Why MUST you rub a "soft pencil" into your Polishing Papers? => 10 photos

 This is a very unusual question, but it has much merit to it. Let's now explore the answer in great detail.

 The results of polishing your tools on these modified papers are unbelievable! I'm first applying a 'soft core' drafting pencil to my #240 rough textured paper. It's so rough that it can't be named 'Polishing Paper' at this stage.

 You can easily see the remnants of the pencil are still visible. In all actuality, the soft pencil transforms this paper to #400 grit.

 You can see the pencil with its 'softness' being displayed.

 Instead of buying new sheets of paper, all you need to do is rub the drafting pencil against the paper. This will quickly transform the paper to a #400 grit.

  Before you select a section of paper for modification, please use a 'clean section'.

 As I keep mentioning, that to buy extra paper is a total waste of your money. The #600 grit 'rough textured paper' shown here is now turned into #800 softer grit. Interesting process?

  You can see where the 'pencil rubbing' has started. This is exactly where you can modify your gravers....WOW, eh?

 You should apply your 'pencil rubbing' to a longer area on your paper. Why? Your graver modification will get a much finer polishing on the longer contact. Agree?

 What are we doing to this paper? We, in essence, are pushing the softer pencil lead deep into the pores of the paper, nothing else!

 The result of this 'pushing' the pencil granules and (again) transforming the paper into a much softer paper.

This paper was originally #1,000 grit, but now it's equivalent to #1,600 grit. Your engraving tool (blade) will shine so much nicer without any extra money spent.

 From an original #1,200 grit, this polishing paper has exceeded your wildest expectations. This polishing paper is now equivalent to #1,800 grit. The cost to you is $0.00.

  This tutorial essay was written just on the process of enhancing the engraving blade for "Pave' & Bright Cutting". If you continued to buy reams of polishing paper, the costs would be astronomical.

What is a 'Pin Vise' => 11 photos

 Of all of the necessary diamond setting tools in your bench, your 'Pin Vise' is the most important tool. Why is this? Please let me explain this fact along with photos.

  Although these tools come in various shapes and sizes, they all serve one purpose: to hold jewellery.

 The pin-vise is great, but the handle is too thin for the fingers and the palm to wrap around. I'll show you what I did! 

 I went to a hardware store and purchased a wider wooden handle. This gave me a more suitable gripping action for a long duration of stone setting.

  I can now screw the vise into the NEWER and a wider wooden handle. Isn't this a fantastic solution?

  When I received an order for 100 pairs of earring studs, I had to quickly devise a new apparatus and start my immense setting project.

 The 'vise' top can be changed at a moment's notice and modified to hold different pieces of jewellery.

 The 'side screw' can be tightened very securely and the top pins can be adjusted to hold any piece of metal.

  The top pins that are made of brass may be indented with grooves to avoid ruining any effects.

  Here are the brass pins with their cut-out grooves. These are specifically designed for intricate patterns.

  Instead of having the pins on the outside. I created the pins to grab the circular rim on the inside. There was no longer any need for shellac, as it could be difficult to hold and keep clean.

These are Heating WAX PENS & which is best for you. => 7 photos.

 Instead of using a large electric heating pen apparatus, I prefer to hold this lightweight pen, now being shown in this photo. There are, of course, limitations to these mini-wax pens. We will discuss them in this essay.

 For those who wish to have more control over the temperature, this 'heating pen' is the route to take. 

If you are using a wax heating pen for a long period in your busy day. I suggest this apparatus above the 'battery-operated'.

 In using a 'lightweight heating pen', the heating tips have numerous shapes at your disposal. Here are a few of them in this display.

 These 4 wax pens are all battery-operated, but they can't be temperature-controlled by the user. (What you see is what you get.)

The 'on & off' is controlled by a lever located in the handle. The problem is that there are no guides to let you know when the battery is getting low on power.

These are not meant for continuous use; therefore, I heartily suggest the apparatus shown in the above photo.

 With these 'mini' wax pens, there are no 'heat controls', it's either HOT, or HOT.

  In many of my tutorial essays, you've seen my 'wax pen' being used; here they are for you to decide which is best for you.

How to clean your "Hammer Face"? => 18 photos

 We all have hammers in our possession, but how do you clean them? This particular hammer has decades of history and has seen many projects.

