Sunday, 23 March 2025

MORE #2 Emerald-Cut stone (preparation & setting) => 13 photos

  In these photos, there will be an emphasis on the stone setting. The corners of these stones are the most critical areas to deal with.



 There is a difference of the sizes of the rings, even though the stones are of the same size.


   As a Diamond Setter, I avoid having the corners of the stone resting against the metal. I like to have a space between the stone and the claw corner. The metal that will GENTLY touch the stone will be sufficient with these thin claws.

  Here is my answer as to how the stone should be sitting in the metal.

  There should be no opposing claw pressure put on the stone, only the 'side to side' claws.

 The stone should be kept level and not be slanted within the claw. 
 
 As one claw is held into place, the opposing claw can slowly & very gently be moved towards the stone.

 When tightening these claws, the two side claws may be moved side to side BUT NOT IN AN OPPOSING POSITION.
 
 The pliers should move the claw sides, BUT NEVER THE OPPOSING CLAW CORNERS.

 When you think that the claws are equally spaced and the stone is resting sufficiently against the claw, we may proceed further. We are now entering the 'finishing stage'. 
 With your Pumice Wheel of #180 grit remove all of the plier marks everywhere 'on and around' the claws. Maintain the same angles of the ring as this will keep the integrity of the finish.

 I always attempt to keep the claws well-spaced and of course, well-trimmed with the Triangular file #4 grit.

  
 When finishing the Pumice Wheel cleaning, maintain faceted angles to give a nicer finish to the 'upper and lower sections' of the claws.

 Here is the 'before and after' gemstone setting. You don't see any thick and unkempt appearance of the claws.



 








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