23 Diagrams & 23 Photos of Gemstone Setting (errors & solutions).

 The following diagrams may be seen as rudimentary, but they show the basics of Gemstone Setting.

 As always, I try to give you the readers, what Diamond Setting is all about and why certain techniques are (and continually) used.

 Furthermore, I hope that you are fully aware of why 'we' as 'technical advisors' in Diamond Setting, always follow these techniques & procedures.

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 This is the best photograph of a "Princess-Cut" square stone, why is that? All four claws are well situated against the gemstone with no spaces anywhere to be seen, just a beautiful example of setting a stone. 

 Of course, the claws were not cleaned, but in my estimation, I'm more interested in the 'setting process'.

My bent plier-jaws are tightening the two sides of the "VEE" shaped claws..equally.

 You can see that I used a "Corundum Wheel" and cut grooves into them to grip the claws, without any slipping.

 There isn't anything good about this anticipated setting.

1) The stone is not having a "rectangular" shape and it just won't fit into the head. 

2)  Square stone is of the wrong shape. 

3) The stone has little relationship to the head of the Engagement ring.

4) The four claws are not aligned to the corners of the stone.

 You can see where the 'round' burring has started to prepare for the next step of setting, but not yet!

  I'm using a round bur to initiate the many (6) bearing steps.

 On the "right side of the "VEE" claw, you can see the first bearing cut. Then the "left side" of the claw comes next.

 This stone is too small for this claw setting, the reason is that the claws are bent out of shape.

 Don't be anxious about setting your stone without preparing the claws for setting. Once you put the stone in, there is just no way can any cleaning & polishing can be initiated.

  In this photo, you can see up close just how straight & vertical the 4 claws are.

 Before any stone in any "shared-claw" procedure, cleaning out the metal from inside the 2-claw setting is mandatory.

 Your round bur will do the necessary 'cleaning of the holes'.

 This 'round bur cleaning' will give the Pavillion a clean resting place for that gemstone.

 

 In this "Shared-Claw" photograph, the claw tops should be just at the same height as the "Table" of the stone. (my diagram drawings were not 100% accurate)

 How does the stone stay secure with ONLY ONE CLAW? 

I have a simple solution, let's discuss this now!

 With a Flat Graver of a #40 width, create a deep 'sliver of metal' just where the "Star-Facet" is located. Let the graver dig into the 'inside claw' and secure this stone from getting loose.

 Here this diagram is showing the placements of slivers of metal. Always start the 'prong-setting' with the center, upper level stone. 

 Just to make your life more interesting, you can create these slivers on both sides of the stones to the claws.

     Can you see these slivers of metal on the two, inside-claws?

 I honestly suggest that you set the center stone first, why? The full process of setting all of the stones is now about to start. 

 If you start with the (middle) second row of stones, the claws will move and give you many 'stone tightening problems'.

 Here is a very good photo of the sliver of metal holding the stone in place. Once this stone has been secured, the stone will never get loose again.

Although this is only a Cubic Zirconia stone, breakage can happen to either a simulated stone or a Diamond, how did this happen? The offending metal rested against an unprotected corner of the stone. "Goodbye stone". 

 Here is a great (prepared) photo of Bright-Cutting being done on the inside of the Rectangular gemstone. 

 Could you explain to me and the others who are reading this essay, just how can the inside half-bezel get to be cleaned? My only answer is to use a "Flat graver #40". 

 

 This delicate cutting should start at the mid-point and cut towards the corners. The cutting MUST be at a 45-degree angle to arrive at a bright angle. Your filing with Triangular file #4 should come next.

 The next two photos are being used as a "Before & After".

Preparing these two photos was a series of "how-to" and enjoying the results.

 

 This photo will show how high the "V" claws should look. The little "extra curl of metal" was from the angled filing at a 45-degree angle.

 The 'tip of the claw' must not exceed the height of the "Table Facet".

 The beginning of the 'claw tip setting' is showing the inner corner not touching the stone. 

   This important photo shows EXACTLY how the "Bright-Cutting" is accomplished.

 This one process is not easy, as it is at "20, out of 10" on my Difficulty Scale. 

 Always start the graver cutting on the "V" claw and aim your graver cutting toward the corner. The cutting is always at a 45-degree angle.

 For the process of "Shared Claws", the very first operation is to 'open & clean' the spots where the Pavillion of the stone will be resting against.

 

  I suggest you 'pre-polish' all areas of this setting BEFORE any stone goes in. Pre-polishing will remove any aberrations due to casting.

 I use a Bud-bur and clean in between the two, "Shared-Claws".

 The most idyllic way of finding a simpler method of determining the depth of a stone is to look where the teeth of the bur are located. 

 Where the teeth of the bur start are where the surface of the metal is located. From that point, allow the widest section of the cutting to be where the "Girdle" of the stone will be.

 That is now going to be where the bearing will be now cut. How easy is that?

 How would you tighten a "Princess, Square-cut" stone? You now have 8 sides to move over the Girdle of the stone. Please don't use a metal pusher, this could make a disaster out of the setting. I only ask you to use a pair of "pointed-pair of pliers".   

 On each side of the "VEE", are two sides to envelope that one corner of the stone. "You should not bring together the four "VEE" shaped claws", diagonally!

 If you try to do this to your stone that's worth thousands of dollars, it very easily could get chipped. There could be huge amounts of stress put on that stone and on YOU.

  I have always in my experience in preparing to under-cut a four claw/prong setting. I tell my students to initiate the cutting with a "bud-shaped" bur, not a round bur, why is that?

