"POLISHING PAPERS" for your gravers => 16 photos

 "Polishing Papers" are the "Creme de la Creme" of your gravers. They are the best kind of process for finishing the process of making a bright finish to any metal cutting blade.

   I keep my polishing papers to a maximum of #1,200 grit. But there is another process where I can double that grit texture without buying any more papers. You can do this yourself.

 As seen in previous tutorial essays, I've explained and shown that by buying a soft-leaded 'Drafting' pencil. I can easily rub the core of the pencil into the pores of the paper.

Here is my actual pencil with the significant writing on the wood.

                                   "PRIMARY #1-309"

 The result is that from a #1200 grit paper, it will become in excess of #1800 grit in just moments. That cost will be just the purchase of your #1200 grit paper. How simple is that?

  With this #1,000 grit/texture paper, I will rub the Onglette blade where the Emery Paper was used. 

 Don't forget that this paper is now equivalent to the #1,500 grit. 

 In polishing the Bead Raiser, I'll again, 'enhance' the texture on both sides of this graver.

  Don't forget to go to your local hardware store and purchase this "Drafting Pencil". It will increase the tactile texture of the metal cutting blade. 

  Keep your "Emery & Polishing Papers" in close proximity to the working area of your bench. They are always needed, no matter what you are doing.

 The 'shiny' area of your paper is where the Pencil Rubbing took place. The soft core of the pencil got embedded into the Polishing Paper.

 I use my 'revised' Onglette #2 to enhance the Bright Cutting to make it shine like a mirror of a telescope.

 All of takes is one polishing paper and a drafting pencil.

 I'm in the process of rubbing the #1,000 grit paper. My graver will rub along the 'embedded' drafting area.

 DON'T TAKE SHORT RUBS. EACH RUBBING SHOULD BE AS LONG AS THE AREA WHERE THE RUBBING TOOK PLACE.

  DON'T HESITATE TO RUB HEAVILY. BE AGGRESSIVE AND HOLD THE PENCIL SECURELY TO THE PAPER.

 Even if your graver is a thin Onglette #1, don't hesitate to resurface the blade.

 Every area of the Onglette blades needs to be highly polished. You are dependent upon the brightness of the new metal cutting.

 If your blade is dull, so will be your metal carving.

 If a section of your polishing paper hasn't been 'touched', don't worry. This way, you will have literally two papers on one.

 

 The polishing paper of even #800 grit could be close to your finer textured papers. Sometimes, a little rough texture on your blade might cause some problems. Get rid of them as soon as possible.

  A polishing paper of #1200 grit or #1800 will give you many days or even weeks of beautiful metal cutting.

                I hope that you learned something new in this essay.

"EMERY PAPERS" for your gravers (must READ & LEARN) => 8 photos

EMERY PAPERS ARE YOUR EXCLUSIVE REPAIRING TOOL.

There is no other tool or method to reclaim the surface of your metal cutting blades.

                             =================================================

 To start the resurfacing process, the first paper will be a 'cleaning' paper. This will remove any deep indentations on the side of the blade.

 This process starts with the basic 'cleaning' paper, which is the #240 grit. This will have a (very rough) coarse texture.

 These numbers being shown here are sequentially smoother as the grit (numbers) get larger. These numbers are the 'beginning and mid-range' of textures.

  No matter the length of the graver, these well-used blades need to be continually repaired. This tutorial essay will be a 'required reading' for you to learn this task.

  I am repairing the RIGHT SIDE of this blade. Please apply AMPLE pressure with the aid of your fingers. The pressure must be administered to the full width of the blade nearest to the working area.

 If the Onglette graver has a pointed area, then the blade must be cleaned directly to that spot.

 For the LEFT SIDE, a similar task of cleaning is required. Don't forget the 'gentle rocking' motion. All areas of the blade should be repaired.

The same technique of cleaning is used now on the #400 grit paper.

 The same technique of  'cleaning' is used on every graver, no matter the shape or length of a blade.

  Here is my inventory of every shape and length of gravers.

 

"Metal Cutting with various blades => 21 photos

 I know that many of these photos have been seen in previous tutorial essays. But there is nothing wrong with repeating a few of them again.

                           ===============================

 Why are there two screws in this one handle? The answer is very simple: if your "locking screws" on the handle get worn from continual tightening, the other "locking screw" will take over in the tightening process.

This is called a "Thumb Guard" because it protects the thumb from being cut by the underside of the graver blade. Trust me, this sharp edge underneath can cause damage to the skin.

 This type of stone setting is aptly named "2-Bead Setting". In this version of gem-setting, this is a delicate process of setting stones. I use two varieties of blades, "Flat" and an "Onglet" shaped blade.

