Although this is a (repeated) tutorial essay, it bears repeating as this is so very crucial in our jewellery profession.
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The ring that I'm displaying for this tutorial essay seems rather basic with a Rate of Difficulty of 7, out of 10.
There are many unfinished features on these rings. These rings were not intended to be used for any sales, as I'm only dealing with the 'stone mounting' techniques.
There are three stone sizes for this ring, your decision is to decide which size of stone works 'best' for you!
With this photo, the correct size of the round bur will be easily determined by the size of the Girdle.
I could use a "HSS, 45-degree" Under-Cutting bur. With these thin claws, I decided that this aggressive bur could very well destroy some of the claws in the process.
With this preparation process, I MUST USE TWO ROUND BURS, NOT JUST ONE. One bur for the corner facet and the smaller bur for the placement of the Pavilion facets.
Now is the time to 'spread out' the 4 claws, this is easier when the handpiece & bur won't prevent any collision with them.
The first claw drilling MUST not be any higher than 25% from the tip of the claw. If you are not sure of the correct & equal depth, I would ask you to use a pair of dividers to make the initial drilling equal on all of the claws.
It is best that you keep the selection of burs in your bench to an absolute minimum.
This is because you should avoid any unnecessary 'visual distraction' when concentrating on your claw drilling.
The first claw drilling MUST not be any higher than 25% from the tip of the claw. If you are not sure of the correct & equal depth, I would ask you to use a pair of dividers to make the initial drilling equal on all of the claws.
These mini-claws can get very 'difficult on the eyes' to keep judging where to drill each claw.
When working with your bur, it must drill into the claw horizontally and not at an angle.
This is the time to use a bur that will measure the same size as the Girdle Facet.
This is the time to use a bur that will measure the same size as the Girdle Facet.
Again, switch your bur that will create a seat for the four "Pavilion Corners".
The length of these corner cuts does not need to be the full length of the claw. The 'stone corners' don't need to extend that far down the claw in all actuality.
THE STONE AT REST!
1) When viewing 'the placing of the stone', are you satisfied with the depth of the stone?2) Are all of the 4 claws equally spaced?
3) Are the four corners of the stone equally aligned with the bearings?
GENTLY, (and I'll repeat )GENTLY BRING TOGETHER 2 CLAWS AT A TIME.
Don't squeeze them together, but monitor that one claw ONLY is moving at a time. As one is being forward, the opposing claw is not allowing the stone to move. This is quite a delicate process.
If too much pressure is put on one claw, then that claw might get bent out of alignment. All of the claws MUST BE VERTICAL and not appear curved, as seen in this photo.
To reduce the height of the claw before 'filing and trimming', it is best to use your rotating "MEDIUM" grit, EMERY WHEEL.