Emerald-Cut stone in an 'END-BEZEL' setting => 14 photos

 In this essay, I won't delve into "How to prepare this stone for setting". I will only discuss "How to tighten and finish the two Side & End-Bezels".

 When you are attempting to set a synthetic or even a genuine stone always be mindful of those delicate corners. These are the most fragile areas anywhere on the stone. Any misguided pressure will cause the stone to break, as it's seen below.

  What 'we' are aiming for is to bring together the 4 end-bezel walls. This alone could take me much explaining. The next word I'll use is 'equally'. So sit back, have a cuppa tea or coffee, enjoy & learn.

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 There are 6 sides to this Emerald-Cut bezel. The first question is what tools do 'we' use to secure & tighten this stone?

 

  In this photograph, you can see that there are 4 'end-bezels' that are not fully against the stone. How is this corrected and of course, efficiently?

 

 My answer is very easy, as these strange-looking pliers can be bought from any tool supplier. This will allow you to move the two sides together in one simple gripping motion.

 These plier jaws (shown here) cannot equally 'bring together' the two end bezel-claws at the same time. Why not? The construction of these jaws prevents such a necessary tightening from occurring. 

 No matter how you hold these pliers, 'equal tightening on both sides' just isn't going to happen.

 First of all, the jaws are tapered and not looking clumsy as the above-shown pliers. 

 All of the 'power in moving the metal' is put into a smaller area with much more ease.

 There are 8 pressure points on this open-sided bezel setting. Only these 'bent jaw pliers' will aid you in moving these areas together.

 Once the bezel-ends are against the stone. I will then use my Reciprocating Hammer and gently tap the metal down against the stone. DO NOT HAMMER on the top of the Bezel Wall.

 There is no need to flatten the metal as we need this thickness for "Bright-Cutting".

 This diagram explains what the next two steps will be. These will be Bright-Cutting and Bezel-Trimming.

 The inside of the bezel wall should be cleaned by Bright-Cutting. Why is this done? We are talented craftspersons and whatever we do should be done with skill and using our talents.

 The file trimming is done by using a Triangular file with a #4 grit.

 The outside edge of the bezel wall should not remain with a sharp edge but filed at a 45-degree angle.

  This photo displays where the Bright-Cutting occurs. 

 Everywhere that there are 'corners and flat surfaces' these need to be made smooth.

 This is where the Bright-Cutting areas need to be crafted. You will notice that the top of the bezel wall is not finished FLAT, but remains always at an angle of 45 degrees.

 On the sides of the bezel wall, these corners seem to be tilted. That was not done on purpose, this was caused by the squeezing of the bezel wall and the action from the pliers. 

 When you are trimming these end jaws, I greatly suggest straightening the file angles to perpendicular.

 

 On every flat surface, I suggest using a Pumice wheel of #180 grit to remove any pliers or casting marks.

 After this has been completed you may use your cloth wheel or a Flat surface lapping wheel.

 If there are additional deep marks on the metal I could suggest using your "Medium grade, Snap-on-Emery wheel". This wheel will make the ring surfaces so much smoother.

  The Difficulty Level on this project is 8 out of 10. 

 One word of caution is to keep your cutting tools and files clean from remaining pieces of metal. Cleanliness is so important in these projects.