How to 'prepare' to set a ROUND stone in a FLUSH-GYPSY setting? => 18 PHOTOS

 First of all so many thanks "Christine from NYC, USA". Your question made me think about these 2 simple questions. Here are my '18 photo' answers. 

The Level of Difficulty is approximately 6-7, out of 10.

 She wrote in the "comments" section of OUR blog. "Why would I cut a seat 3-4 times around the hole in preparing to set a Flush-Gypsy stone setting?"

1) The answer is that if I hadn't, then the results could have been catastrophic if the bur was being held on an angle. The result would have the stone sitting at an angle. 

 Where the beginning of the 3-4 bur cutting 'started' would be the 'finish' will give me a good chance of having a stone that won't be crooked!!!

2) She also asked why do I use a "156C" 'under-cutting bur' instead of a (straight-sided) setting Bur? My answer is quite simple; (I'm not a fan of those "straight-sided" Setting burs.) My intention is to cut a seat with the same 'angles & proportions' as of a Diamond. 

 I see no possibility of finding the proportions of a faceted stone by using a 'straight-sided' cutting bur. => Please see below for my many reasons.

In this first photo I'm using a HSS bur that has the very same angles that of a 'faceted stone'. I rotate this bur 3-4 times around the setting, why as I want to have a perfectly level stone to sit in the hole. 

 If this bearing is not well drilled, the stone will be crooked. THIS MIGHT HAPPEN.

 I have many options for my drilling of a 'seat' in the FLUSH setting hole or Tube. My selection could be a "High Speed Steel" bur, or just a "156C" bur as shown on the left.

  These specific burs can be bought at any tool supplier of your choice. 

  These "156C" burs are made of a softer metal, hence the name "Carbide".

  Lets suppose that the 'circular seat' is the same as in the Flush setting. The chances of having an irregular shaped groove can be detrimental to you as a jeweller. 

 We deal in accuracy at 100% at all times, mistakes can easily happen.

  On many occasions I use both the bur, or just a small round bur. The size of the round bur must be wider than the Girdle of the stone, nothing less!

 

   THESE BURS ARE NOT TO BE USED IN "GYPSY-FLUSH" STYLE OF STONE-SETTING!!

 This design of bur has no possibility of having any 'stone bearing' that is needed to set any 'faceted' stone.

 These are are the 'trade numbering system' for the "156C"- 'bearing cutters'.

 Here are two possible types of stone settings. Either the stone can be set in wax or in a metal Tube.

 Here is the familiar photo of a "Flush-Gypsy" setting just before the stone is inserted.

Here is the photo of the 'bearing' being made just prior to setting of a stone. You can observe the 'circular seat' for the stone.

  This stone is now ready for the hammering to be started.

   I'm showing the 156C bur preparing the seat around the hole for stone setting.

 The desired depth for any stone is quite easy to solve. 

Where the teeth of the bur extends is the required depth of the stone. How easy is this method?

 Why do I navigate the 3-4 circular cutting around the hole? I WANT THE BEARINGS TO BE AT THE SAME DEPTH ALL AROUND THE HOLE.

 If the cutting hasn't been made uniform, there won't be a level stone being set. PERIOD!

How to maintain the graver with an Oil Stone? => 15 photos.

 This little task seems easy, with many techniques involved, this can be mind-boggling.

 First of all, hold your graver approximately at a 45-degree angle. This will be the same angle being put on all of the 'faces' on all of the gravers.

 I never assume that I have the correct angle, I always put the tip of the graver on the oil stone and lean it to the desired angle.

  

 The 45 degree angle is for ANY GRAVER that I've been using for many weeks and NEVER DEVIATED FROM IT.

 If I must create a "Right-Sided, Onglette graver" then, and only then, will I make the angle at 30 degrees.

 

 

 My FLAT graver has to have the same angles and this can be created on the oil stone.

 To acquire the correct cutting angle, these cannot be found when the graver is first purchased from your tool supplier. YOU HAVE TO SHAPE IT ON YOUR OIL STONE.

 Don't expect that all graver angles come that way, the shaping for metal cutting is a skill to be learned.  But for now, lets just say that you have learned this technique, lets now continue further in this essay.

 If your "Bright-Cutting" blade is needing to be resharpened. Always keep your stone well lubricated with a fine layer of oil, of a "Medium" viscosity.

 You can see just how thin the 'face' of the FLAT graver has been honed, or shaped. The oil-stone is used for sharpening blades prior to Bright-Cutting.

 

 There is a fine layer of oil ALWAYS only the surface of the oil-stone. This oil keeps the blade cool as its being sharpened, heat is an enemy of gravers. 

   
  As an example, all of the assortment of gravers have the very same cutting angle. The oil-stone has just one purpose and that is to contour the cutting face of the blade.

 
 Even for this moderately thick FLAT graver face is still at 45-degree angle. For this blade I kept it thick for a previous diamond setting procedure that I had.

  No matter the purpose, all of the gravers have the same angle created from the oil-stone.

