"SILVER SOLDERING", circa 1946 => 3 photos

"HANDY & HARMAN" printed a brochure for jewellers in 1946. (This was ONLY a mere 80 years ago) I bet some of these readers weren't even born yet?

 I think it might be something to remember what life was like for jewellers who were trying to solder. 

These images describe how different the 'safety measures' were back then.

I've had this brochure in my home library since the early 1950's. 

Why use 'Adjustable Graver Handles"? => 6 photos

 In the earlier days, all the setters had were little round balls of wood with a hole in the centre. Thankfully, we've advanced to an easier method to hold our gravers.

 Many times, the engraver or setter had to fashion the handle to fit their hand or fingers.

 BTW, the multi-screw handle (shown on the right) securely holds the graver and prevents the blade from unexpected movement.

  I drilled little holes into the wood. It was my earlier method of 'graver <=> handle' identification.

 The centre handle shows where the handle broke while inserting a new blade. This could never happen in an 'Adjustable' graver handle.

 Now compare this handle, which is completely adjustable for any length of blade.

 These basic wooden handles had a limited lifespan when the holes used to hold the graver were worn out..."Goodbye, new wooden handle."

 If the graver was hammered too heavily to get the blade into the wood, it would literally split and render the new handle unusable or ruined.

  It isn't the length of the graver as shown here, it's the amount of 'life' that the user can get from it.

 Only an 'adjustable' graver handle can give the setter, or engraver, what is required. I could get months or a year from one blade.

 If you only had one handle to use, then that one handle could be bought to suit your ongoing requirements.

 

 

How was your diamond 'polished & shaped'? => 14 photos

 These blog photos are from our family archives, as my Father (of Blessed Memory) was a diamond polisher in Belgium, circa 1927. I still have many of his 'polishing tools' at my home for you to see.

 This was the earliest rendition of a diamond weighing scale, dated from 1943 in London, England.

 

 Here are loupes dating from London, England, circa 1940s. In fact, I used them extensively during my apprenticeship days in Toronto. Canada.

 

  To accurately measure the angles of the Pavilion Facet during the 'polishing processes', the technician had this gauge on hand to accurately check the angles of the Pavilion.  

 The three fellows shown in this photo were 'girdling the facets' during the shaping process. 

The man on the right was my Father (of Blessed Memory).

  With the ongoing aid of a 15x power loupe, all of the facets have to be thoroughly examined during the shaping techniques.

 When the diamond is inverted, the technician can correct any aberrations of the Table Facet. If there are any errors, the stone is inverted and recut or repolished on the diamond wheel that has Diamond powder impregnated on the steel wheel. 

 As I don't have any Diamond Wheels with diamond dust available after 95 years, I'm just simulating the actions if there were a wheel to reshape the gemstone.

 In this view of the Pavilion Facet being recut & reshaped, the name of this tool is a "Dobb"; it can hold the stone very securely. Of course, no fingers can hold the stone as tightly as this tool can provide.

 

 I placed a genuine Emerald in this same holding device to display how this Emerald can be held in place. You will notice that only ONE FACET IS RECUT, ONLY ONE FACET AT A TIME.

 These two sharp blades are used to split the raw crystal into two separate pieces. Just one sharp tap of the blade with a hammer will divide the stone in half.

 Thus, having two stones remaining to be shaped at a later date.

 The "Table Facet" of the stone is secured on the tube underneath and exposing the Culet Facet to be either removed or have the "Pavilion Facet" shaped. 

 This is a diamond crystal being made ready for the long process of being shaped and cut. This long process could take either days or weeks, depending on the size of the stone. Imagine that after just one facet that was completed, a full examination of that new facet will be made and checked for angles.       

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800x Power Magnification of an unset diamond => 6 photos

 Here is an unusual display, not every day will you see such great magnification as these photos. It is also very uncommon to capture pictures of diamonds in their 'unpolished' condition.

 I'm displaying the very same diamond that my Father practised his new profession as a Diamond Polisher 95 years ago.

 These tools have never been seen in trade magazines either. What a legacy.  

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 This is "Diamond Powder", which is the only compound that will be used to cut & shape other diamond crystals. Only a diamond will shape another diamond.

 The colour of this diamond is of no consequence, but it is still a diamond in its raw state. You can see a few of the new facets being created.

 

  Here is a prime example of a partly completed faceted stone. As only a few of the 'Girdle Facets' have been gently cut & shaped.

 After "Bruting", which is a name for the shaping of the new Girdle, you can see the rough texture of the crystal.

Here are two pictures of diamonds, one on the left is a man-made or 'lab-created' stone. The crystal on the right is what Nature created millions of years ago.

 The name of these lab-created stones is "HPHT," which means High Temperature (of 2,000 Celsius and High Pressure 725,000 PSI).

 Here is a remarkable photo displaying a Laser-engraved ID on the Girdle Facet. Instead of carrying a paper sheet with all of the pertinent details. The ID is a number that the GIA has on file in its office, and anyone can view it in seconds.

 A few weeks ago, my friend came to my 'home office' to verify the diamond, and we both viewed the ID with my digital microscope.

  In closing, you have just seen the most interesting & original photos that I've put together. These have not been plagiarised from other sources.

"Handpiece Repair Service"

 My great friend gave me his business card, as I have been a close friend of his for many years. I derive no fees from him in promoting his 'handpiece repair service'.

