What jewellery designs were your creating in MAY, 1976? => 22 photos

 This afternoon, I found a 50 year old Canadian jewellery magazine dated May, 1976. I thought that these designs would bring back some fond memories for you.

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I spent 14 years with this company learning the basics of diamond setting, here in Toronto, Canada.

I started with them 1960 until 1974.

This was an innovative and 'modern' style rolling mill. (50 years ago)

These two rings were a men's and ladies ring set.

                       

 

Showing a completed "Full-Bezel Setting" => Review => 22 photos

  In this interesting tutorial essay, I'll be using only these basic hammers and files. 

This essay will only discuss 'AFTER' the stone has been placed into the round Tube Setting.

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 The smooth mirror-like image shows the hitting surface of this hammer as it is being reflected. There are no defects on the surface of the steel.

 If there were any defects on the hammer face, then those defects would be quickly transferred to the flat surfaces of the bezel.

               

In this photo, I'm guaging at what angle my hammer should be held at. You can easily see just where the 'contact' spot is.

 All of the hammering MUST BE ON A STEEL MANDREL. If it placed in a ring clamp, then the ring might just collapse under the hitting.

OPTIONS:

1) NEVER HIT THE BEZEL RIM ON THE TOP. 

2) Always have the hammer held at a 45 DEGREE ANGLE.

If you prefer a "hand-held" contact; DO NOT LET THE ANVIL TOUCH THE STONE.

When you are hammering the bezel FLAT, attempt to move the anvil TOWARDS the stone. BUT NEVER => NEVER let the Anvil touch the stone.

  This is the photo of the bezel after being flattened from the hitting.

This is just how the flatteded bezel looks after being moved over the stone.

This diagram explains in detail what is now being done.

 WHAT HAS TO BE DONE NOW?

These are the essential tools, for cleaning the Bezel.

               

 With using a FLAT #40 wide graver, it is advisable to cut around the inside of the bezel. 

This process is aptly named "Bright-Cutting".

Always keep the bezel width uniform. 

 These are the metal shavings that once were actually a part of the inside of the bezel.

I'm using a soft #4 cut Triangular file to clean the Bezel Rim.

 Here I'm finishing the cleaning with a Pumice Wheel of #1,000 grit. There is no 100% need to use any cloth wheel to polish the bezel rim. The cloth wheel will ruin the sharp edges of the new Bezel.

This "Snap On" "EMERY" Emery wheel will sufficiently clean any defects on the outside of the Bezel Wall.

 IT'S NOW READY TO BE THOROUGHLY CLEANED & POLISHED.

 

Marquise Ruby Stone Setting! => 14 photos

 Marquise shaped Rubies need to be carefully placed into a wedding band. You have two claws with two curved basket-settings to work on.

 To start the setting process, we need a ROUND bur that is the same size of the point of the Girdle of the stone.

  You need a BUD bur that will enlarge the pavilion shape of the bezel-setting. Carve around the deepest area of the stone.

 There must be another larger BUD bur that will curve the setting evenly from one claw post to the other.

 

 GENTLY carve the bezel setting as the shape of the stone must coincide with the metal frame.

 Place the Ruby into this setting and make sure that stone isn't moving around in the bezel.

 NOW, we can GENTLY press over the two claws, one at a time. Understand that these two claws will forever hold the stone in place.

 If the Rubies are of different sizes, then select the largest stones for the middle of the setting.

 Please makr sure that the stones are level and laying flat.

These end-claw-settings is where the smallest stones will be placed.

 

 Just make sure that ALL OF THE STONES ARE SECURE IN THE RING.

Please be sure that the claws are resting against & over the Ruby.

 Use your bud bur to clear away any unwanted metal at the post areas.

 Are all of the areas of the pavilian of equal angles to the stonw.