 Some of these engraving blades are very old, but still 'in their prime' in doing metal carving. The 'well cared for' blade is a testament to the owner and setter.

 All of my handles are named "Adjustable, graver handle" as I can use a long or short blade and still do my setting.

 From repeated graver shaping, a fine layer of steel is being built up, how can it be removed? Just use a strong magnet and in seconds the steel shavings is easily removed.

 I had to do some metal cutting and automatically I put some a few drops of oil on the stone. I NEVER SHARPEN ANY BLADE WITHOUT THIS FINE LAYER OF OIL.

Would you use a "HSS", or a "156C" bur? When & where will these burs be used? => 24 photos

  For every bur there is a reason, in this essay, I'll be explaining the best qualities of each.  My experience indicates which are 'good', or 'best'.

 "156C" the letter "C" is an abbreviation for "Carbide". These burs are softer than the High-Speed Steel bur, both look the same, but are so different in their uses.

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 Let's start with the "156C" (Carbide bur) the difference between the "156C" and the "HSS" bur is what makes them interesting.

(I know that you've seen many of these photos in previous essays, but many of these same burs may have multiple uses.)

 The "156C" bur have their "cutting teeth" created close together. The HSS bur has its teeth created further apart, these burs can even be repaired if the cutting teeth are worn smooth. This 'repairing process' cannot be done to the '156C' bur, if those mini-teeth are worn or damaged they should be just discarded, as I do on many occasions.

  You can see just how close each of the teeth are for easily crafting claws in very small claw settings. These are the best burs in creating seats for 'cluster rings'. My choice of photos being shown further in the essay demonstrates this fact.

 I have ample supply of these 156C burs for any eventuality in case a bur gets worn too fast and is unable to be used again.

 I always keep duplicate or triplicate numbers of the same sizes. I never force the issue in keeping a damaged 156C bur. If it is worn, or damaged...GOOD-BYE!

 I found through my experience that the smaller 156C burs get worn very quickly, pity! Don't attempt to keep it, as a 'damaged bur' is not wanted anymore in doing precision work.

  Here are my (favourite) HSS burs, they have a stronger steel composition not like the softer Carbide steel. Even as the angles are similar to both styles, the difference ends there. The HSS are reliable and can be recut & repaired at the 'setters bench', the Carbide burs cannot be recut as the teeth are too close together.

  Here is a prime example of the 'tooth construction' of the 156C and the HSS bur. 

 In the process of repairing the worn teeth on the HSS bur, I made a choice to repair each tooth or accept the fact that a damaged bur shouldn't be used again.

 These burs are not cheap, for this option I can make each bur last for many 'repairing'.

 I repair each tooth by using a 'separating disk' to do the individual 'tooth repairing'.

 For the finer demands of gem-setting, I would gently use the 156C in 'Gypsy-Flush setting'.

 This is a 156C bur that 'has seen better days', there are chances that this bur might be good for only a few more claw settings. These 'damaged' teeth are showing signs of irreversible wear.

In preparing a 'cluster-top', only a 156C bur can be used in these delicate situations.

 In using this High Speed Steel bur, I would use this particular bur only in cutting a seat for  the Engagement setting rings. This great photo displays the spacing of the teeth.

 The 156C could be used on 'cluster rings', but not for the Engagement rings. 

 Here is the great example of where the 156C bur should be used at all times. We are dealing with precision metal cutting against the small claws. 

The HSS burs haven't the precise cutting ability, these 'seats' must be drilled in exact dimensions that of the stone. 

 Which bur should be used for the larger diamond? I chose the HSS bur to do the metal-cutting, The HSS bur have the very same shape & proportions as the diamond, I found that the 156C hadn't the overall shape of the large diamond.

 I used many shapes & sizes of burs to set these gemstones. NO SHORTCUTS ARE PERMITTED.

 Remember, that this ring WAS NOT CREATED WITH CAD, 'Computer Aided Designing'. Precise metal cutting was done everywhere using these two styles of burs.

 I elected to create 'seats' inside of the newly created claws by using ONLY the 156C bur. I demanded precise cutting against very (delicate) claw, unfortunately (the fantastic) HSS bur hasn't that option.

 (Prior to any setting of the many stones, I recut the little 'bur contacts' as seen here.)

Here is another example of using the 156C bur instead of the HSS bur. Delicate claw-carving had to done with the greatest of care. 

Two burs of the same size, can still have two different results. 'Experience' is the best teacher.

 Here is a much closer photo of the '156C' bur preparing the many seats for the small diamonds. You can easily see the 'new seat' for the unset gemstone. I'm only 'touching one claw' at a time.

=> The 156C bur only 'touches the metal', but never digging into the claw. <=

 This is the style of HSS bur I will use in preparing the claw setting for this stone. (But of course much smaller bur will be used.) 

 I used this large bur only as a display, as a smaller bur wouldn't be easy for a picture.

 Can you imagine if I chose an aggressive cutting HSS bur? The damage that would occur would be catastrophic, I preferred to undercut only one claw at a time.