Hand-drawn renderings for 'cluster setting' => 6 drawings & photos

THIS IS MY HISTORY LESSON.

  In my earlier days of this blog, I drew diagrams of this 'cluster setting' display; these were (truly) very rudimentary.

 But suffice to say, I've now advanced in my method of explaining setting techniques. Photos are the best teaching methods.

If these basic diagrams are still useful to you, I'm happy.

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 When the stones are sitting in and against the individual claws, a 'wire hook' is needed to tighten the stone. 

 Making these 'hooks' does take some levels of practice and finesse, not to mention a 'steady hand'. An intermediate-level knowledge of stone setting is required.

 When the stones are being prepared for setting, a '156C' 90-degree angle bur must create a seat in EACH CLAW for every stone. 

 Each seat must allow the stone to sit flat & not crooked. Avoid not drilling too deeply into the claws.

 All of the selected stones must be of the same size and colour. 

 This photo displays the finished group of 'cluster set' of stones.

 I had no intention to drill too deeply into each of the claws. If I did, it would weaken the structure and integrity of the claws.

 The only tool that I use in this delicate program, is a Flat graver of #40 width. There are many available shapes and thicknesses of blades, but this #40 tool is the 'best' for this stone setting program.

 

What is a "77B-Cup Bur" used for? =>22 photos

 In my previous essays, I wrote about how and why claws should be made round. This essay seems repetitive, as there are many aspects of this 'series on mini-claw settings' that I didn't want to miss any of them.

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 This "77B" cup-bur is all that you really need to 'round' your claws (of any size). Inside of this bur are teeth just like a file that you use. They won't scrape the metal as it is rotating (but NEVER use it at a high speed).

 In this photo, ALL OF THE CENTER STONE CLAWS WILL NOW BE UNIFORM IN SHAPE.

 At a high speed, the bur teeth slide along and doesn't get a chance to do its 'metal shaping'. At the higher speed, it will just ruin the metal and damage the delicate claws.

Why are the burs finely shaped on the rim, this is so the teeth will get more contact to the 'claw tip'.

 Don't be alarmed that there could be two different sizes of "77B" burs in finishing these tips. The center stone usually has a larger size claw that is solely used for security.

 The cup-bur needs to be held at an angle 'away from the stone'. 

 You just don't want the rotating bur edge to cut into the (soft) faceted stone.

 Here is a great example of the different sizes of claws for this pendant. Always keep a wide supply of 77B burs near you at all times for this finishing process. 

  As many of these cup-burs in this photo have 'smooth & rounded edges', this is not good. These burs which I had in my collection were only acting as a display of what can happen to these smaller sized burs. They are now on their way to be discarded. 

  If some of the claw tips are not well formed, I suggest in filing them to a correct shape, then the 'rounding' action can easily commence.

  Always hold your #77B cup bur at an angle 'away' a vertical position. If you are setting delicate and soft stones, the rotating bur teeth could destroy the stone in seconds.

Always select a larger bur for all of the large claws on the center stone.

  Another idea, or option is to 'pre-cup' your claws. If many of your selected stones are absolutely too soft, such as an Opal, Emerald or even Amethyst. 'Being safe', is better than damaging the stones.

  The angle of the bur is also essential as the rotating bur won't damage the soft and delicate stone. It is advisable to tilt the bur away from a vertical position.

 Uniform sized claw tips are very essential, and this cup-bur will this create a nicer appearance.

 

  This is the method that I use to reshape the 77B bur on an oilstone. The teeth of the bur are now more exposed and closer to the edge of the rotating bur. When you see the teeth being exposed, then you've accomplished your task.

 The cost of these 77B burs is not cheap as they are among the most expensive in any setters' inventory, but what they can do in stone setting is just remarkable. 

KEEP THEM WELL LUBRICATED WHEN IN USE. 

 This is the 'best shaped' bur that will do the rounding of your claws. There is no need to use any sized file. Your claw tips will now remain uniform, as this is very important. 

  If you are setting a large expensive Emerald, I would use my Cup-Bur on the flaw tips FIRST!!!

 

 On this pendant there could be three sizes of burs that will be put to use.

 Here is another view of the Emerald and White stone ring.

Don't place your bur on your bench-peg like this. It needs to be placed solid on your ring clamp.

 Here is a wonderful photo of the 'bur teeth' of the 77B being exposed.

 Some of the packets of 77B burs come in 6 sizes, this will give you greater knowledge to know what burs to use in the future.

