How do you REMOVE MARKS from your creations? - 13 photos

  I viewed an "Orchid - Ganoksin Community" discussion group recently on the topic of "Removing marks on the surface of your creations". 

 Here are my answers to this ongoing problem, please bear with me as these techniques worked well for me and could be very useful for you. 

            What tools would you be 'needing and using' for repairing this problem?

1) Emery "Snap-On" disks @ "Medium" grit. 

2) Pumice wheels @ #240 grit. Blue colour.

3) Pumice wheels @ #1,000 grit. Pink colour.

4) Mini, needle-files.

5) Opti-Visor with a #3, or #7 lens. (This is for your ongoing inspection.)

                       The Level of Difficulty is 6 out of 10.

 These Emery disks are great in removing any deep indentations on the surface of the metal. I would use a "Medium" grade of texture, as this grit won't destroy any features on already on the surface of the object.

 

 These 'MOORES-wheels' are easy to use, all that you do is to 'snap on' a disk on to a mandrel and it stays on throughout the 'repairing' process.

 This is the 'Snap-On' mandrel, as it's commonly named. (The "E" was from a photocopy taken from an online tool supplier.

 

I  use no other brand of Emery wheels, as I'm familiar with their features.

 These are the smooth Pumice wheels, once that the Emery wheel has finished it's cleaning then these Pumice wheel should be used. They come in #240 grit (Blue colour) and #1,000 grit (Pink colour). 

 The 'bullet-shaped' dowels could be used inside the ring. These too come in two grades of grit, as discussed above.

 If you need a more aggressive cleaning, I'd suggest this type of cleaning paper spindle. Once the layer of paper is worn & finished, all you do then is to peel it off and start again.

 

Here are a series of mini-wheels for smoother rolls of paper, as seen above.

 I prefer to use my Opti-Visor at all times, I need to keep my eyes on what I'm doing. One mistake and it's back to the beginning again. OUCH!

BTW, the strengths come in #3 lens and a #7 lens. It's easier to use a #3 even in Diamond Setting situations. (I have both strengths).

 

  If by any chance that you need to use a file in the repairing, I suggest to try a series of mini-files as shown here.

 YOU SHOULD KEEP ALL YOUR OPTIONS OPEN. If you need to use a rotary mini-wheel or pumice wheels, here is a third option...these mini-files will be great for you!

 These wheels are a permanent style of abrasive cleaning wheel, but the downside is that once that it's worn down...good-bye!

 This little apparatus actually does great things 'if there is a hole in the metal'. Once that the shaft is rotating fast, the piece of Tungsten Alloy that is attached to the spindle can 'move the metal' right over the hole. 

 There is no need to plug up any hole with solder, as the solder could be another shade of colour. When the metal is filling up the repaired hole, you can smooth the metal to where it should be. The hole is then 'filled in and not to be seen again'.

 

 After the 'moving of the metal' has been completed, then comes the smoothing of the surface...again.

 Here are some Emery wheels that could be used in gentle smoothing of the 'moving of the metal'. This texture comes in "Course, Medium & Fine", but much care is needed with these wheels.

 If the need warrants a stronger hand-held file, the next option is to use a #2 (course) or a #4 grade (smooth) of file. I'm only offering you, the jeweller, different options as there are many being shown here in this essay.