"BEHIND THE SCENES" in Newly-Created Mini-Claws => 21 photos

 In this second of many tutorial essays are more intensive tutorials for you to review.

 In my previous blogs, I've just skimmed over the essential techniques, now and I'm going in much greater detail of why Diamond Setting is a challenging (albeit difficult) skill to learn.

 I'm using a ring that I had laying around my bench. Instead of Pave' stone setting after I Gypsy-set a Genuine Amethyst I thought of  trying a novel approach. Why not just create a Pave' setting from a FLAT surface? Is this possible? Just read further, this is where the fun starts, trust me!

This Difficulty Scale is at '8-9, out of 10'.

 After deciding where the overall stones will be set and their separation, I will make a little indentation in the metal. At this time I drilled a hole exactly where the 'markings' are.

 With my "BUD" shaped bur I chose to open the holes, if a Bud isn't sufficient I'd use a "Round" bur instead. This "Bud" bur is held at an angle, if the stone is not in the correct position, my bud bur 'will move the hole' a millimeter or two. How is this done? I'll just lean the bur at an angle.

This is how the 'bur leaning' looks in greater detail.

  I'm interested in keeping my working areas clean, I'm using a wire-wheel to brush the surface.

 The next few steps are so important that I can't miss any steps in creating the new claws. I must avoid any accidents, if I can't see anything, then problems will easily occur...OUCH!

 

 These few burs that I'm using, should be within close proximatery to my immediate working area.

 I used my Onglette graver, #1 to carve a rudimentary line where the new claws will be positioned.

 Where the original line was cut, I prepared to cut again with my Onglette #2 graver that is highly polished on ONE SIDE. As my graver is narrowed to a fine sharp point, (a Flat graver cannot cut these intricate areas). 

 In between each drilled hole are 2 lines of cutting, I've cut with my mini-shaped bud bur #002 a series of cuts like an X, but now to look almost like :O: + :O: These will now be the beginnings of claws! 

  To review the drilling, I've opened up the holes to accept every round stone.

 To examine the progress of my work, I put my ring sample under the "Electronic, 100x power Microscope". I will never use 'short-cuts'. I must examine how each stone and it's new claws are being used in holding every stone.

 I could use my sharpened graver to give me Bright-Cut ONLY AFTER THE MINI-CLAWS HAVE BEEN MADE. I don't want the burs to ruin any of the delicate graver cuttings.

 Here is a better view on the bud-bur crafting, if I used a graver it wouldn't allow me to cut DEEP in between the close areas. I experimented this process many times before taking photos.

 If one side of the 'cross-cutting' has been completed, I'd turn the ring around to bur-cut again this other side of this mini-line.

 in this photo you can observe where the bur-cutting dug into the metal, then I'll turn the ring around to continue the cutting. This will give me the desired depth, interesting idea. There is now at this point of  touching or hitting the graver cuttings.

I'm using my selection of mini-burs everywhere, why? My gravers just can't negotiate the small spaces to make any sort of line-cuttings.

 I decided for convenience to cut 1/2 of a line, rotate the ring and cut the other side. This will give me a DEEP cutting. Gravers cannot cut a 'long line' in such a very limited space. I'm using only the VERY TIP OF THE BUD BUR. If you wish to use a small #002 round bur, so be it.

 This is my complete assortment of useable burs. I don't want to waste my time in searching in my bench for one much needed bur.

This is my 'finished process' in creating 'new claws' on the side of a ring.

 This alternate pattern can also be used, this "wide ring pattern" originated as flat plate.

I missed taking some important photos, my apologies with this oversite.