BUD burs & Onglette gravers => 12 photos

 This ultra-small, bud-shaped bur measures only 0.55 mm in size. Now compare this to the larger size of 5.00 mm in diameter.

 The purpose of these 'bud burs' will be decided upon by the jeweller or setter to consider.

 The tools are there to 'pick and choose'. I always think that if one bur has been used only once, at least it's been a good choice in buying it, agree?

  This Onglette graver has all of the essential particulars stamped on the side. The #4/0 refers to the width of the blade. "Glardon" is the manufacturer. "HSS" denotes that the steel blade is of high tensile strength.

 All kinds of metal cuttings can be delegated to an Onglette & Flat gravers. None of the flat surfaces has been computer-designed.

  If you need to quickly reduce the thickness from the tip of this Flat graver, the easiest method is to use your 'coarse-grit' grinding wheel. It's far better than removing the whole blade and reinserting it back into the handle. I'll use this technique many times at a moment's notice.

 These are my favourite Onglette gravers that I use in "Bright Cutting". Although some of them appear to be thick or even thin, the reason is what those needs are.

 

 Every graver point has to be highly polished and not have any 'textured surface'. These rough surfaces will reflect onto the metal surface.

 

 What are these numbers, and what do they represent?

The "6" is the number of lines that will do the Florentine Cutting.

The "16" is the width of the and that is similar to the "10" being narrower.

 

  These are the sample blades that are seen in any tool supplier.

  I've seen some engraving blades that are not to be used. When I shape my blades, they will be cut & shaped as seen in this photo.

"It's not only the blade that will do the cutting, it's my choice of what I can make this blade do for me". 

 You have to be inventive and choose which blade will serve you or me best.

 As seen in my previous 'tutorial essays, here is my "1,200 grit" polishing paper being used. I will make an effort to make all of my blades 'bright & shiny'.

 Here is a comparison photo of two Onglette graver blades. My choice will be using the graver on the left, as this is what will give me the best results.

 The graver on the right is just 'average & mediocre', and I can't expect any good results from it. There are still many sections of the blade not able to give me a worthwhile cutting surface.

 I HOPE THAT THIS TUTORIAL ESSAY HAS BEEN OF SOME SERVICE TO YOU. Gerry Lewy