" handle or just the actual screw.

 These wax-dobs cannot be bought as such, I made these! I don't use any tweezers to hold or grab any small gemstone.

 I mix BOTH "Charcoal with Bees-Wax" by melting them and then forming them around a used bur. I now have a new wax-dob at no charge to you.

   If you aren't sure what size of "77B-Cup Bur" to use, do what I suggest and that is to buy a packet of burs of all sizes (as shown). These are available in any tool-supplier wholesaler, just ask!

 These are also available in Round, Bud or whatever shape you need, (again) just ask for them.

 These HSS (High Speed Steel) burs are not like the "156-C" Carbide steel). 
 I use these HSS burs solely for Engagement rings. The "156C" burs are useful for smaller claw settings and Channel Setting.

 Another name for these burs is "Bearing Cutters" as being used to create 'seats' for Channel Setting or Claw Setting.

This pad of burs are my smaller inventory of the same bur design.

  My 65 years long preference of saw blades is what you see here, why? It cuts but not having a wide or a thick cutting of the metal.

 Jewellers will use a wide cutting #2/0. If you require a thinner blade (or width) experiment with a #6/0 width.

 In a previous essay I have both the Shellac, or this great "Setters Hold It" this all depends upon your needs and tastes. If you still prefer the "GRS" method, so be it, every tool has some variety of problems.

 In examining a "Princess-Cut, Cubic Zirconia" stone, I'd prefer to use the largest 10x power, magnifying loupe possible, Fifteen (15x power) is just too strong for this imitation stone. As seen above, I have a variety of 3 loupes at my bench .

 

 The only minor problem with this specialized clamp are the jaws that hold the item. You might have little indentations on either side. That is why I prefer to use the shellac method.

This stone-holder has either 3, or 4 wire prongs to hold the stone with one purpose only. That is for close examination of the stone without using your fingers tips. 

 This is my often used "Inside, Ring-Holder", it has 10 plastic inserts for different sizes of rings.

Inside of my bench-peg is a recess that I cut that I use the instead of using a tray.  

     

My shellac comes in a 'flake' configuration, all I do is to put a low flame to it and allow the flakes to melt into a ball of wax.

On any polishing stick, I apply a thin layer of 'pencil rubbing'. The pores of the paper are then filled with lead therefore making the paper smoother.

 For example, I can immediately transform a #800 grit paper to a #1,000 grit (or even smoother). I use a "Soft-core, Drafting Pencil #2".

 

This is my "Tube-Setting" holder. I use this clamp to hold (tightly) any Tube settings that will be needed.

 I use this Micro-Torch to heat the "Flake-Shellac" for the shellac-stick. Then when it cools, I'll warm the setting project into that same prepared shellac-stick.

 This was my setting bench in my office in Toronto. Now to save money, I work from my home.

 

   You want a bur? I keep the same style of burs on the same bur-pad.

I number my grit of my files, as I prefer at a 'moments notice' to where any file is.

Here are 4 brushes that keep at my working area. None of them were bought at a jewellery supplier.

 The green brush is actually a tooth brush, but with softer bristles. The brush on the far left is a paint-brush with really soft bristles. The black brush in the middle is too hard to use as much of my setting needs gentle & flexible bristles.

This is correctly named "Fine India Oilstone, FB6". It is made by "NORTON Industries". I find that this oilstone is the best for diamond setting, as the stone length is great for easy refurbishing at a moments notice.

This 'hand-held' vise-clamp has many uses. I used it extensively in grasping my "Guinness World Record, Poker-chip" without damaging any parts to it.

 Even with the precious stones inserted, I had found that there was no need to be worried. I gently held the disk in place, but not too tightly.

  Of the three handles that can you see which handle is my favourite? One simple guess, the answer is easy, I use my "Flexible, Micro-Motor" handle, as it gives me complete 'freedom of movement' during my intense labour Diamond Setting sessions.