Diamonds IN YOUR TEETH ??? => 30 photos.

 I'm not a dentist, nor a dental technician, but here are some interesting 'dental photos' for you. (Sorry! These photos are not in any sequential order.)

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  As these teeth were of different sizes, I had no idea at the beginning of this project how many diamonds I would really need.

  Here are two more photos of fully endowed tooth coverings of diamonds & gold.

  In every tooth, I'll place one of the larger 'selected' diamonds in the centre. In a symmetrical order, I'd arrange 8 diamonds from the centre going outwards.

  I'd need a series of huge groups of diamonds around the centre stone. Most of the sizes are shown here.

  After I set the centre diamond, I will predrill holes for each of the surrounding 4 stones. This one action is the next stage of setting all gemstones. 

 I'd arrange one stone to be aiming for the 'top of the curve' tooth.

 

  The 'beading process' is quite essential for laying out the numerous gemstones further on.

 Already, you can see one hole needs another diamond. This one stone will be placed in the right corner of the tooth. Security is essential for all of the diamonds.

 At the bottom of each tooth, where there is a straight area, I'd cut a straight line with my Onglete graver.

  

 There are 8 'predrilled holes' in EACH TOOTH. I'd use these deep markings to position the 'twist drill' before the drilling of the stones.

  Once all of the teeth have these centre stones set, I'd advance the positioning for the next phase of stone setting.

  As I am positioning the row of teeth on the shellac stick. You can see the centre diamond being positioned. All of the teeth are of different sizes, and because of this, the required number of stones varies accordingly.

 

 Each tooth will require a different number of diamonds. Accuracy in spacing is a priority, and (vague) guessing is not desired.

 There is no opportunity to have any spaces in between any of the diamonds. The 'Bead (rounding) Burnishing' process is essential on every gemstone. Each bead must be over the 'Girdle Facet'.

 As some teeth are Round and Oval in shape, it's essential to maintain that diamond symmetry throughout all of the teeth. SIZE & SHAPE WILL DIFFER WITH EVERY TOOTH. 

  With my shellac stick, I'll rest the wooden dowel against my bench-peg. I didn't want my hand to get tired, even after 20 minutes, as this can be tiring. Concentration is also tiring; take a rest as often as you can.

 I'll place a new row of  'beads' between the first row. I'll call this 'alternating row of beads to diamonds'.

 I never lay my burs all over my bench. I need them as close to my fingers as possible.

 I'll place all of my essential setting tools in my tray and my trays of replacement burs near this tray.

 These gold teeth were extracted from a cement covering, and they were not permanently worn. With this display, you can see how thin the gold teeth actually were.

 This photo shows how my pictures were taken and used for this essay.

 I always rested the wooden dowel against my bench peg. This was my only opportunity to support the continuing beading process.

 Even if I supported one tooth, I had a great opportunity to not ruin this project for my client.

 When each hole is to be drilled, there must be enough room for the Pavilion Facets as well. 

 GET THOSE NEW BEADS COMPLETELY OVER THE 'GIRDLE OF THE DIAMOND'. 

 I HAD TO REMEMBER: This was not made for a piece of finger jewellery; this was to be worn in the client's mouth.

You can easily notice that there is a spreading or the layout of the beads, this was done on purpose!!!

 I maintained a design aspect throughout the diamond setting process.

 If there are spaces in between the diamonds, fill these spaces with new beads.

 I can see that ONE DIAMOND WAS SET CROOKED. Please avoid this before the diamond is tightened. If you neglect this, it'll be too late and literally impossible to fix afterwards.

 The space in between these stones was not carefully prepared, and it looked like a graver just slid along the metal. (I repaired this error after this photo was taken).

 I prepared to set only 4-5 diamonds at a time. Each 'Diamond Table' had to be slightly lower than the surface of the metal. This allowed me to create sufficiently sized beads.

 On the very tip of the Onglette blade, I rounded the point. This gave me the desired shape to create beads where & when needed. I used an Emery paper of #2/0 grit to do the 'rounding'.

 When I needed to change the position of the 'row of teeth' on the Shellac Dowel. I very carefully reinforced the 'line of teeth' with additional shellac, and the shellac was added while the flakes of shellac were still warm.

 If possible, keep the 'mediocre quality' of diamonds to the rear of the teeth, or out of sight.

 The new row of beads should be between each of the original stones. (This explanation can be seen in this photo)

 If anyone who is reading this tutorial essay finds themselves in the same predicament of setting diamonds. I heartily suggest giving to a Diamond Setter who has much experience with this sheer complexity. I've been a diamond setter for only 65 YEARS.