"TOOLS for Diamond Setting" - 30 photos

 The following tools are our 'special friends', we care for them as we use them without question.

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 Instead of using shellac for any large sized "Pieces of Art", I use this pin-vise/clamp. It's not the cost involved, but the easy of clamping it down. I've had it so long, that I forgot how much it cost. Shellac on this item is a problem in the removal and cleaning, try and avoid using it for items on this size and shape, agree?

 This is my "Inside, ring clamp", (this is the official name). I don't need any ring-clamps that squeezes the sides of the ring. What holds a ring is the 'expansion of the plastic inserts'.

 

 These are my 8-inch length files that are used in many circumstances of getting into those little areas. They come in Flat and the regular triangular shapes, as seen on #2 grit file. Those lines are painted on each file for a purpose, as when I'm stone setting.

 I can grab the correct grit and look for the "IIII" that is on the "4-grit file. The "II" is as well as a #2 grit.

                                                             "FILES"

If spacing is a problem in the marking in numbers, I can use the 'line numbers'.

These are the large "Pillar" files, all of them have been painted with the grit marked on each file. The "OO" refers to a number 2 grit, any visual aid helps me to get my finishing done faster.

Do you know what this was intended for? It was a "Shaving Brush" as the wider & smoother swath of the bristles is more gentle in my setting tray & bench.

 In Europe, long before electricity came into our lives, The operation of using a process to drill holes was initiated by this method of a 'pump drill'.

 My teacher used this same drill back in his days of learning. There was a race who could drill a hole faster, either the 'flex-shaft' or a 'pump-drill'.

 The jury took many days to decide which was better, the whole jewellery company then changed to electrical drilling. 

 I now have the very same pump-drill that my teacher used in his learning days in Ireland & London, England. This was circa 1940's.

 This ultra course file is great in removing the 'gates' from a ring. Then afterwards an Emery disk can smooth the remaining areas.

 No, this is not a bastard file, but it is a "Bastard" file. The name "Bastard" refers to the very course & depth lines of teeth.

 These strange looking files with the many 'ridges' are great in filing waxes prior to the casting processes.

 I needed a specific range of files and I bought these three (and the wax files) in a local "Dollar-Store". Great idea for a new source of setting tools.

 Many times I didn't want to spend my time searching for the numbers of the files. Many of them were so small, I wasted my eye-sight looking for one specific blade, I then just painted them.

 I almost refuse buying tools from 'other' countries, I look for the common names as seen here.

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                                                                            "GRAVERS"

 What tools can produce these metal cuttings? One word is needed, Gravers.

 

 This ornate ring was given to me to destroy and remove the diamonds, this was literally 25 years ago.

 Since then, I have used it in many essays in my blog. Look at the hand-created graver cuttings, there are Rose-Cut stones and partially rounded shapes. Each stone had carving around the girdle.

  All of my gravers came from a long piece of steel (as shown). Each of them are shaped many times on a 'bench grinder' as I want every tool to be used for many MONTHS.

 This graver face was shaped specifically to cut on the right-side. Hence the name "Right-Sided, Onglette graver", I use it solely in "Bright-Cutting".

 My 8inch oil-stone is used continually in reshaping the front of the graver face. The holding angle is also so very important, as I want the front face to be at 45degree angle. The black residue is the metal shavings that remained in the oil, or lubricant.

 My Flat graver are mostly all Swiss made and all are HSS or High Speed Steel. I use them for their rigidity and non-bending attributes while being used.

 This little magnetic tumbler is what keeps my interest if I need to maintain and high polishing before the cloth-wheel polishing or cleaning.

 This is the thickness of my Flat graver, I've seen many gravers in other videos that are so thick, I wonder how they can be used.

 Here is the 'before & after' shaping of my graver points. The #40 is my Flat graver ready for some delicate metal cutting.

 These are the "Bead Burnishers" ready for action. I shaved off the edges on some of them as the edge of the burnisher won't be touching a soft gemstone.

 Here is the "Right-Sided" Onglette graver. Only the right side is partially kept at a semi-round appearance.

 Here is my assortment of 'setting tools' kept in my bench tray. I keep the wine-coloured wooden handle always with a Flat graver. I can find it within the tray for locating in a few seconds.

 I rub my 'right-sided' graver on the polishing paper that literally cleans and maintains a high polished surface on the # 800 or #1,200 grit paper.

 This graver was shown to me while I was learning how to Bright-Cut, as I said 65 years ago. Now my dear friends it's your turn to learn my techniques.

 

 

   Hoping that it has been useful? Please pass my techniques to your friends wherever they live...and all of this is for FREE. Regards from Gerry Lewy.