These burnishers are a final step Bead-Setting, or rounding of the mini-claws.
Alongside my box of graver blades is my tray of various Bead Burnishers. Although there might be duplication in case one tool is badly worn I have 'extra' on hand.
As there are many sizes in my inventory, each one is prepared for different uses.
In using the burnisher for Genuine Emeralds there is a flange on one side of the 'cup'. This 'cup' prevents any damage to very soft stone.
Emeralds have only 6 on the Mohs Scale of Hardness, therefore heavy pushing is not wanted or required.
When the burnisher is rounding the Bead on your project, it is customary to rotate the burnisher when applying the tool to the bead. This will enable the new bead to have a 'mini-ball' appearance as this is what 'we' are all aiming for.
When the need to have all of the necessary beads in one size it is customary to have an 'extra tool' as backup. These tools do seem to wear down after constant use.
It is best to take your time in selecting the correct size of Burnisher, this is the final step in the Bead-Setting process.
All of the beads in this project need to be uniform in size. Therefore even the shape of the beads MUST BE UNIFORM at all times.
You can see the reflection on the side wall of the beads being used.
I use a Bead Burnisher to move the beads over each stone. This manoeuvre secures each stone as well as rounding the tip. There is no other process in Diamond Setting that will greatly assist this 'securing process'.
You can see that each mini-claw is uniform in shape and size.
I prefer to pre-select the size of beads for this delicate project by using my Burnisher to the tip of the mini-bead. This will give me a good chance of having the correct size of bead that will eventually be used. I call this "pre-planning"
There is no other tool in any stone-setting inventory that will round off the tip of each or any bead.
In this drawing, I simulated how the burnisher should be placed on each bead tip. "Rotating the Bead" gives the bead tip a 'rounding appearance'. This alone is so very essential in acquiring the overall shape.
If the Bead Burnisher is too small, problems arise, and you will find that there is a little 'dish' around the tip of the bead.
My next essay on "Burnishers" explains why there should be a (modified) flange given to other burnishers.
This photo is the closeup of the positioning of the bead Burnisher to the gemstone. I always hold the burnisher at a 30-degree angle.
Even at tightening these mini claws, my burnisher will be held at a 30 degree angle NEVEN HAVE THE BURNISHER HELD PERPENDICULAR, WHY? The edge of the tool could very well damage or break the stone.
All of these mini-claws are now of the same size & shape.
This flange can be created in a moment by laying the burnishing tool at a 30-degree angle to the oilstone.
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