What shape of hammers (and why) are BEST for "Bezel Setting". => 18 photos

   There is no need to use a large hammer when hammering Bezels, but a very lightweight hammer is also a problem. The proverbial questions are "Which, why & when". I'll attempt to explain these 3 questions in this essay. Which is the best size of a hammer for Bezel Settings.

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 This particular hammer is my first choice. I have used this shape continually for the past 30+ years.

 Let the hammer with a long handle do the hitting, you don't need to push the hammer face down towards the ring. The energy used in this hitting is measured in ERGs or 'Units of work'. (I enjoy studying Physics).

 A shorter handle just doesn't have the downward pressure, (a waste of your money).

 The 'Face' of this hammer is too wide, as it continually covers your 'line of sight' while seeing where your contact is.

 This hammer is too light and doesn't have the 'downward power' needed to move the metal in Bezel or Flush settings.

 This particular hammer is what I have been using for most of my Gemstone Settng career. It has a weight of 2.96 ounces or 84.0 grams.

 When you see these deep indentations, these are caused by the continual hitting of bezels. THIS IS A REAL MAJOR PROBLEM.

 Any marks remaining on the hammer 'face' will be transferred to the new bezel frame. GET RID OF THEM NOW aka AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. 

 I attempted to remove the hammer marks by using a #600 (rough) Polishing paper but with limited success. The next step is initially to use #240 grit Emery paper, then go to the #600 grit.

You can see exactly how these marks are gradually formed.

 It is imperative that all of the 'Hammer' marks be eliminated as they will be transferred to the bezel frame.

  I used different (narrower) hammer anvils for narrower bezel frames

 This is another example of hammering areas. Why use a wide hammer face on ultra-narrow (Gypsy) Flush Setting sections?

 READ WITH CAUTION: If you are hitting the "Flush Setting" too hard, there will be flat surfaces wherever your hammer touches the frame. Hit, but not 'flatten the surface'.

   DON'T LET THE ANVIL OF THE HAMMER GET TOO CLOSE TO THE STONE. If the hammer touches the stone, your choice of words will be not acceptable to the 'younger generation'. 

 

 Please avoid using a narrow hammer anvil, as this will leave deep facets. A "Reciprocating Hammer" is not desirable with these delicate setting projects, you need a wider contact for Bezel hitting.

 Always examine where the Hammer Face is touching the Bezel Frame. In some cases, you could aim for the Bezel lip and accidentally touch the ring as well.

 

 Always plan where the hammer will be touching, this is before you start any multi-level setting. Plan ahead where the hammer will be touching, (I do this often).

 My own answer to this 'planning problem' is to change the hammer location. This will save you much grief during your hammering. Experiment with a mandrel instead of a ring clamp.

 Who said that "Diamond or Gemstone Setting can be a 2-week learning process".