Bright-Cutting, the "V"-shaped corners on a Princess ring. (11 photos)

 I learned in my earlier Diamond Setting years (circa 1964) to "Bright-Cut" the inside of the  4, "V-shaped" corners.

 I know that some 'setters' don't do this sort of 'finishing' either they weren't taught this basic Princess Setting procedure. The other reason they feel that it isn't really necessary, I FEEL IT IS (absolutely) WARRANTED.

 I had a 1-carat 'Princess' diamond to be set, the setter didn't do this very important finishing. I was so terribly hurt, that I had to Bright-Cut the inside of the 4 claws again, myself. All that this 'mature setter' did was to just 'file the outside of the claws' (I asked him to assist me in some extra setting).

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 In this tutorial essay, I will explain this final technique. This essay will not be displaying how the stone is set, this will be found in my previous 'blog' essays.

The previous essays on Princess Setting are dated Dec.22, 2022, & Sept.15, 2019.

 Of all of the essays in this blog, this alone is worth your absolute patience in reading and following my teaching.

  These are the available Flat gravers that every tool supplier has in his office.

  

   These are the same tools but to emphasise the widths.

 This photo displays my modified pair of 'gripping' pliers. I used a Corundum Emery wheel to engrave 'notches' into the front end of the pliers. These will grip & tighten securely, without slipping off the tips of the claws.

 These 4 claws are at this point, moulded over the 4 corners holding the stone securely.

 These are my 'modified' pliers very carefully tightening the stone. DO NOT TIGHTEN ACROSS ONE END TO THE OTHER CLAW. Always on one side, as shown here.

 These claws are now (slightly) trimmed to the shape of the stone. You can see the thickness of the metal being used, I need this just for my 'Bright-Cutting'.

 As the 4 corners are the most delicate areas of the stone, the metal MUST PROTECT the stone from accidental breakage.

 In this one photo, I made a simple cut to create a 'corner split'. This 'split' is the start of the Flat graver cutting a corner facet.

 From one end of the "V" corner claw to the other, the Flat graver will cut a Facet into the corner. 

 Once this is completed, you can then trim with your Triangular file with a grit of #4 to thin the outsides.

 Pumice wheel with #180 grit and then a #1,000 grit 'soft' PINK to finish this whole simple exercise. Try to avoid any 'aggressive cloth wheel polishing' as some of the surrounding beads might be damaged.

 Which 'finishing' do you like? The ring with ultra-thick claws that cover much of the stone, or the stone with the thin detailed finishing? This style of finishing was crafted with a FLAT graver!