Thursday 3 August 2023

"BEHIND THE SCENCES" Multiple Claws (12 photos) Gemstone setting.

 Claw setting now comes in many varieties, from a large collection of fancy-cut stones, all the way up to multiple mini-stones set in one ring. I will now be displaying some of these colourful & ornate rings.

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Triangular shaped stones have two choices in being set. Either having a "V" shaped claw  that are used to protect the sharp corners, or a 'double' claw as shown in this photo.


  In this photo the designer opted for claws on the Emerald-cut stone. This gave the setter an easier chance in having the claws at the rectangular shaped stone. The setter also choose to 'round off' the claw tips (which I prefer).

  In this photos I saw that the designer chose to use just rudimentary 4 tiny claws. In view of these, I would make my choice to be a double-claw system. 
 For this, there would be more security for this expensive Emerald stone. There would be also ample room to put double-claws instead of one!

 It took me many times to get a photo of this ornate looking ring. By the looks of this ring, it appears to be of multiple sections that were very carefully set and then it was soldered from underneath.
                             

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   Here are 'old fashioned cuts' and a diagram showing the reflection of light passing through a gemstone.


 In this photo are Culets of Diamonds that were removed, 'we' don't use this antiquated method today (thankfully). When the Culets were removed there was an 'empty space' from underneath being seen right through the stone.
 I am not in favour of this sort of Diamond Polishing, if it is seen, then the diamond should be again 'recut' to gain more brilliance.

This is a diagram of the angles and heights of how a diamond is shaped  in todays market.
 
This how the light is reflected and 'bounced' through the stone and back to the viewer.

 Where the are sharp corners on the stones it is advisable to drill a round bur into where the it is folding over the Girdle. I would use this for safety of the fine girdle edge, but not for esthetics.

I believe in safety of the stone which is adamant in gemstone setting.

This is the up-close photo of the method that I'm writing about.

 All of these many techniques being shown above come from this simple '4-claw' setting.


 I sincerely hope that this history lesson is valuable to you in learning how diamonds were cut and shaped many years ago...Gerry Lewy!

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