  When you make initial contact with him, kindly use my name as a reference. Gerry Lewy!

 

Why are there 58 facets on a Diamond ? => 9 photos

  Nearly all diamonds have 58 facets. Just what is their purpose?

 In this informative diagram, you have both the official names and locations of all of the facets.

1) I was taught that the Bezel Facet was shaped like a kite. Therefore, the second name was also a "Kite Facet".

2) If the Girdle is too wide (or thick), instead of reducing the carat weight, the 'faceting technician' will suspend the operation of 'polishing the diamond' to achieve more brilliance. 

 This detailed photo gives names to the diamond and is used as a guide to achieve the exact proportions, when needed.

 There are 'double-claws' on each corner of this stone. Why is this? I can only offer you some worthwhile words. "Security & Safety" of the stone. Instead of 4 large & bulky claws, the designer created 8 claws that even have a space in between these 'double set' of claws.

 The designer opted for four, 'tear-shaped' claws. My preference would be four round-shaped claw tips instead.  Thus exposing more facets of the stone.

 

 

  Having claws that cover the "Upper-Girdle Facets" adds additional security to this 'Fancy-Cut stone'.

  This displaying technique is used in handling a diamond of this size. Therefore, the stone stays clean at all times & no fingerprints.

    

 Messrs Tolkowsky was the official originator of the "Modern Cut".

 When all of the facets are accurately cut, then and only then will light bounce back to the viewer.

 These names of the diamonds have changed throughout the decades and years. Here are the official names for your library.

What are the shapes of diamonds => 7 photos

  This photo, which I found on Google, shows the many shapes of diamonds.

    You can see on these diagrams that these stones come in a variety of shapes with their own specific "G.I.A." names.

 Baguette gemstones have ONLY 14 facets. Why is this? They are called a "Step-Cut" as the sides of these stones look like steps. Even with "Tapered Baguettes", these stones are also created with 14 facets EACH.

 This photo was not AI-created; it shows the reflection of light throughout the gemstone.

  ALL round stones will have 58 facets, giving full brilliance. Light enters the "Table Facet" and is then reflected back to the wearer.

 As seen with these Cubic Zirconias, these are created in a multitude of colours.

  Every gemstone will enable light to 'enter and exit' with no errors due to the accurate shaping & cutting processes. 

What are the techniques setting gemstones in cluster-type claws? => 18 photos

 I've covered this topic on numerous occasions, and nevertheless, it needs to be written again and again.

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  The safest bur is to use an "HSS" (High Speed Steel) bur as shown here. These burs have the teeth spaced further apart than the Carbide, as shown in the first photo.

 It is advantageous to create a slot in the claw, as this will be the best technique to prepare the claw for drilling.

These HSS burs will cut a Pavilion seat with the same (43-degree) angles as that of the stone.

  Not every diamond has a thin Girdle; many of them were found with a thick Girdle, and the technician kept much of the mass. 

  In this diagram, you can easily see the correct process, or technique of setting a diamond in a 4-claw setting. You can see that the 'Table Facet' is slightly higher than the claws.

 If the claws were higher, there would be problems in having the client's fingers getting caught in the metal.

 The Girdle of the stone must be well planted into the metal. The Girdle must always be secured, and the Girdle must adhere to the claws at all times. All 4 claws must be well-countoured and to the angle of the stone.

 No matter the size of the stones, the 'finished product' is essential. In this example, the 'shared claws' should secure the stone in the stone settings.

  Even in the 'claw-making' technique, as seen here, the final setting is still very important. The claws must always be well placed in the stone settings. Even if the gemstones are ultra-small, the stone setting techniques are exacting and so very critical.

  In the process of setting a 'cluster ring', there is no deviation from the claws being moved towards the stone.

THERE ARE NO SHORT-CUTS, 'ANYWHERE OR ANYTIME'.

  My own "RULE OF STONE SETTING" is to set the stones on the lower level first.

 Many decades ago, I found that putting stones into the metal was the easiest part. To secure the stones was with a Flat graver #40 and literally scrape a shard of metal over the girdle of each stone. In essence, only one claw is seen holding that one stone, nice eh?

 Here is my cluster ring being worked on. Normally, I wouldn't have such an array of rings on my bench-peg, but for this essay, I'm making exceptions.

 

  These claws will never be left with the large amount of metal as shown. It is much easier to 'move a claw' when it is high than to have the claw made to look like a little mound of metal.

 You can easily see that the stone is sitting deep in the claw setting. The Pavilion of the stone is resting securely in the claw.

  The centre stone is not the last stone to be set in this multi-claw configuration. I'll explain my reason for using my pair of pliers that have a 'pointed & bent' tip.

 For convenience and ease of moving the claws, I discovered that the tip of the pliers rests against the middle layer of claws.

 

 In moving the outer claw, only one jaw is actually doing the hard work. The inner jaw of the pliers is locking the jaw inside the set of claws. It's easier to see the photo than to text the technique.

 In every set of claws, there must be room for the Culet and the Pavilion to rest. This process must never be overlooked.

  In this final photo, the photo also mentions that the 

CULET MUST NEVER EXCEED THE DEPTH OF THE 

CLAW SETTING. 

 If the Girdle of the stone is very thick, then I would suggest modifying the claw to accommodate the Girdle of the stone.