How to Channel Set diamonds in a bracelet? - 5 photos

 I've had this photo sitting in my bookcase for many years, it's time to explore how it was set. I had only one chance to photograph the stone-setting process.

 My teacher and I worked on this bracelet together 'as a team'. This was long before there were any 'Reciprocating Hammers'. He held the shellac stick with the gold bracelet in one hand and I had to "GENTLY" hit the little anvil that tightened the diamonds.

 I stood beside him and hit this anvil without any undue force.

 All of this was done ONE DIAMOND AT A TIME.

 BTW, this hammering anvil was originally a "Concrete Nail" modified into a 'new setting tool'. I held the 'nail' securely in my fingertips. Many of our tools were made at our benches and had to be modified to our exact specifications.

 After the hammering was completed, my teacher (Stan Levine) Bright-Cut on the inside of every channel wall. You can see the spacing that had to be done as this was for the diamonds. At the beginning of each row of stones was where each diamond was placed. Spacing was so critical that much time was spent deciding that there were enough diamonds for every channel. Many times Stan would change one or two diamonds, large or smaller as we proceeded.

 The next process was the use of "Pumice Wheels" of #180 grit followed by a fine high lustre Pink Wheel #1,000 grit. The 'polishing department' in this jewellery factory had no reason to improve on the setting of the stones, all they did was to give a light Rouging. 

 This bracelet was intended to be worn by the owner's wife, because of this, "extra care was the rule".  

 The burs that were used were very limited in the inventory. The burs then (50 years ago) were not like today, there were no Computer Designing or HSS burs all 'we' had was the basic "156C" undercutting bur. 

This whole process took my teacher (who himself learned his profession in London, England). This diamond setting took 'us' almost 4 days in duration, this bracelet had diamonds circling the whole item.  
 As Stan had one stone secured in place, I hit the anvil and finished the tightening. This repeated process was labour-intensive.

Hoping that this insight was interesting as it was for 'us'.