"Princess-setting" in an 'End-Bezel' ring => 20 photos

 "Princess-cut" or 'square stone' gemstone settings can be very intriguing in the realm of stone settings. This gem-setting process is not meant for the beginner, there must be many weeks (or months) of practice needed. I Rate this Level of Difficulty at 9, out of 10.

 These large 'bud burs' shown here are for one purpose and that is to open the hole for the Pavilion Facet to rest against.

 You can vaguely see the 'etched lines' as WHERE THE BUR OPENING MUST NOT EXTEND BEYOND THESE LINES.

  These 'openings' mean that when the drilling is being done, the hole will not be drilled larger than the stone. THIS IS 100% IMPORTANT.

 These small 'drilling indentations' will be created especially for the four corners of the stone. These corners will be drilled just where the stone will be permanently set.

 The depth of the holes will be just for the Girdle of the stone. With a small round bur, these 'corner' holes will be joined together for the rest of the stone to sit.

 With a FLAT graver of #40 width, the square opening is now being created.

 Instead of laying all of your unnecessary and not needed burs in your bench pan keep only the most important few within fingers reach.

  I'd use a moderately sized bud-bur to open the hole further for the Culet of the stone. The size of this bud-bur depends upon the depth of the Culet that is needed.

 This square opening is primarily for the sides of the Girdle. Accuracy in these Girdle carvings requires much practice in using your selected 'bud and round' burs.

 REVIEW: 

1)Does the square stone finally fit into the opening?

2) The etched line correctly corresponds to the layout of the hole.

2)  Are the four corners correctly carved in relationship to those 'etched lines' that is, are the corners not crooked in the ring?

=>This photo shows that the opening is slightly off-centred.<=

 

 You can faintly see that the stone is sitting within the 'bearings' made with the round bur.

  EXAMINATION OF THE LOOSE STONE:

1) Is the stone (finally) sitting flat in the opening?

2) Are the 4 corners correctly aligned against the 4 holes of the ring?

  In using a Reciprocating Hammer no pressure must be placed upon the corners of the stone. The hammer anvil hitting will be ONLY BE MOVING THE METAL around the 4 corners.

  Here is another view of the same action being taken.

 To avoid the 'direct hitting' on the corner for the stone, I might suggest a gentle hitting on the metal. This is primarily to smooth the metal around the stone.

 With a FLAT graver with a width of #40 proceed to Bright-Cut the metal that is covering the edge of the stone. The metal cutting must keep the 4 sides of the hole parallel to the stone.

  The final step in this gemstone setting is to use your pumice wheels of initially #180 grit followed by the Pink pumice wheel of #1,200 grit. 

  Avoid any 'cloth wheel' to polish the ring top. You may use your 'lapping wheel' as a flat surface is very important in finishing the polishing process.