Tuesday, 11 June 2024

PROBLEMS in resetting 2 Marquise Emeralds => 12 photos

 A client asked me to reset 2 Marquise-shaped Emeralds. Under closer examination I saw that 3 more stones were loose, we both decided not to touch those loose stones, why?

 If any of those claws broke, the chances of repairing the claws on the 18Karat gold would be a total disaster. Even with Laser-soldering technology, the repairing would be extremely difficult and expensive task for my 'off-site' jeweller.

 As this necklace was hand-made about 30+ years ago and more claws breaking would be an ongoing problem. Of course, the chances of more lost stones was also discussed.

  

  You can see that many of the 'connecting jump-rings' were not soldered, why? I have just no idea.


 He suggested that I reset the 2 stones and he would tell his customer that no other work should done to tighten the remaining stones. The decision was equally shared between us both.


 Here is one of the 'spare' stones in case one got broken.


   Here is a close-up of that 'spare-stone' as you can see that not one of the connecting 'jump-rings' was even soldered.

 Here is the overall view of this 'disaster waiting to happen'.



 Upon closer scrutiny, all of the stones were not 'professionally' set. We both decided to leave the balance of the stones untouched.
 I showed my client that many of the claws were not properly secured to any of the stones.

 On looking at the under-bezel of each stone, there were an 'uneven creating' of the numerous stone baskets.

 Now you can see up-close why a few of the stones came out. The claws were not filed to hold any stone securely.
 It was a maelstrom of problems and we were sure that other stones would fall out and eventually get lost. 
 BTW, the 2-claw basket was supposed to be 'oval' to match the Pavilion of the stone.

  Very few of the stones had any uniformity in having 'rounded claws'. It was just a 'collection of poor workmanship', pity! Many of the stones were Oval or Marquise.

  In tightening just one claw. I was very concerned & apprehensive if one claw would break. I just moved one "outside claw" closer to the freshly set stone and left the "inside claw" untouched.
 All of this planning was done as my client was sitting behind my chair and talking on his cell-phone. He began to make my concentration very poor.
 I nicely asked him to refrain in his talking about his mundane travel plans to a European health-spa.

    I charged him for my time and expertise, he cordially accepted my fee. 

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