Metal cutting is one of the most rewarding aspects of Diamond Setting. It can either be rewarding, or totally devastating. In this essay, there are many areas that need to be explored.
I avoided the many uses of 'C.A.D.' (Computer Aided Designing), I use only the Onglette graver as this is what makes our craft so interesting.
Once that the basic design plan has been initiated, then comes the intricate metal carving.
These 'inked dots' are my guide to the next stage for metal carving. These scribed dots are my "GPS" as I need to know where each new lines of cutting will commence.
I've dealt with this topic many times during my 6.5 years of my tutorial blog writings. I'll keep this essay filled with many details.
I used my Onglette graver to create a 'border' around the inner '2-bead' carving. My graver started at a mid-way point in between the two ends, as seen here.
The 'new ends' are in line with the points at the inner cutting.
With this pattern, I used my Milgrain and created a 'knurled edge'. This serves no purpose except for additional decoration.
I showed you a "two beaded" pattern, you can now see a '3-pointed' pattern, but with a difference.
That difference is where I can set a genuine Emerald, there is no risk of damage as all of the metal carving has been done ahead of time.
With the 'rounded bottom point' of the Onglette graver, I can now easily move the metal. If the 'rounding' wasn't created, the new bead would be instantly cut off or even ruined.
If you look closely, you will see a clean path right behind the new bead. That is where the Onglette graver was making the bead, nice eh? All is remaining is to burnish the bead and make it 'rounded'.
Where there are 'three little Triangles' is now where the Bead-Raiser Onglette #2 with a rounded point that will move the metal well over the edge of the Girdle.
BTW, the triangle on the lower right is still too large. Remove the Emerald and trim the metal to make it smaller.
With an Onglette #1 or #2, I'll 'rough-cut' two lines on an angle in between the two holes being shown in this photo. I will cut these grooves multiple times and each time digging a bit deeper.
The end result is being shown in this photo. I will now use my Flat graver and Bright-Cut the metal into a fanciful pattern of lines.
I'm now using a fine Onglette #1 and create 4 little corners on each hole, what are they for? These will eventually be Beads to be moved over the stone!!!
But the pattern cannot be made when the gemstone is in the metal.
This inner pattern is like a little 'pyramid' with four-sided, bright-cuts adding to the decorative pattern. Where the lines have been rough-cut will be Bright-Cut and the end result is just outstanding.
The graver cutting is very difficult to the uninitiated, but after (many years) loads of practice, this task becomes easy.
"METAL CARVING" IS NOT AN EASY TASK, IT WASN'T EASY FOR ME WHEN WAS I STARTING MY APPRENTICSHIP, circa (early) 1960's.
But after many years it became 'second-nature' to me, so it will be come 'second-nature' to YOU. My email address is: => gerrylewy18@gmail.com
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