Creating metal beads using a FLAT graver? 10 photos (first of two instructions)

  This Scale of Difficulty is 'just off the board', why? There is nothing easy about this innovative procedure. There could be errors of every kind before this ring has even been completed.

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 1) The first thing we see is that the Ruby stone must be set lower than normal into the metal.

 2) Placing the flat cutting edge into the metal and then 'pivot' or twist the sharp front face into the metal.  

    

 Supposing that the first step is to place the stone into this hole. From this one simple photo, there are two things WRONG.

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1) The gemstone is not low enough for the setter to create beads,   using a 'FLAT' shaped graver. 

2) The next error is that the gemstone was placed at an angle, aka 'crooked'.

                             DRILLING OF THE HOLES!

 1) I always use a round bur to gently create a little recess into the metal. This little recess will prevent the twist drill from running amok all over the curved surface. This is 'preventive maintenance'.

2) Once the little recess has been created, drill a bit deeper but keeping the bur vertical at all times.

3) Now that the holes are suitably drilled in the metal. Ensure that the overall diameter of the stone matches the hole.

4) Use your 'twist drill' to thoroughly drill the hole all the way into the metal.

5) I'll be using a round bur to clear an opening for the stone.

6) This is the best technique for figuring out the Pavilion for the stone. I'll use a Bud-shaped bur to prepare for the setting of the stone. 

The Bud bur MUST BE THE EXACT SIZE OF THE STONE.

                              QUICK REVIEW.

1) Always be watchful that your burs are held in a vertical position while being drilled.

2) Remove all of the remaining slivers of metal around each of the holes. These little slivers of metal ARE NOT WANTED, get rid of them ... NOW! I'd use a pumice wheel to clean the surface.

Final (3rd) price list of jewellery, circa 1976 & 1996. =>10 photos

 In this final three-essay price list, I've included some prices of jewellery-related tools, bench grinders, and hammers. 

 The name "Eaton" is not a fictitious name, as the name was that of the original owner of "Timothy Eaton". This Canada-wide company closed down only a few years ago.

  Cubic Zirconia gemstones were the 'best deal in jewellery'.

 It's interesting to read the 'promotional advertising' from those earlier days. BTW, as this was a Canadian jewellery company, our spelling is slightly different from that in America.

  Many of those designs are not often seen; there was a heavy emphasis on engraving. For example, in #12 'set of rings'.

  Here are the various shapes of hammers that were used in Canada 30 years ago.

 

 I still have this bench grinder of number #6, being shown. I keep it to 'grind and shape' my gravers.

 

 Here are some 'costume jewellery' pieces that even today can be created in gold.

This engagement ring is named a "Flat Top" setting.

Prices of jewellery circa '1990 & 1975' (ver. #2) 10 photos

 I'm aiming for designs & jewellery patterns from 30 to 50 years ago. To list these designs is no easy task, I shall endeavor to make our blog readers smile.

 In those earlier days, 1975, the price of gold was only a mere pittance of what it is today. Gold was selling (U.S.) at $195.00 an ounce; today, it broke through the $3,800.00 level.

Silver was only $4.45 an ounce; it is now at $49.00 per ounce.

(These metal quotations were viewed on "Google" on September 29th. 2025.)

 I will supply MORE photos and prices in the next essay.

 

RETAIL Catalogues from 1976 => 1996 (Ver. #1) 7 photos

This catalogue (on the right) was the epitome of home shopping, circa 1976; it had 698 pages to saunter through. 

 I'm basically looking for jewellery photos with historical value. Some of those designs are still popular even today.

 The most obvious thing that has changed are the prices.

 Some of these (Canadian) catalogues are between 24 & 49 years old, and many are still in excellent reading condition. 

 In version #2 of this two-part essay, I'll be including jewellery prices of the very popular Cubic Zirconia, as well as Diamonds. Catalogues were very popular decades before the Internet came into existence.

 In my search for these items, if I come across jewellery-related machines, I'll post them as well. (but no promises).

WAX TO METAL (spacing of holes) => 7 photos

 In this essay are the 'rudimentary techniques' in spacing for drilling the holes for setting gemstones. This process is very useful and should be explained; there are no shortcuts in this process.

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     How were these holes drilled with such precision?

 It's easier to 'realign the holes' in wax than in the metal, as there won't be any soldering required if a mistake occurs.

 When the holes are to be drilled in the wax. There shouldn't be any wax residue remaining around or in the holes.

                          SPACING IN A METAL RING 

  There is one serious error. Can you figure out just where it is?

  

  The major error is that the gemstone that is nearest to the centre stone is too close to the claw settings.

 When the hole is fully drilled, the circumference of the stone will be too close to create any Pave' setting.

 The 'inside spacing' seemed good, but the '3 holes' are not acceptable. WHY?

   Together as a unit, I moved the '3 stones' further away from the claw setting. This is before any drilling was to commence.

 I scribed a faint line on the surface of the ring. These lines will be where the Culet of the stones will be situated.

 

 How much space is required? The rule is that 'the minimum distance must be one third of the width of the gemstone'. That distance allows for the raising of the beads in Pave' Setting.

 If there are 2 or 3 sizes of gemstones, the largest stone should be adjacent to the claws. The result is a 'nice tapering effect'. Always measure the stones before any drilling is initiated.

  When drilling individual holes, it is very important to maintain an even space in between all of the stones.

Why use a saw-blade in a 4-claw setting? => 11 photos

 Here are two examples of preparing a seat for a gemstone. This can be for genuine stone or a Diamond, "the following rules for both are still the same". The errors lay in the angles & placement of the bur against the claws.

 What happens when the 'seat' is improperly prepared? The next question is, "How can this error be repaired?"

 The very first thing that is required is to have a saw frame and a saw blade of #4/0 width (number #6/0 is too thin for what we will be doing). Nothing else is needed!

 Here are a variety of useful blades, but only one will be used for this procedure.

Under my digital microscope, you can see the teeth of a saw blade.

 With some of the sample saw blades that I have. I will select only the finest & most useful blade, and that will be used for this delicate procedure. I chose #4/0.

These 'spaces' are not truly accurate for any gemstone setting.

 

 With the #4/0 width blade, I will endeavour to recut the claws above the Girdle and against the Girdle Facets.

 Here is the close-up of where the saw blade will be cutting. This saw blade is repairing the 'seat' of the claw.

 The tip of the claw will be gingerly 'recut' just to reshape the inside of the claw where it touches the stone.

 The whole process is to establish a new contact of metal to the stone. (I learned this technique 66 years ago.) 

 I'm using a different angle to show you where the saw blade will be cutting. This saw blade is similar to using a file, where no file must and cannot touch.

 If the stone angles are not at first configured accurately, there will be errors in the setting of the stone. Knowing the process of how to correct that error is 90% of setting the expensive diamond.

 The angles of the claw MUST ALWAYS MEET THE ANGLES OF THE GEMSTONE.

I always use a pumice wheel #180 grit to smooth the claws.