Initially, this was a simple hollow wax core. After delicate carvings with exacting stone measurements, the end result will be a wax channel ring made for a round stone setting.
(As these photos of a wax channel are very new, please understand that I want to be careful in my tutorial teachings. I don't want to make ANY MISTAKES.)
The completed tube will be (hopefully) included in "Version #2" of this series. There are many more photos to be shown.
THIS IS A REPEATED ESSAY FROM MARCH 17. 2025, but now with additional notes and photographs for your records.
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This formula explains which kind of wax is 'best' for our pattern.
I prefer to scribe a faint line rather than to guess where the saw blade should cut.
I'm carving a series of cuts in sections all around the thick wax tube. I'm using a saw blade of #2/0 thickness. I didn't want to keep exchanging the saw blade if it breaks, so I used a thinner blade.
I keep my metal pan on my bench, as the wax shavings might mix in with my precious metal fillings.
I found these 3 large files in my local hardware store, and I've used them basically for wax carving. You can see the different textures
From the rough texture of the wax separation, I started to smooth out the saw blade cuttings. I'll start with the rough file texture first.
I need to remove the saw blade cuts, as seen in this photo. The wax looks very uneven, but this will quickly change.
l'll insert my finger into the wax hole and carefully rotate this wax tube with the thumb and middle finger. I need an even surface.
Next, I'll go to the 'medium texture' file, as I need to get a slightly smoother surface.
The 'saw blade cuttings' have been nicely removed, but we're still not finished yet!
This '3-finger rotating exercise' on both sides will now prepare for the finishing process.
Very gently examine both sides for any errors on the surface.
Here you can see the collection of wax that collects and mustn't get mixed with your precious metal filings.