Monday 15 May 2023

Setting Gemstones in a 'Non-Claw' ring. (10 photos)


 The question arises how can I set these Blue Sapphires with no visible claws? The answer is quite simple (to a point) I must 'create' four new individual claws. That alone is the first task.

 When I had this ring given to me some time ago, I overlooked the opportunity in photographing this important setting technique. 
 
 What I MUST do is to make use of simple diagrams, then do my texting for each diagram.


 As you can see in this photo, that this Blue Sapphire is slightly crooked. This is NOT ACCEPTABLE.

 The colours of these two Sapphires have different shades of blue. I implore you to examine (prior to stone setting) the colours and keep them with one colour. I always have extra stones just for this important situation.

  Either you use a lighter shade, or a darker blue, never mix the shades together.
 
 I would use a large round bur just to prepare the Pavilion of the stone to sit in the ring.
As I need to put the stone securely into the ring.

 I need to use a "156C" (under-cutting) bur to prepare a seat for the stone. A (HSS) High Speed Bur is not advisable as it is too aggressive in this delicate bearing-cutting.

 


 On the 'selected' 6 stones, there are even 'four shades' of blue stones seen here.

 You can see that an attempt to make a seat for the stone has started, which is just above the bezel.




 Where there are 'Red Lines' I suggest that you should Bright-Cut the centre section. It will make that area cleaner looking. Please excuse my rough diagrams, drawing sketches is not my forte'.


 Always clean the 'connecting bezel' with your Flat graver, or a #4 grit Triangular file. Every piece of extra metal must be removed prior to any stone setting.



I'm hoping that this tutorial essay has been interesting and helpful to you. 

Remember to keep all of the shades of any colour that you use, please keep them separate.
gerrylewy18@gmail.com

 

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