How is a Marquise stone set in a Full Bezel? => 11 photos

Bezel setting can be a little challenge, at the best of times.

 Here are 4 stones that could be used in this ring, but for this essay, I'll just work with the blue stone.

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 The first thing that a setter must do is to inspect for any defects on the stone for any of the facets, ANYWHERE.

 (If any of the facets have any minor abrasions, you should refuse to set that stone, as the client could say 'that was your fault'.) I can write this from my own experience.

 Any extra metal that is remaining from the metal casting should be removed NOW.

 The next important process is to create a 'seat' for the stone to sit. The point of the stone, as well as the bearing for the girdle, must be at the same depth.

 The next step that must be done is to use a round bur with the same diameter as the thickness of the girdle.

 This bur will drill a recess, where the point of the stone will be resting. I suggest using a "High Speed Steel" bur to carve out where the pavilion of the stone will be lying.

                     Lay the stone inside the bezel setting!

1) Make sure that the stone isn't moving in the bezel frame.

2) Is the stone sitting flush with the bezel frame?

3) Have you noticed that the stone isn't sitting high on any end?

4) Are you totally satisfied with the sitting of the stone?

  If you answered these 4 questions in the 'affirmative', we can then proceed onward.

 You have two choices in tightening the stone. You can use a flat face hammer or a "Reciprocating Hammer"; both techniques will be shown here.

 In using a regular hammer, there is just one problem, which is that the large face of the hammer literally covers the bezel tip. This will render the hammer hitting & viewing almost useless.

 The best hammer to use in bezel setting is the Reciprocating Hammer. Why is this? Any hitting is available to be seen at all times.

 When you are starting to use the hammer, I'd start at the centre of the bezel frame and work towards the ends of the bezel.   Emphasising the 'contact hitting' and NOW GENTLY PROCEED TO THE ENDS OF THE MARQUISE STONE.

 The Reciprocating Hammer anvil is easier to see, and you can direct the anvil to exactly where it should be touching.

 You will notice that the ends of the stone are contoured to be at a lower level than the middle of the stone. THIS IS NOT A DEFECT. This is because of the original faceting processes.

 I would like the Bezel Wall top to be FLAT and not contoured to match the stone.

 I, as a Diamond Setter, always Bright-Cut inside the bezel. This acts like a 'finishing touch' to the stone setting process.

 Instead of using a metal file, you should use a flat-edge Pumice Wheel with a #180 grit. The flat Pumice wheel will match the angle of the Bezel top.

 

  In this photo, you can now easily see the contours of the ends of the stone.

 Any additional 'bezel hammering' should be kept to a minimum. As I mentioned before, the bezel wall tip MUST REMAIN FLAT and not follow the various contours of the stone.

 

When are new beads created & positioned? =>16 photos

This essay is about how the stones are positioned.

 Use your dividers and position the stones on a flat surface. Remembering that all of the stones should be of the same colour (and of course) the same size.

 Keep your tools well organised on your setting bench. If you drop a stone, you can find it in a moment, instead of rummaging through all sorts of tools.

From the measurements taken from the 8 stones, you can transfer that spacing to this ring top.

 Kindly scribe where the beads MIGHT BE CREATED. The two words are 'Might BE'. This all depends upon the sizes of the stones.

  We've just drilled the holes and set the stones where the beads were intended.

The first bead should be located at the corner, as shown here. We have to make this look interesting and not just 'put a bead here and walk away'. We are always thinking of designing.

 The front of EVERY BEAD MUST BE SITUATED HALF-WAY COVERING THE GIRDLE OF THE STONE. That bulge of metal is the true bead. That shiny hole was where the bead-raiser dug into the metal.

   In this photo, I decided to burnish first each new bead, as this alone will give strength to the bead. The four diamonds went in the corners first.

 I tried to decide where each set of Garnets might be placed. This is why there are multiple holes in some spots. Spacing is very critical.

 I found that there was more space in certain areas of this rectangular ring. Therefore, the largest stones went in, as shown.

 In every hole, I counter-sunk as I wanted the Pavilion to be resting against the walls of every hole. 

Each hole used two sizes of burs; the first bur was for the outside diameter, and the second bur was to open the Culet of the hole.

