What is a Diamond Setter?

Some of Gerry’s Personal Notes and Observations!!!

What is a Diamond Setter?  He is a skilled craftsperson who is aware of the following disciplines. The composition of alloys, use of levers, the tension of metals, use of fulcrums, the density of various working metals. He should have some working knowledge of soldering principles uses of abrasive compounds, Plating procedures and designing. Along with this, he is cognizant of the following topics with gemology, the study of crystals, porous materials in casting, knowledge of gemstones and their inherent hardness (Mohs Scale), load-bearing limits on Diamonds and uses of abrasive materials. Did I say our job is easy?

He should be aware of polishing techniques, how to enhance his own creations. A Diamond Setter is a designer, artist, creator of “Objects Des Arte”. A setter should not be in this trade just for the dollars, although important. He must have a true understanding of what he is making. His labours will on the most part last longer than him or her, and those items that he is working on will definitely be passed down to other generations. Once he understands this, he then is called a very skilled craftsman. In this craft, we get “instant gratification” we see in a few minutes from the results of all our labours.

It is the setter who can transform a simple ring made of Gold/Platinum into a “Piece of Art”, what many people will gladly pay top dollar for. WE are one of the persons who sometimes meet the actual wearer and hear of the kind words of praise. On any occasions, I have seen a round disk with drilled holes in a row and after 4 hours of labour transform this disk into a “Rolex” styled watch-bezel worth thousands of dollars retail. Not to also mention setting diamonds into a Cartier watch frame, with the same exacting quality. The very same instances drill over 300 holes into a Patek-Philippe watch bracelet and have this same item be worn in tandem with a thousand-dollar watch.

  During the past 150 years our tools of our trade has progressed from a bow-activated hand-drill to the electric flex-shaft motor.

  We have also progressed from Bezel Setting all diamonds to bead setting these stones and now using CAD, aka “Computer-Aided Designing”. A few decades ago, “wax setting” came into being, it has transformed much of our labour intensive setting into setting these stones into a wax mount.

 In these early years of learning the trade, he should have a mentor who will guide him through the many different avenues of setting. I had such a mentor.

He explained all the subtle nuances of bead-setting, Pave’ Setting, ”Cut-Down” and

“Fish-Tail” setting, Princess and Baguette settings. Many of his fantastic techniques were passed onto me. I added many of his ideas and ventured onward to the realm of teaching.

Diamonds also have changed in the past decades, from the “Rose-Cut” shape to “Swiss-Cut” and to the popular “Brilliant” cut. Along with these numerous shapes, jewellery designs have also changed.

 We, the craftsmen, have to change and create new methods in Diamond Setting to adjust to these new and more modern patterns. If we won’t change, we will be left behind.  Experience in setting is based upon past challenges!

Experience from the past gives the setter a new road to tread and he then turns this piece of gold into a piece of art. He has to have the feel of creating something of value.

When to make a single cut or a double Migraine line cutting. When the setter has one bead out of place, it might ruin the whole effect of what we are trying to achieve. “Bright-Cutting” is that alone…“Bright”, with no interruption of the surfaces in the continuous cut. This method took me about 2-3 years to master bringing in new methods even of polishing the gravers.

 

 Many of my “blog-pictures” show how I do the actual gem-stone setting. These words are my personal experiences and while at the setting bench.

You may email me at "gerrylewy18(at)gmail.com"