"Wire-Claw" ring setting. (6 photos)

  In my earlier days of learning (circa 1964) this style of ring was named "Lucida". But for this essay,  let's just name it a 'Wire-Claw' ring!

 The only method that I prefer in 'closing the claws, equally' is to use pliers that come to a point and have easier access to the tips of each claw. The 'bent configuration' is much easier to grasp each of the two sets of claws.

 The very first step in this setting is to clean where the PAVILLIONS of the stones will be laying. For this, I prefer to use a round bur and make sure that all of the unwanted metal has been removed. 

I would then 'pre-polish' those inner-bezels. Everything MUST be kept clean and spotless.

 Select the size of the stones and where each of them will be sitting.

 With your 'pointed' pliers, arrange each of the 4-claws to be 'equally spaced'. In this photo, there are many, many errors in the 'claw arrangement'.

In this photo, I'm using either an Emerald or even a Blue Sapphire centre stone. 

 The most delicate few step in this delicate ring, are the positioning of the multiple claws. As it is written somewhere "THOU SHALL NOT RUSH", take your time!

 Life is too short in redoing the setting again & again. Do not push those 20 claws 'one at a time' with any brass or steel pusher, why? This will give your ring uneven looking claws. The final claw configuration must be 100% PERFECT.

 Not one claw must out of alignment. That is why I use my pointed pliers 100% of the time.

 

 I must advise you to examine each of those claws for security and being symmetrical to each other.

 THIS PROCESS LOOKS EASY, IT ISN'T. I rate this setting at 9, out of 10.

  Make sure that all of the 20 claws are DOWN ON EACH CORNER.

 The claw tips must be no higher than the 'Table' on each stone. 

 

 When the stones have been set, use your "77B, Cup Bur" as the claw-tips MUST BE ROUNDED.

 If there are any striations on any claw being seen from using your pliers, please use your 'Tapered Pumice Wheel' with a #180 grit.

 Be 100% gentle when setting the Emerald, or any soft stone.

  There is so much to think of, while setting these few stones. I think about 2-3 steps ahead of my actual setting. That is why I put the Rate of Difficulty so high.

 I examine this ring under a 10-15x power loupe, there must not be any errors anywhere and also anytime during the setting process.