Detailed Steps of a Cluster Ring. (FINAL ASSEMBLY) =>19 photos

BEWARE, mistakes might happen. This is why I prefer to make this topic informative and explaining what could happen.

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 Here are the only graver tools that are needed to start and complete this project. I use basically the regular sized graver #40, as it is useful in creating the wire beads in securing a stone.

 I have two Flat gravers that tighten gemstones; they are a #39 (narrow) and a #40 that I use continually.

 In the dark red coloured handle is the pointed tool that I use to widen the claw opening.

 With a soft brush, I'll make sure that all pieces of metal dust have been removed from the claw settings.

 Here I am using my 'bent nosed' plier jaws to tighten the gemstones. I will insert one jaw into an empty space and lever the other jaw against one claw. 

This technique will prevent any need to start 'pushing fragile claws'.

  Here is a close-up on how this technique works. It works great!

Is there enough space in between these claws to set a stone?

  I'm going to use my 156C bur and prepare a seat for a few of the stones. (Not all, but only a few) I want to make sure the stones will be sitting at the correct depth and not crooked.

 When that stone is sitting correctly use your Flat graver and skim the surface of the claw.

 Your Flat blade will now create a 'wire bead' will hold & tighten the stone.

 You can now see how that wire bead is holding the stone tightly.

  At this opportunity, check all of the other stones for security and not being crooked. Then carry on further around the cluster.

 Here is a close-up of this ultra-delicate technique. There are no second chances!!!

 If you find that your Flat graver is not digging in to the metal, go to your oilstone and sharpen the front of the blade. Then polish the underneath of the Flat graver and re-polish the graver again.

 DO NOT and NEVER 'HAND-PUSH' THE OUTSIDE CLAWS OF THE CLUSTER.

 This will cause much distortion of the claws in general. We don't want any claws to get ruined at this stage of delicate setting.

 Please tighten one 'outside claw' at a time. Don't rush yourself; you want this ring to last for years. What is the point of a few minutes more being spent on setting this ring?

 Another thing is that I use my pliers and hit the clamp (not the ring) to see if any stones start to move. I did this even during this setting process. (I found that one stone was slightly loose)

 When the setting was completed, it was time to 'start the finishing'.

 You should NOT USE A MINI-FILE ON THE CLAWS. Why not?   The file might easily loosen some of the tightened claws. I suggest using your 'Snap-On' Emery wheel of a "MEDIUM GRIT" as shown here.

 To 'round' all of the claw tops, I'd use a "77B", Cup Bur that will make every claw top looking like a little ball.

 Always have an ample supply of burs on hand to assist in the finishing process. I erred in this, and I didn't get the exact finish as I wanted; neither should you!

 These 77B burs were too large, but I managed to round the claws as best as I could.

 

DETAILED STEPS in the "Cluster Ring Project". Number #1, of 2 essays. => 12 photos

  I was taking photos of setting stones in a cluster ring, and I ended up with 35 photos. There are 10 photos in the previous essay on "BASIC STEPS IN SETTING A CLUSTER RING".

 As there are just too many photos & text to view. I thought that it would be prudent to split this important topic into two essays.

Who else would spend so much time and effort in explaining this (almost) simple project?

 The very important step is to secure the ring in your ring clamp. 

 With your pointed steel tool, open the claws wider than the stones. This will provide you with greater access for your burs.

 Please be careful not to break any of the claws; this might happen.

 When you undercut the centre claws, spread the claws further apart. Always allow for the bur to make contact with the metal.

With these curved plier jaws, start to tighten the stone. GENTLY!

I like these particular jaws as they give better handling instead of continually lifting your hand.

 Use the 'metal rod' again to widen the middle row of claws.

 It is advisable to use a large BUD bur to excavate the metal to allow the Pavilion of the stone to rest securely against the hole.

Use this same BUD bur to open the upper level of claws wider.

 Ensure that all of the holes have been cleaned & drilled. (This is very important!)

 When you place the stone in the setting, now comes the delicate part of setting & tightening the stone.

                   (Observe this technique in the lower photos.)

With your FLAT graver, dig into the wire claw and twist the blade, as this will create metal that slides over the side of the stone.

  In using your "156C, Under-Cutting" bur, gently allow for this bur to drill into each claw JUST WHERE THE STONE WILL TOUCH THE CLAW.

 If you wish to cut into the other claws, prepare for the same size of the stones in this cluster.

  We still have much work on the 'FINAL & FINISHING' essay. 

Introduction to a MAJOR Cluster-Ring project => 18 (photos & diagrams)

 When I was travelling, many of my students were asking me questions about Cluster-Ring settings.

 In this tutorial essay, I will delve into this topic and display the setting tools & burs to use.

THIS SINGULAR PROJECT IS NOT EASY! There will be many essays on this topic for you. There could be many errors. Be careful.

 This essay will be on how to 'set and secure' the stones.

 When you are using gemstones of the same size, the most important aspect of this is to have them all of the same colour.

 The most important tool in securing the stones is to use a FLAT Graver. I personally use a #40 (wide) blade.

 The first thing I will do is to use a tapered awl (red handle) and open the claws further apart. This will allow me to increase the space for the bur to do the metal cutting.

 In this setting project, it is incumbent upon me to keep the blade thin. The reason is to get the flat graver into very delicate areas.

Here are some important measurements for your records.

The "156C" (Under-Cutting) bur should cut seats for the stone at a 90-degree angle. 

 If I used a 70-degree bur, it would not give me the same shape as the stone. All gemstones are shaped at a 90-degree angle, either genuine or simulated. So why use them?

 It is not necessary to trim the claws with any file; the best option is to use a "77B" Cup Bur.

Here is an assortment of various 'Cup Burs' that I use constantly.

 The 'centre stone claws' are the first to be set for this pendant. The 'middle row' is joined to the large centre stone claws. Then the 'outside claws' are equally joined to the 'middle row'. DON'T AVOID THIS SEQUENCE, EVER.

 Never think of filing these small claws. The best option is to use the #77B - Cup Bur, but hold it on a slight angle as the steel bur won't damage the delicate facets.

 The most important thing to do FIRST is to use a round bur to clean each of the setting holes.

 After your metal casting, there could be little pieces of metal remaining in the holes. GET RID OF THEM, NOW!

This is your finished cluster setting, NICE? You will notice that the claws are 'well-rounded' before the delicate gemstones were set.

  Here are the centre claws after the '156C' bur was used to prepare the seats. You will also notice that the Pavilion Facets of the stone will rest against the claw.

  You can select larger stones for the middle row, if you need to. Then, for the bottom (outside row), the smallest stones can be used. For this, you will have an overall tapering effect.

                      Drawings to guide you further...(I hope!)