Detailed Steps of a Cluster Ring. (FINAL ASSEMBLY) =>19 photos

BEWARE, mistakes might happen. This is why I prefer to make this topic informative and explaining what could happen.

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 Here are the only graver tools that are needed to start and complete this project. I use basically the regular sized graver #40, as it is useful in creating the wire beads in securing a stone.

 I have two Flat gravers that tighten gemstones; they are a #39 (narrow) and a #40 that I use continually.

 In the dark red coloured handle is the pointed tool that I use to widen the claw opening.

 With a soft brush, I'll make sure that all pieces of metal dust have been removed from the claw settings.

 Here I am using my 'bent nosed' plier jaws to tighten the gemstones. I will insert one jaw into an empty space and lever the other jaw against one claw. 

This technique will prevent any need to start 'pushing fragile claws'.

  Here is a close-up on how this technique works. It works great!

Is there enough space in between these claws to set a stone?

  I'm going to use my 156C bur and prepare a seat for a few of the stones. (Not all, but only a few) I want to make sure the stones will be sitting at the correct depth and not crooked.

 When that stone is sitting correctly use your Flat graver and skim the surface of the claw.

 Your Flat blade will now create a 'wire bead' will hold & tighten the stone.

 You can now see how that wire bead is holding the stone tightly.

  At this opportunity, check all of the other stones for security and not being crooked. Then carry on further around the cluster.

 Here is a close-up of this ultra-delicate technique. There are no second chances!!!

 If you find that your Flat graver is not digging in to the metal, go to your oilstone and sharpen the front of the blade. Then polish the underneath of the Flat graver and re-polish the graver again.

 DO NOT and NEVER 'HAND-PUSH' THE OUTSIDE CLAWS OF THE CLUSTER.

 This will cause much distortion of the claws in general. We don't want any claws to get ruined at this stage of delicate setting.

 Please tighten one 'outside claw' at a time. Don't rush yourself; you want this ring to last for years. What is the point of a few minutes more being spent on setting this ring?

 Another thing is that I use my pliers and hit the clamp (not the ring) to see if any stones start to move. I did this even during this setting process. (I found that one stone was slightly loose)

 When the setting was completed, it was time to 'start the finishing'.

 You should NOT USE A MINI-FILE ON THE CLAWS. Why not?   The file might easily loosen some of the tightened claws. I suggest using your 'Snap-On' Emery wheel of a "MEDIUM GRIT" as shown here.

 To 'round' all of the claw tops, I'd use a "77B", Cup Bur that will make every claw top looking like a little ball.

 Always have an ample supply of burs on hand to assist in the finishing process. I erred in this, and I didn't get the exact finish as I wanted; neither should you!

 These 77B burs were too large, but I managed to round the claws as best as I could.

 

DETAILED STEPS in the "Cluster Ring Project". Number #1, of 2 essays. => 12 photos

  I was taking photos of setting stones in a cluster ring, and I ended up with 35 photos. There are 10 photos in the previous essay on "BASIC STEPS IN SETTING A CLUSTER RING".

 As there are just too many photos & text to view. I thought that it would be prudent to split this important topic into two essays.

Who else would spend so much time and effort in explaining this (almost) simple project?

 The very important step is to secure the ring in your ring clamp. 

 With your pointed steel tool, open the claws wider than the stones. This will provide you with greater access for your burs.

 Please be careful not to break any of the claws; this might happen.

 When you undercut the centre claws, spread the claws further apart. Always allow for the bur to make contact with the metal.

With these curved plier jaws, start to tighten the stone. GENTLY!

I like these particular jaws as they give better handling instead of continually lifting your hand.

 Use the 'metal rod' again to widen the middle row of claws.

 It is advisable to use a large BUD bur to excavate the metal to allow the Pavilion of the stone to rest securely against the hole.

Use this same BUD bur to open the upper level of claws wider.

 Ensure that all of the holes have been cleaned & drilled. (This is very important!)

 When you place the stone in the setting, now comes the delicate part of setting & tightening the stone.

                   (Observe this technique in the lower photos.)

With your FLAT graver, dig into the wire claw and twist the blade, as this will create metal that slides over the side of the stone.

  In using your "156C, Under-Cutting" bur, gently allow for this bur to drill into each claw JUST WHERE THE STONE WILL TOUCH THE CLAW.

 If you wish to cut into the other claws, prepare for the same size of the stones in this cluster.

  We still have much work on the 'FINAL & FINISHING' essay.