This essay illustrates the process and the techniques from a wax to the finished item.
The first step is to remove any unwanted remnants of wax from the wax injection.
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I'll use my Flat graver #12 as a cutting blade to do the cleaning.
All of the 'wax claws' must be inspected for quality and not bent out of shape.
When the silver pendant is warmed (not heated) and it is placed upon the shellac, all of the holes must be drilled clean with a "twist drill".
If possible, pre-polish the pendant. Why? Once the stones are set, the chances of complete polishing have been greatly reduced.
The 'pavilion openings' must be perfectly 'round' and not oval as they seem to be here.
In using the "156C" undercutting bur, create a seat for each stone.
This claw opening is the ultimate shape for all of these stones.
When the 'seats' have been created, you should tighten each stone.
This bur will be the only bur to use to create seats for each stone. Drill one claw at a time; never drill all of them at once.
Start your 'stone setting' with the outside claws first.
With your pliers, leverage the outside claw against the stone. Never push the claw; you can see just where the plier jaws are located.
In avoiding setting the centre stone at this point, you can now easily position the plier jaws with little effort.
When the centre stone is ready to be set, just position the plier jaws and manoeuvre the claws for the setting.
When you are creating a seat for each claw, there will be a little flange of metal remaining. GET RID OF IT before the centre stone goes in. I would use a pumice (#180 grit) wheel to do the cleaning.
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