 You can now see that the close proximity of the two Girdles was overlapping. Therefore, I lowered the Garnet deeper into the metal.

 After I successfully completed the drilling process, I completed the bead-burnishing process. By burnishing each new bead, it was made stronger and less prone to damage.

  

 I decided to ignore the inside areas where the 12 stones were sitting. My main concern was the 4 rectangular walls of the ring.

 Upon cutting, I discovered that the width of the four walls needed an additional line. 

 Filing the walls thinner would make the pattern look like poor taste.

 I engraved four lines, using a #1 Onglette graver, and carefully cut around the 4 outside walls.

This blade is shown on the right of the photograph.

 These additional 4 lines are shown in this photo.

                              

 For the inside of the 12 stones, I decorated the remaining metal by just 'touching' the surface using a round bur. 

 

Do you use these 'weird looking' pliers? =>17 photos

 These strange-looking pliers can be bought with this configuration of being 'bent out of shape'. 

 They are great, as you can hold them without bending your fingers or hand out of shape.

  If this were your metal ring, the angle of the pliers would not interfere with the stone setting.

 I cut and shaped the tips of the pliers to a finer point. Many times, the tool supplier might not have the correct shape and configuration of tools on display. Then you can reshape them yourself.

  I always recut the points of the plier jaws to my own needs and exacting specifications.

  These strange-looking jaws were not like when I bought them. They have gone through a very intense transformation.

 When I'm grasping the stone, I don't want any slippage taking place during the 'tightening' process. This is a very delicate tightening process, and no errors must be encountered.

  Every pair of jaws should be created with a serrated edge, thus preventing slipping. I will use a "Separating Disk" to do the jaw cutting.

  I have cut little grooves into each of these "needle-nose" pliers.

 

 In these delicate situations, 'stone & claw' slipping is the enemy and must be totally avoided at all times.

  Now compare these two plier positions being shown here. Which position would you prefer?

 

 I always pick up my pliers at random, and each one has these serrated edges. I don't want to start guessing which pliers to use, as everyone has these indentations cut into them.

 These pliers were cut in double-sides as the jaws were very wide, so I had to explore how to cut them successfully. Here are my results.

 

 There is no need to cut these grooves any further than what you see here.

 These semi-weird jaws were shaped thin and narrow for certain stone-setting needs. 

 Can you imagine that during the 'tightening' process that my fingers would slip? The damage would be awful and irreparable.

 These are my pliers that I've shaped and created for every eventuality during stone setting.

 

What is a "BENT BUR" good for? => 6 photos

 Don't throw away your bent burs. Why not? They now have another remarkable purpose in their short lives. They plug up little holes in your jewellery.

 Instead of melting solder and finding that the solder is not the same colour as the surrounding metal, here is a quick solution.

 Find a well-worn bur in your bench and heat the top 1/3rd to RED HOT. This will subsequently soften the steel tip on your bur to start your 'bending process' at a 90-degree angle using a pair of pliers.

Softened steel bends very easily; please be careful in the bending.

 Exactly where the steel tip is to make contact with your item is what you are searching for.

 

  Locate that 'soft steel spot' and use any emery tool to make a flat surface. This is exactly your spot that will make a 'hitting' where the hole is.

 This flattened steel flange is where the hitting will literally 'move' the metal over the hole. 

 This flange must be contoured carefully with an emery disk and followed by soft finishing paper. 

 You can now see where the flange is appearing. FOREWARNED, this smooth flange must be made to gently move metal across the hole.

 

 When the bent bur is rotating, it is not pounding the metal flat. On the contrary, it is moving metal towards and over the hole(s).

 How can you reheat the 'bent steel bur'? All that is needed is to reheat (harden) the complete steel bur using a torch flame. 

 I suggest that after a quick drop of the reheated bur into cold water, the steel will become 100% hard again.

 It might be a good idea to 'smooth' the flange again. 

  NOW YOU HAVE A NEW TOOL FOR REPAIRING HOLES IN YOUR JEWELLERY. There is no need to solder any of these holes.

  Another point is to 'experiment' before you need to attempt the real 'repairing'. If the mini-holes are too deep, you might have to solder those holes. This procedure is meant only for a shallow hole.