Where would you use the "Emery, Snap-On" Disks? => 16 photos

 There are many reasons for these Emery Wheels; here are a few of them. First of all, the grit texture that I constantly use is "Medium grade." They also come in "Fine" and "Course." 

 Your needs may be different from mine, but each jeweller has their own specific 'grit' requirements.  

 The diameter of these wheels is "7/8th of an inch" and always keep a vast supply on hand. 

 The nice part of these disks is that I can turn the Emery buffing to the reverse side. This is only if I need to be more comfortable in holding the Emery wheel.

In this photo is a group of Emery wheels that are Coarse, Medium and Fine grits. Instead of removing every wheel from each mandrel, I suggest buying one mandrel for each disk. 

 The very popular brand of Emery wheels/disks is "Moore". 

 When I need to buy a few months' supply, I won't buy a dozen of them, I'll buy a hundred at a time. I don't want to keep running to my tool supplier and wasting my time for a few disks.

As you can see those numbers are the grit, as in "P-220".

 This is a photo of a new and untouched disk and ready to be used.

 This disk is ready to be discarded, it's done its hard work...' good-bye'

 

  You can now hear the mandrel that will give you the 'snap' tightening sound caused by the quick 'tightening & locking' of the brass centre piece.

                Various opportunities for using these EMERY disks.

 1) Many times I'd use these wheels to recut a 'twist drill' that has become badly worn. In this situation, keep the rotating speed to a minimum. 'SPEED KILLS'.

 2) I use these disks to refurbish the tip of the 'Reciprocating Hammer' anvil.

3) Instead of using a 'needle file', I always allow the Emery disk to do the filing. If I used my file, the claws might move and loosen the stone.

4) When the hammering on a Channel Setting has been completed, I prefer to remove any indentations with this Emery disk. But NEVER allow the disk to touch the stones.

5) After the 'Flush Setting' has been finished, I'd again prefer the soft paper disk to smooth the metal. As a rule, never permit the Emery wheel to come in contact with the centre stone. The rotating disk should bend during the 'finishing'.

 =>I inked the TOP of the Bezel to let me know where the Emery wheel had touched.

6) Keep the grit/texture ALWAYS at 'Medium' grit. Here you can nicely smooth the main area of the ring. The 'bending of the wheel' will easily conform with the angles of the ring. Good idea?

7) The Bezel is the most delicate area in using a 'Snap-On" Emery wheel. Why is that? One bad move with a metal file will leave 'flat spots' on the sides of the Bezel, we don't want this to happen, do we?

 As I mentioned above, the 'bending of the paper wheel' will give you the desired angles in the finishing of the bezel top.

8) No matter where on any part of the ring you are working with, stay with the same grit, but never any coarser. If you need a 'Fine' grit, so be it.

 WE ARE DEALING WITH VERY SOFT MATERIALS, keep this in your mind at all times.

    PRACTICE OFTEN IN USING THESE "SNAP-ON, EMERY DISKS". THEY WILL ALWAYS GIVE YOU A FANTASTIC FINISH.

What is a "Setters, Hold-it"? => 17 photos.

 The "Setters, Hold-it" is a manual holding device that permits the gemstone setters to have more freedom in holding their new creations. The setter can hold the clamp against the bench peg and thus have more freedom than a 'ball clamping' system.

 The word that I kindly refer to is the overall 'weight' of this clamp.

1) These 'ball systems' are quite heavy as they were never intended to be held or suspended against the jewellers' bench-pin.

2) The simple word is 'flexibility', I had the opportunity to use this system for a few days and immediately returned it. (Screw-tighten and unscrew it) many times just to rotate the piece of jewellery 'Precious time was constantly being wasted'.

3) The "Setters Hold-It" is lightweight, it's easy to hold and rotate.

 I bought the "Setters, Hold-it" clamp and never looked back. I experimented with it at my tool supplier office, and it was a wonderful success!

 But, 'everything is not always perfect' and I overcame a few problems by using other essential 'clamping devices'.

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 I used an "Inside, Ring-Clamp" (official name) instead of this heavy 'ball rotating, mechanism'. The setter can't easily rotate the ring against the bench pin when needed. There are limiting positions with this particular mechanism.

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 I bought this "Inside, Ring Clamp" about 25 years ago and still use it today. The next group of photos displays the many uses of the "Setters Hold-It".

 

  I can quickly rotate the ring without any difficulty. I can easily shift the ring clamp against my bench peg for easier support.

 As you can see my hand & fingers are now in closer proximity to the ring. This is so important in gemstone setting, agree?

 For example, I 'Flush Set' this "Pear-Shaped' Amethyst stone without any concern about holding and leaning against a heavy mechanism.

 Any size and shape of jewellery can be secured on the top of the surface of the "Setters, Hold-It".

  This pin-clamp is even more secure than the basic 'shellac-stick'. 

 I modified every pin with little grooves created by the 'Emery, Separating Disk'. This prevents any marks from being put into the metal when the tightening process is initiated.

 This is the close-up photo showing the notches that I created on each of the pins. There won't be any chance of causing any deep indentations once the tightening has started.

 There are 'many methods' that can be used in modifying these little brass pins. In this photo, I 'modified' the round pin to a flat surface as this is much easier to grasp an unusual pattern.

 Even when applying pressure to a delicate brass (religious) coin, it will not be damaged. As you can see in this photo, the pins have a flat surface and were recut to literally grasp the disk equally around the rim.

 This is the duplicate creation of my "Guinness World Record" design. This base of the clamp can be easily extended to accommodate any diameter instead of looking for more 'clamping attachments'.

 When I wanted to set gemstones on a round disk I did something different. I put the pins against the inside of the round disk, why?

1) There won't be any damage taking place on the outside resulting in a 'squeezing action' against the metal. 

2) This ring clamp gives me more manoeuvrability.

3) Also allows me to do my "Bright-Cutting" without any undue pressure on the outside of the metal frame. 

 With this 'pin vice', I can move the round disk nearer to the edge of the clamp if needed.

The weight of the "Setters, Hold-It" is 114.18 grams.

 The weight of the "Inside, Ring Clamp" is 92.0 grams.

 (Sorry, I couldn't find the weight of those heavy 'ball-rotating clamps' at this time, but the numbers will be insanely higher). Gerry Lewy.