Emerald-Cut stone 'Bezel TIGHTENING & CLEANING' - 14 photos.

 This shape of stone looks similar to other 'elongated gemstones', the only difference is how and where they are set.

 In my blog library, there are similar stones and with similar setting techniques. I want to explore them in my tutorial-blog, eventually they will be of great interest to your growing compendium of gem-setting essays.

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 Once that a bearing has been carved inside of the 'half-bezel' then comes the rigorous trimming and maintaining the shape of the bezel.

  To the four bezel-ends, these need to be filed and made square, they seem to be sticking away from the stone.

My choice is a Triangular #4-cut file (plus other tools and techniques). There must not be any section of the claws not touched.

 The method of gripping the claws together is as shown in this photograph. There is equal gripping action on BOTH SIDES.

 The serrated edges on the plier jaws grip the Bezel without any (accidental) slipping.

 

These jaws of the pliers are just not good for 'equal griping', I just don't use them. Neither should you, as they close together at 45degree angles.

 

  Now compare the angles of these plier jaws, the results are 100% better for tightening. The 'gripping spots' are shown on this detailed diagram.

 Once the half-bezel frame has been (equally) closed and the stone is not moving. The 'stone tightening' then starts.

 I suggest using a "Pillar file" of #2 cut to prepare the hammering process.

  I use a "Reciprocating Hammer" that is adjusted to a 'low-impact' setting. The question is where is the hammer anvil going to touch the bezel?

 That answer is relatively easy, where you filed the metal, is where the anvil will make direct contact.

 If your delicate gem-stone is crooked, or tilted please "STOP AND REMOVE THAT STONE".

 It is imperative to "Bright-Cut" the inside of the "Half-Bezel" frame. (very few diamond setters do this) They consider this unnecessary and a waste of time, I do this delicate procedure all the time.

   I use this Flat Onglette graver of #40 in width. The effect is just spectacular as compared with not doing it.

  With your Triangular file of #4 cut, clean everywhere so that there aren't anymore marks on the Bezel frame area.

  You can see the 45degree angle on the top of the Bezel frame. This angle is from the Hammer Anvil hitting the Bezel, NEVER ALLOW THE ANVIL TO GET TOO CLOSE OR TOUCH THE STONE. The chances of breakage are rather high. Your process of Bright-Cutting has just now started.

 To keep the corners square, the cutting can be achieved by allowing the Flat graver to cut 'towards the corners'. This can be done on all of the four corners.

 After all of the filing has been completed, I use my "Emery Disk" of a 'Medium' grit and remove any and all of the little marks remaining on the ring.

 This will be followed by using the Pumice wheels of #250 and #1,000 grit wheels.