"Flush-Gypsy" setting a Princess-Cut stone! => 30 photos

  In my ongoing series of "Princess-Cut" square-shaped stones, I need to explore the many styles of rings. Each of these ring styles can be so very challenging.

 There should be extreme care when working with these 'square-shaped' stones.

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The Rate of Difficulty just for this essay is 15, on a scale of 10. There are just too many chances of breakage and creating a litany of errors.

 I suggest etching a line to locate the centre of the band to set the 4 cornered stone. Once that the line is drawn, you can drill a hole into the band with a twist drill. Then with a large bud-shaped bur, but why a bud-shaped bur? This bur needs to make access to the Pavilion of the stone. 

 The next bur will be with a large Bud-shaped head. This bur will then prepare an opening for the square stone.

 There are so many steps involved, that I will guide you step-by-step. There are no short-cuts in this project, not even a little one.

   I prefer to lay my stone on the metal. I need to know where the square shape will be situated on the flat surface and how much space will be needed for the stone.

 I like to mention that the 4 'lines' being shown here are my GPS in preparing for the drilling of the opening. For this, also where the corners of the stone will be situated.

 I chose a large round bur that will be at least 75% of the size of the stone. This large bur will be for the Pavilion of the stone that will sit in the metal.

  Don't drill the hole too deep as this will only open a hole for the upper section of the stone.

 The next step is to initiate the cutting of the 4 corners of the stone. Once the 4 corners are made, kindly use a mini-bud bur, but drill at an angle of 45 degrees into the opening.

 With the same bud-bur, cut deep, but still keeping the initial shape of the stone. Again, with the large shaped bud-bur start now to create a new opening towards making a seat for the stone.

INSPECTION TIME!

Inspect where the stone will be lying on the ring. If you need to etch a line on the metal for yourself, this will greatly help you.

  Are the 4 corners of the stone in the correct position on the surface of the ring top?

 If any extra pieces of metal carvings require to be removed, do it NOW!

 With your FLAT graver of #40 'trim the top of the walls of the hole' to be the exact shape of the stone.

Drilling corners!

 The 'corner round bur cutting' has one purpose and that is to protect the 4 corners of this delicate stone.

 REVIEW!

  Are the four sides of the hole well measured against the stone? If not, please administer the correct trimming => NOW! This is because the next few steps are so very important.

 This small round bur has one purpose and that is to create a bearing of the Girdle of the stone. 

 I prefer to have the round bur just a shade larger than the actual Girdle of the stone. If the bearing is the same width as the stone, there could be breakage occuring.

 In making the 4 bearings inside of the hole I usually make a series of 'dots' where they are cut. These 'dots' will be a new bearing when they are joined together.

   SECURING AND HAMMERING THE STONE

Now that the stone is sitting in the new opening, we can further our plans in stone setting.

 This is a very precarious chance of breaking the Culet of the stone.
The stone is protruding below the metal, why did this happen? The thickness of the ring was not correctly measured against the depth of the stone. What can be done here?

 My experience is this was an error and maybe a new ring could be made or soldering a little jump-ring circling the exposed Culet.

 The Reciprocating Hammer can be used here with no problems. The utmost care is needed in selecting the correct spots to hammer.

 The hammering is shown where the black ink was rubbed off. Good idea? Here are 2 spots just to hold the stone in place.

 The next step is: 4 spots to keep the stone from getting crooked.

 

  Gently tightening the 4 corners, but not hard 'hits'.

  We are now getting close to finishing the stone-setting process

REVIEW!

  This is a close-up of the protruding Culet as seen in the above photo.

  Even with the black ink, you can see the flat surface where the hammer was hitting the metal.

 With a FLAT graver of #40 size Bright-Cut the inner opening where the stone is now resting.

 I know for a fact that very few stone setters Bright-Cut the inner Flush Setting. Please do not be like them, give your jewellery a sign of quality.

 This is now the FINISHED FLUSH SETTING RING with a Princess-Cut stone.