Bead Burnishing and Bright-Cutting on metal => 16 photos

 These two topics are so important, that they must be reviewed often, do you agree???

Just what does a Bead-Burnisher do while burnishing a Bead? The answer is quite simple. It 'rounds' off the tip of a sharpened point of a newly created Bead. The Burnisher has an inside dish that covers that one bead. When pressed down and rotating it will create a 'little ball' that will cover the "Girdle" of the stone. 

 I use all of the Onglette gravers to "Bright-Cut" in the metal. There is no other way to create this design & pattern.

  I use only Onglette gravers #1 & #2 to initialize any 'abstract' graver cutting. Then following, with a highly polished graver to further any "Bright-Cutting". I personally try to avoid any cutting with Flat graver.

 When I 'Pre-Set' the stones, this will give more strength to the beads and give the 'stone setting' a more polished finish.

 Even after all of the stones have been set. The applied "Bead-Burnishing" process gives more lustre to the overall appearance.

 This initial photo is the epitome of being made fantastic for the wearer to view. 

 There must be a separation of the Hand-Created beads. If not, the two beads will not look complete. The only method is using a Graver of #1 width to separate the metal beads.

 Please note that EVERY BEAD must be burnished thoroughly before setting that stone. If you burnish a stone after stone setting, the chances of stone breakage will escalate.

 

  To repeat the photo that I used at the beginning of this essay. Please burnish the bead GENTLY on the softer stones. These stones are Emeralds, Cubic Zirconia, Amethyst and other stones that are below Mohs Scale of 6. 

 The side of these Bead-burnishers can be removed on your oilstone. The chances of having the 'curved edge' break or damage that softer stone are extremely easy. 

 

 Here is how you can save your stones by removing a section of the outside edge of the beading tool.