Are your "GEMSTONE CLAWS" secure & tight? (9 photos)

 These techniques are so very important that I will attempt to explain many of the common errors in this 'Diamond Setting blog'.

(Please excuse my rough drawings.) 

IN THIS PHOTO YOU CAN SEE THAT ALL OF THE TOPS OF THE CLAWS ARE SMOOTH.

 These arrows display how the stone is properly mounted, with no spaces anywhere. There is complete contact between the diamond and the metal. I was taught this setting method 65 years ago.

1) 'THIN & WORN' CLAW TPS                                     

  While wearing the engagement ring continually, the claws will eventually wear away.

 The claws (when polished often) will get so thin that the diamond will get lost.

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2) 'DAMAGED, & BROKEN' TIPS 

 Occasionally a claw will break off, this is due to a poor mixture of the gold

 while in the casting process. It's 100% advisable to replace the complete 

setting with a new 'head'.

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3) 'HOOKED' CLAWS

 Here are two instances of 'hooked claw' tips. Both of them are 'disasters waiting to happen'. The Pavilion of the stone is not well positioned correctly (observe the red spot).

 In this photo is showing how the diamond is not set correctly.

 A novice, or an inexperienced jewellers might not select the correct bur to set 

a multi-thousand dollar diamond. They might not make the wrong 'bearing' 

to set the stone, these claws ARE WEAK and won't be secure against the stone. 

'Hooked' claw tips do not fit any size or shape of any stone.

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4) 'LIFTED CLAWS' AWAY FROM THE STONE  

  If the claws are not fully pressed down, there will be a good chance that the claw will weaken much faster than anticipated. 

 The ensuing result is that the claw tip will 'catch' the wearers clothing and pull the claw away. This will cause her to loose the expensive diamond, these claws offer little protection or security to the diamond.

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5) NO 'CLAW BEARINGS'  FOR THE GEMSTONE

The worst thing to happen is that there is 'no security' or a correct bearing being made for the gemstone. A claw without the proper 'bearing' angle will not support the underside (Pavilion) of the diamond. The result is that the claw will allow the stone to slide further into it's setting. It's like building a house with 'a poor foundation'.

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6) 'UNPOLISHED CLAWS'

 Do not make shortcuts to avoid metal polishing. Either you set the stone correctly or give it to a qualified & professional Diamond Setter.

The CLAWS MUST BE FULLY POLISHED BEFORE ANY STONE SETTING.

 (Rushing to get the job done fast is not the way we were taught) agree? 

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"CORRECT DIAMOND SETTING"

1) The claw tip should be placed securely down unto the stone. 

The claw tip MUST rest against or on the 'Crown Facets'.

2) The bearing angle should fit tightly against the Pavilion and must adhere to the overall shape of the stone.

3) The underside of the claw-bearing will have many decades of use. The claws MUST BE THICK to stand continual wear.

4) The claws MUST BE SMOOTH to the touch with absolutely no sharp corners, or edges.

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