Full Bezel (ROUND) stone setting for you - (25 photos)

 I'm not going to delve into how to clean the entire ring, as this is not what this essay is about. This tutorial-essay is only about the using the 'Riveting Hammer' & followed by 'Bright-Cutting' and the very important 'finishing' techniques.

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 This nice looking ring does look nice? NO, why no?

 The stone is crooked and once that it was secured, it couldn't be repaired. Mistakes like this, do sometimes happen in 'our jewellery world'. I did this 'error' on purpose just to show that errors do occur.

These are my 'favourite' setting burs, in using them is a skill all by themselves.

Once that your stone has been set into the bezel, then comes the hammering steps.

 The face of the 'Riveting Hammer' must always be clean, with no deep indentations. This is if there are noticeable marks on the hammer-face, then these marks will be transferred to the Bezel in an instant. Keep the steel face CLEAN at all times.

     This hammer face must shine like a mirror, as seen in this photo.

 

 The Hammer should always be hitting the metal at a 45degree angle. You will see 'the why' in a few moments.

 Why is the ring on a mandrel while being hammered? It is that if the ring is on a leather ring clamp, the leather absorbs the hitting pressure, plus it is better to have both hands free while doing the hammering.

 In my situation, I have one hand using the hammer and the other hand holding the camera. Not too mention that the steel mandrel is resting against my chest/body.

  I don't use a heavy & large hammer, if I did, I couldn't get to see where the 'face' is hitting the Bezel. Looking where the hammer is touching the metal, is just as important as hitting the top of the ring.

If you choose to use an 'Hammer & Anvil' combination, to work on the Bezel remember to keep the anvil still at a 45degree angle.

 

 This Anvil is not 'store bought', it is basically a 'concrete nail' shaped to exercise hitting the tip of the Bezel.

The rectangular shaped hitting ANVIL must NEVER, NEVER get too close to the stone.

    In this really up-close photo shows the thickness of the metal as it's resting on the stone.

   You can easily see the 'slight angle' of the Bezel frame. NEVER have the top of the Bezel frame to be flat.

  I roughly drew a drawing of the hammer hitting the tip of the Bezel. There must never have any spaces in between the Bezel and the stone.

  Can you see any indentations from either the Anvil or the Riveting Hammer being applied to the Bezel top? The answer is that there aren't any, on purpose. 

 

 This where the great skill of Bezel Setting is being used. 

 Bright-Cutting any Bezel setting is 100% required. Many setter just file the metal and avoid any Bright-Cutting, why is this? I have no answer, but I think that this not a good finishing technique.

 I use a Flat graver of a #40 width and cutting the metal at 3 or 4 increments around the stone.

 When you are attempting to Bright-Cut please make sure that there are 'no lines' in the metal cutting. If there are any, put the graver to the oilstone and repolish the graver face. 

 The next cutting seen behind the 'lined' area is nice and smooth, this is how it should look, agree?

 Regardless of the width of the bezel at this point, just continue withe Bright-Cutting until the 'circle of cutting' has been completed.

 

These are the remnants of the cutting, these slivers of metal actually came from the #40 Graver blade. On the right side shavings, you can see that the slivers of metal are 'clean & smooth' that is the testament to how the inner-cutting has been done.

I used a Pillar file #4  cut, to make the width of the Bezel much thinner. You can, as well use a Triangular file of #4 cut.

  Instead of using a cloth-wheel to ruin your great looking edges on the Bezel do what I always use.

I use a PINK #1,000 grit Pumice Wheel to enhance the finishing touches.

So very lightly use your "Emery, Snap-On" wheel with a "Medium-Grit" to clean areas further down from the Bezel top.

 As many of my other on-line instructors show their finished projects, their fingers are filled with polishing remnants of Tripoli and Rouge compounds. This is a very unhealthy route in displaying beautiful jewellery!! 

 Many people cringe at the sight of dirty fingers, including me!!!

 This Bezel Setting ring has been completed, I could have shown many more photos, but what you have seen is more than enough.

 I was very interested in the actual Bezel Hammering process, not the gemstone setting processes.

 You can see how much of the metal was removed post-setting. In my estimation, this ring is for anyone to wear with pride.....Gerry Lewy!