This 'family hammer' was used by my father prior to 1968, of 57 years ago. 

 

 Here is the face of this well used steel face. I haven't put it to any use as it weighs in excess of 350 grams including the handle.

 The correct name of this hammer is "Ball Peen", you can figure out where these words come from 😇

 For comparison, here is my hammer that I use for gemstone setting. 

 

 In using different polishing papers, I start with a #600 grit and rub it gently along the wooden board.

 The 'face' of the hammer is kept totally flat at all times. I make sure that the face of the hammer is kept horizontal and not leaning towards the edges. This is so very important in resurfacing the 'Face'.

 The next softer polishing paper is the #800 grit.

 Once these "Medium Grade" of papers have been worked on, the next step in polishing is to use the finer grit, namely #1,000 grit.

 Finely the last polishing paper in my inventory is the #1,200 grit. We won't be metal carving, but when the metal is being hammered that must be no deep indentations remaining on the surface of the bezel.

 My hammer weight is calibrated at 84.7 grams. This hammering tool MUST BE KEPT IN PRISTINE CONDITION at all times. If there is possibility of indentations due to constant hammering, GET RID OF THEM IMMEDIATELY. 

 I used a "Snap-On, Emery Paper" to initiate the metal grinding, but the steel markings were too deep.

 I'm showing just how deep the steel markings are on this steel face. 

 I wanted to use an Emery wheel, but it came with little success, pity! 

  With this Emery wheel, I had to endure sharp pieces of steel hitting my glasses,

 For a comparison photo, half of the steel face was left untouched. I didn't want to use a grinding wheel as this would be a major cleaning process for the very heavy hammer.

 I use a Drafting Pencil to have the Graphite Pores be imbedded into the polishing paper. In essence, the paper of #1,200 grit would be transferred into #1,800 grit without buying extra sheets of paper.

 The steel face MUST BE KEPT (virtually) FLAT at all times on the polishing paper. This will give you the exact finishing that is required.

Do you use (thin) claw settings for a 1 carat diamond? =>14 photos

 Some jewellers will offer their clients a thin 4-claw setting instead of a 6-claw setting for a 1-carat diamond.

 My objective in making a ring is always in 'security'. If claws are gently pushed aside or become loose in a 4-claw setting, thousands of dollars can be quickly LOST!

 The best and most basic style with 'absolute 100% security' in a 4-claw shape is shown here.

 For those clients who wish a 'bit of flair', here is an 8-claw setting with Triangular diamonds.  

 My number one choice is a sturdy 6-claw setting that will easily accommodate a 1/2 carat diamond. 

 This particular ring will accommodate a diamond of 1 carat in size. The 4 claws should always be vertical, but never slanted. The Culet Facet of every gemstone should be in the centre of the head.

 I'm using an "Inside, ring clamp" that will allow me to trim all of the claws without damaging them in the process.

  If you wish to set 3 diamonds (or coloured gemstones) on each side in a Flush stone configuration, you have that extra option.

        THESE PHOTOS SHOW THE VARIETY OF HEADS.

 This STRONG 4-claw head will hold any size of diamond without any 'security' problems. Some of the claw settings that are shown here are stamped, but not cast. 

 (REMEMBER TO POLISH THE CLAW SETTINGS BEFORE ANY GEMSTONE IS TO BE SET.)

 'Double-claws' are one of the best in dealing with security and long-lasting beauty.

 These thick claws literally hold the diamond or expensive gemstone without any adverse problems. I'd use these strong claws with no second thought. 

 This style of claw-setting is named "Tulip" as it appears to look like a flower arrangement. The 'tips of the flower' are actually claws in disguise without the usual 4-claw configuration.

  

 The 'basket' is basically a wonderful-looking design that gives the wearer much pleasure.

 These 4 claws blend with the 'Crown Facets'. Although these claws are wide, but are so very strong. The curved tips are 'rounded' for a purpose, as they seem almost invisible from the top.

  As this is a yellow creation, this 'basket' looks like a flower.

 This final choice of a setting is for a diamond of a 3/4 carat size, but refrain from anything larger. The reason is that the diamond might appear to be 'top-heavy' to the thin-looking shank.

These remarks are mine and not of any jewellery manufacturer.