"Channel Setting" in 26 photos.

 Channel Setting is not that difficult to work on. I'll put the number at "8 on the Difficulty Scale of 10".

 Here are my techniques, you might have seen others, but these work best for me. 

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1) Let's start with the "156C" (Carbide) cutting bur, as there is no other bur to do this creating of bearings. I prefer to keep the edge of the bur, at the bottom of the Channel Wall.

 

2) The size of the bur is governed solely by the diameter of the stone.

3) If you select a bur with the same width as of the Girdle, you won't have any room to navigate around the opening. I suggest a bur to be no larger than 80% of the stone. 

4) All the inner stone spaces MUST BE CLEANED OUT before any stone gets to be set. If the stone is 'resting' on a casting defect, or an untouched hole, the stone might get damaged or broken. Get all of the holes cleaned out before any setting has started.

 There should be little, or no spacing in between any of the stones when set.

As you can see in this photograph that all of the "Princess-Cut" stones are almost touching each other. Please allow a little gap to each stone.

 The reasoning is, that if you are hammering these stones, the vibration won't hit or damage any of the stones.

 The same "principle of spacing" with Round stones is the same as the above mentioned Princess-Cut stones. With these Round stones, none of the "Girdles" should overlap each other when set.

 There appears to be little space between the end stone and it's neighbour. Up-close, this is not fully acceptable, but from a distance this is just 'passable'.

 In dealing with white stones on a white background, the minute space just blends in with the colour of the metal.

 When finishing the stone setting, it is apparent that the inner wall "Bright-Cutting" is an essential technique that always needs to be addressed. Not many Diamond, or Gemstone setters complete this very simple & but important task. Why not??

 Gemstone setting Genuine Emeralds is not an easy process. It needs a variety of NEW Round Burs running from #002 all the way up to #004. I use as well Bud-Shaped burs as these burs will prepare for the Pavillion of the new (unset) stones.

 This Emerald bracelet difficulty is beyond a "9+ on the 10 Scale".

 

 As there very well could be variety of stones in every size shown. I could be spending much time selecting the correct stone, as some of them could very well be deeper in the Pavillion, from the others.

 Even checking the quality on every stone is an important factor.

 I'd be searching each stone 'one at a time' for size, quality, internal flaws & defects. The setting prices are decided upon the time you are spending in the setting. (I'm not at liberty to discuss any pricing, in this blog.) 

 Where would I be using my Bud burs? I'll be using them in opening up each long setting. The Round burs can be used in making the delicate bearing cuts along the inside of the channel wall. 

 When each of the openings for every stone has been made. I suggest to put each selected stone on a sticky-pad and start your setting. The 'First Stone' will be the center on every link. The metal should be 'pressed over' (never hammered) with your Brass, or Copper pusher.

 As it's written somewhere "Thou Shalt Not Use a Steel Metal Pusher". Yellow gold used in these links, is an "insanely delicate" setting process. 

 

 If you are not inclined in setting this kind of bracelet, I suggest giving it to a professional gemstone setter.

 

 I could do this, but my setting price is measured in my experience and ability. (I will turn off my iPhone and forgo any cups of coffee!!!) 

 The metal polishing is done NOT ON YOUR LARGE POLISHING, CLOTH-WHEEL. I firmly suggest using your flexible hand-held "Micro-Motor" and using the mini-polishing wheels.

 Channel Setting can be planned as well in a wax form, as shown here. 

The spacing is accomplished by placing each stone on the top of the channel wall.  The Channel Wall should be longer than the three stones together.

 REMEMBER THAT THERE IS A 6% SHRINKAGE DIRECTLY FROM THE WAX-CARVING & CASTING TO THE FINISHED PROJECT.

 This is a "total must" in your pricing regarding wax carving & casting calculations.

 In my spacing, I laid the three stones together and made allowance for the eventual gold Channel Wall. 

 I also made sure that the Pavillion of the stones will not touch the base of the Channel Wall. I left extra space for the 6% shrinkage problem.

   I 'warmed' the three stones together, as I wanted to know just where the Girdles of the tones would be sitting. From that point on, I started to carve out the recesses.

 Here again are the seven (7) stones sitting together with barely any space in between. I used my Triangular #4 cut file to trim the individual stone "End-Bezels".

 In the completed Channel Setting, you can (barely see) how even and uniform the Channel Walls are finished.

 This package of burs are my chosen burs. If one bur gets worn out, or ruined I have another bur ready to be used.

 This ring needs to be repaired NOW, as there is a pin-hole in the lower Channel Wall. Never leave it until after the setting, or even during. Get it repaired as soon as you can. 

 Use a Round bur to clean out the inner hole where the stones will be sitting. If you need to pre-polish the inner frame, (again) do it NOW!!!

  In the lower photograph is the completed Ruby gemstone ring.

 This is a CAD designed ring using a selection of Straight-Cut Baguettes and Marquise-Cut stones. The setting process is aptly named "End-Bezel Setting". 

 

 One thing that I would do is to Bright-Cut the inner walls and the "V" shaped claws. I'm a perfectionist and do not adhere to just making short-cuts in my Diamond Setting.

 Here is a side-view of the same ring as seen above, of course the claws and walls will not be the same in the photograph. For your information, all sections of the rings must highly polished before any Diamond Setting is done. 

All ring sizing MUST BE DONE IN CAD before the actual casting process.

 I saw this 'wax preparation' on a steel mandrel. I started to think that this jeweller had the 'right attitude' in his method of setting stones in his wax ring.

 As you can see that there are virtually NO SPACES anywhere to be seen. This is the ultimate setting project. There are no errors to be seen, all that there is to do now is to polish the ring.

  Channel Setting with genuine stones of many shapes and sizes is a difficult and challenging process.

 It takes many years of experience and with due diligence, experience will come in time. 

 Thanks for reading this tutorial-essay and I'm hoping that you and everyone learned a few important rules & techniques. Gerry Lewy!