I 'inked' a vertical line against the claw. With this line, I didn't want to extend my cutting more profoundly into the claw metal. This action would have endangered the stability of the stone & the claw.
It is imperative to keep the claws vertical at all times.
The plier jaws have serrated edges as they will grip the metal securely and not the plier jaws slide while being tightened.
With "V" metal jaws, there are no longer 4 claws, but now there are 8 sides to this claws.
HOW DO WE PREPARE THE CLAWS FOR THIS VERY INTRICATE STONE SETTING?
With "V" metal jaws, there are no longer 4 claws, but now there are 8 sides to this claws.
RULE #1:
Don't grip the corners of the 'V' claw and bring them closer to the stone. This will surely damage the stone.
Some of these stones arrive at the stone dealer with misshapen structures. YOU THE SETTER, MUST REALIZE THAT NOT ALL OF THE STONES ARE SYMMETRICAL
This photo shows just how important 'claw carving' is before the setting of the stone.
As I just wrote, all of the new bearings of the claw must match the angles of the stone. Close examination of this claw carving, is so important.
In this photo, these side-cutting lines will match the girdles of the stone.
In this close-up photo, is what I mean in not exceeding the stone width.
If too much pressure is applied to the corners of the fragile stone. The result is monetary devastating in replacing the stone, let it be genuine or even synthetic.
With a round bur, the inside of the claws must match the stone at all times. Additional cuts must coincide with the exact angles of the stone.
In this close-up photo, is what I mean in not exceeding the stone width.
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