 In this version of Pave Setting, I will specifically use only the Onglet-shaped blade. The reason is that I need to Bright-Cut on curves around the stones. Flat gravers cannot give me the curvature that is needed.

 On this heart-shaped pendant, I will first use a fine-width Onglette blade #1. This blade will create a basic 'rough cut' that will give me the very first line of cutting. 

The LINE OF CUTTING MUST BE EXACTLY AT THE EDGE OF THE 'SETTING HOLE'. 

 The graver must cut into the metal numerous times to have a good preparation for the Bright Cutting.

 Here is another technique, but using "3-Beads" for stone setting. You can see many areas where to use the "Flat" graver.

 This photo shows a "4-Bead" technique, but using both the Onglette and Flat gravers to cut these intricate patterns.

 A highly polished Onglette is the required blade for "Right-Sided" metal cutting. Tool suppliers don't sell them in this high finish; the setter (you) must do the modification.

 In this blog, I will demonstrate how this technique is prepared.

 

 In using a Flat graver, high quality is required in the preparation of the blade. If there is an error in the preparation of the flat graver tip, the end result will be poor in the 'metal cutting department'.

 Only a thin Onglette graver #0, or a graver #1 can get inside close-knit areas. I can now easily cut lines in the metal with little effort.

A Flat graver easily cuts along the surface of the metal. No Onglette graver is able to cut in this fashion.

 No matter how old the graver is, just as long as it fits into your 'adjustable graver handle', it will be good to use.

 As I mentioned, I'm using a Flat graver number #40 and nothing wider.

 On one of my heart-shaped pendants, I thought of setting some very colourful gemstones. This includes extra metal-cutting with my gravers; I've totally enhanced the overall appearance of the pendant. 

 

  This is my chosen Flat graver; the number "N-12" refers to number #40 in our North American series of blades.

 Pendants of this nature are kept on a shellac stick, which makes them easier to hold.

 All of these gravers and their shapes were bought from the tool supplier. The long blade had to be hand-cut and shaped by this author. The small blades are the result of many months of constant use. I use an 'adjustable graver handle' because it allows me to use even the shortest graver.

 This is my inventory of gravers, along with extra blades, if so required.

 Even the shortest graver can still be used for many more months.

 These cuts are the result of a "Flat" graver; you will notice that the cuts are free of any scratches or defects.

 Here is an example of a very bright "Bright Cutting" process. There is a mirror-like reflection done with a Flat Graver with a  #40 width. You could also use an Onglette graver that is highly polished on the right side (if you are right-handed).

  Here is another pendant that is showing only the shiny metal cutting on the inside of the frame.

 Flat gravers are not good on curves, and only an Onglette graver will succeed in working on these patterns.

  ALWAYS EXPERIMENT WITH DIFFERENTLY SHAPED GRAVERS. DON'T LIMIT YOURSELF TO JUST THE BASIC GRAVER SHAPES. 

 Explore other blades with the help of your tool supplier; they are there to help & guide you. I did this when I was learning my profession 65 years ago!

 

Does a hardware store sell jewellery accessories? => 15 photos

  I needed some inexpensive jewellery tools, so I went to my local hardware store on a whim. A surprise awaited me.

 Oh my gosh, all of these 5 brushes for only $5.95. I could use them to keep my bench in the utmost clean condition.

When you are cleaning out your polishing machine, you could wear the glove that came with the 'paint package'.

 In Canada, we use metric units, including the original pricing system. I paid more than $4.99 in a Toronto tool supplier store.

 This is like getting two surprises in one package, wire and wire cutters.

Can you imagine 2 pliers for only $6.99? What a bargain, eh?

 

  These pliers have inside of the jaws that are serrated, that great for grasping items.

In Canada, French is our second national language. In case you need to join multiple parts of a jewellery item, you have wire to assist you. This wire is for no extra charge. WOW, eh!

 Where would you get 6 pieces of precision screws in one package?

    Three wire brushes to clean your files clean of precious metal.

 I think that this 'mini-mirror set' is very useful for finding those items behind your bench, agree?

 I'm so very sure that these heavy hammers will come in handy just once, so is the cost of them worth the purchase?

 These ultra-strong wire brushes are just fantastic for cleaning the teeth of your files.

 These 3 little wire brushes are just what you need in keeping your mini-files clean. Imagine buying one package and getting three for the price of one?

 These hammers are very useful in the workshops of jewellers who need to bend metal.

Always be on the guard for 'alternate' sources of tools. 

Go to your neighbourhood hardware store for additional surprises!