Are your a repair shop or wholesaler? PLEASE READ THIS ESSAY.

 At every jeweller's bench, there comes a time when you have to repair a large diamond that was previously set into an Engagement ring. 

 Here are some very useful techniques that should be followed. These same techniques have been discussed in various trade magazines over the past many years. 

 I'm not copying them but instead, I'm using my own 60+ years of diamond-setting experience.

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 Here are some major problems (using my rudimentary diagrams) that are usually seen on a client's ring.

1) "Thin or worn claws". This ring top has only weeks remaining before the diamond will fall out. I suggest a "full retip" on the other tops.

  

2) "Broken claw tips". I personally ask you to remove this broken claw and then 'supply & solder' a newer claw.

3) "Unfinished & unpolished claws". Please have all of the claws polished on the sides and outside before setting the diamond. Once the stone is in the 4-claw head..forget it!

4) "Hooked claw tops". This is not the correct way to set a diamond. Remember that you are working with a multi-thousand-dollar gem.

5) "Lifted claw tips". Tell me where is there any security? The answer is nowhere. Either you press the claw tip down onto the stone or reset this gemstone.

6) "No bearing claws". There is no 'bearing' for the Pavillion of the stone. Every diamond must be well placed in its own claw.

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 What should a diamond that has been properly attended to have? (These notes have been written from my own experience).

1) The claw tip must be tightly pressed down & secured onto the "Crown, or Girdle Facets" of the diamond.

2) The claws MUST have smooth tops and not have any rough areas to catch the wearer's clothing. This will eventually cause a loosening of the diamond.

3) The claws must be thick & strong enough to hold the diamond for many decades of continual use.

4) The 'inside of the claw' must have the same angles as the diamond.

5) All areas of the diamond head must be highly polished prior to stone setting.

7) If the head of the ring is a 'two-piece' construction, the soldering joints must be strong and not just held in place.

8) If the head has a 'peg' underneath, then all touching of the head to the band & must be 100% secure.

9) The wedding band must be highly polished prior to the soldering of the head.

10) Are all of the 'trademarks, karat stamps & sizing' being imprinted on the ring?

11) Is the weight of the diamond notarized before being set? If not, the appraiser will ask you to remove it for an accurate appraisal form for his and YOUR records. How important is this? (I could go on for hours).

12) The 'colour of the diamond' will be greatly affected by the colour of the metal. Another reason why the diamond must be given to your appraiser loose.