 

 If you use a round bur, the chances of having an "even line" are greatly reduced. I use a bud bur, as this "Bud-shaped" bur now will guide your cutting a bearing and will give you a favourable result. With this bud-bur, you can start using your High-Speed Steel cutting bur.  

 After this is done, there will be a sliver of metal shaving from the rotating HSS bur. Please don't worry, as this occurs 100% on all claws, this is no exception.

 

 I use a FLAT graver and clear away this 'sliver of metal', if you use a file #4 grit, you will have a serrated edge to Pumice Wheel clean afterward. Just a waste of time.

 How do you tighten an OVAL stone? The easiest answer is that you should use your hammer and follow the sequence of hitting that I showed you, honestly this works 100+ % of the time.

 In between the "1-6 numbers" just shown, is where you lightly 'tap repeatedly' to smooth the metal down over the stone.

  The directions for this exercise are the same, BUT I will "Bright-Cut" the inside of each Gypsy Setting. This will give you a nice clean finish on all of the stones.

 Here are another few stones on this Gypsy-Flush ring. You can see that I haven't forgotten my "Bright-Cutting" process on any of them.

 I inserted my name on many of these hand-drawn diagrams, for one reason and that is that I drew them, please honour my labours.

 If you want to copy them just remember who drew them, agree?

 

 Don't leave thick and bulky looking "VEE" shaped claws, this detracts from the beauty of the ring.

 I'd like to trim the claws extensively in making all 4-claws made thinner. The stone security will still be there and this still will be appealing. I like to file at a 45-degree angle the outside of the 4 claws and even "Bright-Cut" inside of the claws.

 Do not have ANY METAL TOUCHING THE STONE, especially at the corners.

 I told my students to grind a hole right at the center of the "V" shaped corner. Now you can bend all of the metal without risking any damage to the stone. Good idea?

  This style of preparation is rated at "15, out of 10, on my Difficulty Level". The most terrifying problem could be when you forget to drill out the corners on the "V" claws. All you can say is "Damn" as you can see some of the "diamond corners" break away from the stone.

 From each center hole to the end must be cleared away by using a bud bur as shown. The same carved line allows the metal to be cut at the same angle for the Pavillion of the gemstone. 

 "Precautionary action, with your preparation" will give you satisfactory results".

 I use this unusual method of tightening stones, especially with cluster tops. What my FLAT graver does, is shaving off a sliver of metal down and have that sliver rest against the "STAR-FACETS" of the stone.

 This is self-explanatory, if the Culet of your delicate stone is protruding from underneath, please don't put it on a mandrel. 

All steel-mandrels must and should be bought with a groove, this is the reason for having them.

 The mandrel allows for this protruding & extended Culet. 

  

When you are attempting to Bezel-Set any stone, please make darned sure that ALL OF THE METAL is over, and against your stone. There must not be any sort of spaces between the Bezel-Frame and the "Star-Facets". 

 Another point is to use a hammer that is not too heavy, or too light in weight. My well-used hammer has a weight of only 85.0 grams. Your hammer should just tap, but not ruin the Bezel wall.

 If you see that there are spaces underneath any of the claws, what would you do to close the gaps?

 I was taught by my teacher, exactly 65 years ago how to remedy this problem. Have your saw blade of #4/0 width, nothing wider, and start your cutting from the "Table Facet" to the "Girdle".

 Once the new cut has been established, examine with your 10X- power loupe and look to see if all of the protruding pieces of metal have been gingerly removed. Then and only then, can you carefully lower the claw towards the gemstone.

 If are hesitant about always using the "77B" cup bur to make all of the claw tips rounded, here is another method that is a much more interesting technique.

 Use your "Triangular File" with a #4 cut, and reshape the claw tips as shown in this diagram.

 Have the "sides of each claw parallel to each other"...then "file across the front of that claw". On the outside tip, you can "half-round off as to make it smooth to the touch".

 Please use your Pumice Wheel with a #180 grit, only to remove any sliver of the metal that is remaining from the delicate filing.

  With your Flat graver of #40 thickness, REMOVE all of the remaining slivers of metal from the "High Speed Steel" cutting bur. If you avoid doing this procedure, there is no possibility of removing this metal once the diamond is in the setting.

  This final cleaning is what makes a qualified Jeweller into a professional Diamond Setter.

  In the very front of any claw/prong, there will be an unsightly rough remnant of 'setting the claws'.

  It has become my habit of creating a "Semi-Bright" finish on these 4, or 6-claw tips. The only method is to use a "Tapered, Pumice Wheel of #180 grit" to create a smooth and clean metal surface.

 If it's required, you may use this Pumice wheel to clean any aberrations on the sides of the claws.

These drawings were created directly from the "BENCH" magazine 2, 1/2 decades ago. These drawings show the correct angles prior to setting, the editor "Bradney Simon" only showed the location of the burs.

 

  I ALWAYS explain the "what happens if & why".

 When you are starting to set a large diamond or even a gemstone NEVER USE A 156C (Carbide) "Undercutting Bur", or "Bearing-Cutter". The teeth are not able to cut deep into the metal, the HSS bur literally digs deeper into the metal,  thus giving you a better chance of preparing an acceptable "step, or bearing" for that large stone.

 

 DO NOT EXCEED 50% of cutting into the metal of the claw. If you do, there will be a weakness at that point of the claw. 

  In closing, in this extended instructional essay, I needed to cover as many areas as possible. I'm only hoping that your Diamond Setting is much more enjoyable and 'stress-free'.