A variety of Diamond Setting Tools

                                     Diamond Setting Tools!

 Files, Gravers, High-Speed Steel Burs, Micro-Motors, Carbide burs, Posture, Lights “Opti-Visor” (plus a few more interesting items)!

For every Diamond Setter, there are certain tools we all use. If these tools are not written or discussed, then the operator will surely find themselves wondering what has just happened? Poor quality will ensue and the blame will not be from their tools, but by their own sheer negligence.

  Let's first start on the list with “Files”, these implements normally will last for a few decades, as mine are now doing. These are not cheap, but over a course of many setting projects, they can pay for themselves in a few setting projects. Measure the file as the end of the tool sits comfortably into the palm of your hand and not extend further than then first joint of your middle finger. These are an “extension of your fingers & hand”...they are your new friends, treat them as such!

 I use only a Pillar file #2-cut, at 8 inches in length (or 20 cm’s). The next file is my Triangular file #4 cut with the same length. For convenience, I use a black-marker felt pen and paint the ‘grit number’ for easy retrieving. Either a “4” or “I I I I”.

 My most favourite setting tools are my two Onglette #1, #2 and lastly the Flat Graver #40. Without them, I couldn't masterfully execute the setting & engraving I succeed in creating. These are also costly in both time, money and maintenance. If I accidentally drop a graver into my metal bench, I will make sure the cutting edge hasn't been damaged or made unusable. I observe if they will be ready for immediate cutting! I will allow the graver-tip to touch my finger-nail, if it grips, then it's ready for use. I've been active in discussing these wonderfull tools all through this ongoing blog!

 The “High Speed Bur” is a misnomer, as it doesn't mean it has to be used at a high speed. It means that the steel is “Case-Hardened” in the production of this particular bur, these are one of the most expensive tools for any setter, but they are so well needed. These are very aggressive in their cutting, but they earn their cost many times. Carbide burs have their teeth quite close together and are very gentle in their cutting. H.S.S. burs teeth are further apart & cut metal quite easily & with little effort.

 The Micro-Motor is the most important machine that any setter has in his inventory of tools. My micro-motor is a desk-top, with a handle that has its own fan & motor. No further need of the pole to suspend any overhead motor, with this, you now have complete flexibility while in use. The result is, no hands being tired from the constant lifting and bending of that semi-movable, flex-shaft!

Poor posture, while sitting for long hours is your enemy, get up and walk around every half-hour. Find a chair that has a lower back "Lumbar" support, this is so very important. You can adjust your sitting height, back-rest even an arm-rest is important. Remember, you are now sitting in a comfortable position.

Lights are the most important feature at your bench, no matter if you are setting or fabricating jewellery, your eyes can get extremely tired. Remember this point, that each Fluorescent bulb pulsates at 16 cycles per second, you can’t see it this occurring, but your eyes can ‘pick up the pulses’. Get a 3-bulb outfit, as one bulb cancels out the two pulsating bulbs. Expensive for now, but so much easier on your delicate eyes in the long term.

"Optical-Visor" how strong should they be? I use only a #5 lens, or if needed, a #7. On a very rare occasion, I could use a #10, but that is too much of a strain for any ones delicate eyes for those long hours! Number #3 lens is not just strong enough for your delicate Diamond Setting.

 “Snap-On”, “Medium grit”, Emery (7/8 inch diameter) wheel/disks. Never leave home without any, far better than using your emery sticks, ouch! You can easily see just where the wheel is actually touching. You can rotate the wheel around for easier applications. When finished; THEN YOU CAN USE YOUR PUMICE WHEEL, afterwards!!

Pumice wheels are really my favourite kinds of cleaning tools. The grits being used are the #180 and the Pink coloured “1,000 grit”. Each comes in a Tapered & Flat-faced shapes, I don’t buy 6 of each, but I prefer to buy 50 of each shape and as well the grit…200 wheels. When they are partially worn down, I can use them to clean the inside of the rings.

 At this point, I hardly throw any of them away! BTW, I have additional wheel-mandrels on hand, then I’ll have new wheels & a few more semi-new!

Oil Stone; there is only one grade to buy and that is the “Fine India, FB6” (light brown colour) stone of 8 inches in length. For the first time in using it, soak this porous stone in oil overnight (in a narrow baking pan) and let it sit until the next day. Thus letting all of the oil seep into all of the pores of this “your new friend”, your new oil-stone.

 Lubricating oil: I use a "3 in 1" oil of light viscosity. I've discussed this topic in my previous essays.

Carbide burs: There are almost as many Carbide burs in existence, than the visible stars at night!

 I prefer to use only the basic selection; Round, Bud, Cup-shaped, 156C-(Undercutting), the letter “C” means Carbide! Jewellers might and will use other styles and shapes, but us, the setters can work with these and get so much accomplished with so few!

My range of Round burs starts with a #005, but usually start with the #006 Round. I have been using a Bud-shaped as a mini-file, just where the Triangular file just can’t reach. I suggest that you to explore just what these little “mini-files” can do while also preparing for the setting of stones. To give more uses of these burs can lead to many more essays.

10x Power Hand Loupes. This topic needs only a few words, show me a setter who hasn’t a few of them on his/her bench. I will use a 15xpower just for the close examination of a diamond, but generally, I prefer a wide lens of a 10x power, nothing else!

Elbow pads: Is this little pile of mini-wash clothes really necessary? Let me ask you one question if you don’t rest your elbow on your bench pan for many hours a day and after 5-8 years what’s going to happen? You ulnar nerve that sits inside your resting elbow will get inflamed. The nerves inside the channel in this area will subsequently get pinched and cause you nerve damage or even worse numbness in your finger-tips. Your decision!

Contact me at "gerrylewy18(at)gmail.com"