ONLY=> Tube Settings => 15 photos

 The Tube Setting is similar to the Flush stone setting. I am using a modified round bur that will make a seat for the stone to sit.

  In this photo, I will decide where the bearing will be cut.

 The stone is now starting to be held at the correct location in the Tube.

 

  You can see where the groove for the stone is being cut.

 This "Half-Round" is what I created many decades ago and it works so very well.

 With the Reciprocating Hammer I 'moved' the metal down on the edge of the Girdle of the stone. I never hit the metal hard.

The tip of the Hammer Anvil is held at a 45degree angle.

There appears that the rim of the metal has now a flange beyond the rim. This has to be removed as soon as possible!!

 You'll notice that the hammer anvil has not touched the stone. This what I expected, I can even set Genuine Emeralds in this Tube technique.

A gentle filing has removed that 'flange' around the rim. NICE?

 I placed the Tube securely on my shellac stick, as I didn't want any movement while Bright-Cutting the Bezel rim.

 This Bright-Cutting is an exercise in keeping the graver & Tube secure in this delicate time.

 If I used my ring clamp, the Tube might have moved and come loose.

Having the Tube melted into the shellac was a wise decision, as I wanted the Tube Setting to be set without any problems.

 I didn't break off the Tube from the shellac stick. I just heated the surrounded surface and it came off without any effort.

 

Gypsy Setting => 20 photos

  "Gypsy", or as it's commonly known as "FLUSH SETTING" is a smooth way to set gemstones in metal.

I'll be using only a "156C, Undercutting bur" to cut a seat for the intended stone.

 How deep should the stone be? Good question, look bellow.

 Where teeth of the 156C bur are sitting is EXACTLY at the top edge of the metal IS EXACTLY WHERE THE STONE MUST SIT.

  There must be a cutting seat all the way around the hole.

 This is exactly where the Girdle of the stone should be seating. Then the Table of the stone will just never protrude above the surface of the ring.

I finally use a #1,000 grit Pumice wheel to smooth the metal after all of hammering has been completed.

With this ultra-smooth surface, I can now easily hammer the surface leaving no indentations anywhere on the ring.

 

When the gemstone is inserted, I will gladly Bright-Cut the inside of the bezel.

  This photo displays how the inside frame is being cut.

 

The Riveting Hammer must have a very smooth surface with NO SURFACE INDENTATIONS IN IT.
I would use a #400 Emery paper to clean the surface.

Here is a great 600x power magnification after the hammering has taken place.

Even after a few taps with the hammer some marks might appear. Just redo the cleaning again.

This is the resurfaced hammer head again.

If there are defects at the hammer head, then these marks will appear in the ring.

 Just before the hammering starts, the stone must be level and not crooked.

 This is my best photo showing the stone after it has been set. 

 Just a footnote: Please use a #800 grit polishing paper to keep the hammer face SMOOTH.

 Make sure that all of your gravers are well maintained.

 To maintain a smooth paper surface, I apply a soft-pencil to increase the grit from #800 up to an estimated #1,200+ grit.

3-BEZEL RING => 26 photos

 This essay is built upon 3-stones being set into one ring. The rate of difficutly is 9 out of 10.

=>NONE OF THE 3 STONES MUST BE TOUCHING EACH OTHER.

 I would use a "HSS Undercutting Bur" to create seats for the stones.

 

 Where the seats are made I would use a round bur where the Girdle of the stone will be located.

 I selected a round bur for each of the 3 stones. I might assume that some of these stones are different in size.

I would use a round bur slightly larger than the girdle, but not the same size. There is always a difference in sizes when being bought.

 I prefer to use an AWL to open up the bezels, as I need to get each stone into the new bezel.

 Opening up the bezel hole, allows the 3 stones to be sitting without touching each other.

 I prefer to use my "Reciprocating Hammer" to gently hammer the metal against the stone,

 I've finished the GENTLE hammering against the facets...THE HAMMERING MUST NOT BE FLAT!

The metal must be on an angle to the stone!!!

 The bezel metal should should lay against the 'inside metal'.

 NO TWO STONES MUST TOUCH EACH OTHER!!!

The stones were made by "SWAROVSKI"

 Around each of the bezels eachof them MUST BE BRIGHT-CUT... as shown here!

 There should be a faint separation of the three bezels, they must not look joined.

  I'm using two files #2 cut, marked as II and a smoother file #4 marked IIII.

 I clean the surface of my graver with my #400 Emery Paper.

 My polishing of my graver is with a #800 grit or #1,000 grit. This is only for the Bright-Cuting.

 I'm Bright-Cutting the inside bezels with my Onglette graver #2.

  THIS 3-STONE RING IS NOW COMPLETED!!!