"Added 1/2 Round burs" (ver.#2) => 8 MORE photos

  In this "version #2" on the same topic, I found more photos for the '1/2-round burs'. 

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  These special burs cannot be found ready-made for you in any tool supplier. YOU MUST CREATE THESE YOURSELF, SORRY!

This is a rough hand drawing showing the basic instructions.

 When you are grinding your new bur, keep the bur temperature 'cool to the touch'. Heat is it's enemy!

 This is what the new modified 1/2 bur looks like. The bur size should be the same size as the Cabochon stone that is needed.

  Always keep the edges of the bur sharp, as theses edges will be cutting into the metal of your choice.

  Here is as comparison photo of the 'before and after'. Always keep the bur edges sharp, or the bur won't cut into the metal.

 When you are applying pressure to the bur, keep rotating it at all times. Don't apply pressure continually as the heat will increase thus making the bur to quickly heat up.

 

 While holding the rotating bur in your fingers, if you feel any slightest amount of heat...STOP and drop the hot bur into a beaker of cold water. These are signs that the bur is getting softened and becoming useless.

  In this rough drawing, is what is happening as the final result will be a fantastic Cabochon-shaped cutting bur.

 

What is a "Curved & Joined wires" Engagement ring? => 7 photos

 I don't know if this is the correct name, but I'll use it anyway. The purpose of this ring is to expose as much light as possible.

 Many of the 'wires' in this ring need to be 'prepolished', but not after the gemstones have been completed.

 I suggest using a 'magnetic tumbler' to aid you in this initial process. If you feel that prepolishing will assist you with 'pumice wheel' cleaning, so be it. Just get all of the casting grains removed.

  I prefer to use a gentle pair of plier jaws to grip the claws. DON'T PUSH OR PULL THE CLAWS TOGETHER. We are dealing with delicate stones, and any aggressive movement will damage the stones and ruin the claws.

 Before any stone setting, it is advisable to clean the 'claw basket' where the Pavilion will be resting. There is no possible process in this cleaning of the metal casting when the stones are set.

 When you are selecting your stones to be set. ALWAYS ENSURE THE SIZES AND COLOURS ARE WHAT ARE NEEDED.

 When you get the shoulder stones set, inspect the claws and their layout. In this photo, you can see many errors in the setting. The outside large stone is incorrectly placed and should be beside the centre stone. The claws beside the centre stone are not evenly positioned. This is a major flaw in the delicate stone setting.

   Inspect the centre stone for any flaws or structural defects before the final completion.

 From a simple stone setting experience, we have uncovered many problems. Always be aware of them. Thanks for this reading.

Progress in engraving metal with Onglette & Flat gravers? => 21 photos

 This essay is full of errors & more errors. Errors are what we need instead of just writing "do this and do that". In this one photo, I can see at least 8 problems.

"Onglette & Flat gravers" are our specialised working tools. There are no other tools in our inventory that can create masterful patterns in metal.

 This opportunity is still a challenge for any jeweller who has at least 4 years of experience. 

  Here is a list of Flat and Onglette-shaped blades; they are also supplied with measurements and the names of the manufacturers. Every blade that I use is made with "HSS" or "High-Speed Steel". 

 There is no other tool in our inventory that can cut patterns with such ease. If you look closely, 4 beads are holding this one stone.

 You might have seen many of these patterns previously. Repetition is my form of teaching.

  In my previous essays, I've stated that there was no computer incorporated in designing these patterns. I used only Onglette gravers to cut into the metal.

  In this particular pattern, I'm showing a novel design with a '2-bead' setting. This pattern was cut before any stone was set; this design is aptly named "Pre-Cutting".

 I incorporated Onglette, as well as Flat gravers, to achieve this pattern.

 When I was learning this honourable craft, my supervisor gave me all of these rings to cut. As I mentioned before, 'pre-cutting' is the safest method of creating a clean cut.

  Even in this design, 'pre-cutting' allows the artisan to cut patterns using both the Flat and Onglette gravers.

 I used coloured stones to distinguish the white metal from the stones.

 I have many essays on this topic of "mini-claws". Just think if the stones were set first, there would be problems & errors galore.

 You can easily see the reflected images from the metal cutting. All that is remaining is to set the multitude of small stones. I used a Flat #40 graver to cut the edge.
  When the need to resurface the blade arises, I use 'Polishing Papers' with a grit texture of #600, #800, following #1,200 grit. These 3 papers will return the high sheen that is needed to resurface the metal.

 

  Here is my bench grinder that will help me reshape the graver blade. I must have all of the graver blades in pristine condition at all times.

                    ERRORS ARE BEING DISPLAYED.

  Using an Onglette graver on soft metal can be a real challenge, as the soft metal doesn't have much strength. The tendency to make errors in cutting can be a major concern for anyone.

 Using an Onglette graver for a beginner can be fraught with many difficulties. By using a 'freehand' pattern, previous cutting experience can be what is greatly needed.

 The Onglette graver 'must cut from one hole to the next'. The graver point should enter the hole and not leave any metal along the sides of the hole.

In this photo, you can now see the cutting residue of metal.

 If the remaining line of metal can't be removed, I use a bud bur to remove the sliver of metal where needed. These 'slivers of metal' must never be seen after the stones are set.

  This is what we are aiming for, namely, clean cut lines. I'll use my bud-shaped bur and let the bur get right into the side of the holes. "One line cutting" is not deep enough; in my days of stone setting, I'd cut at least 3 times, each time deeper than the last.

 After using the Onglette graver, you can easily see the new depth being achieved. You can even see the bud bur cleaning. 

  On the right side of the blade, here are the correct angles for engraving.

   This photo shows the hole still needing the 'bur-cleaning'.

 Nothing else is required in cleaning the hole in using the Onglette graver. The 'Pavilion' opening is nicely achieved.

 

MY burs on plates/pads => 14 photos

In this essay, you will view all of my 'replaceable' burs. 

This photo displays my collection of '12 twist drills'.

 On this tray of assorted "156C" (Carbide) burs are named 'under-cutting' burs. These burs are also known as 'bearing cutters.' Regardless of the name you use, they are a remarkable tool.

 In this one tray are my 77 B' cup burs. They are needed to round off every claw setting. The downside is they seem to have a very short life span, as the inside teeth seem to wear down quite fast.

 These are our round burs; they do so much that the list is almost endless. The 'downside' is that they cannot be repaired if they get badly worn.

 On another pad is a collection of very small, round burs. These can be used as I previously mentioned, and can be used extensively. When they are badly worn, just do one thing, and that is to discard them.

 Here are two bur packs that are fresh and never touched. Each of these has a tincture of oil that will prevent our enemy, named rust, from destroying them.

 The numbers on the far left are the generic names, and those numbers on the right corner are those bur sizes.

 Some of these "77B" burs, otherwise named as 'cup burs', can be seen in various degrees of wear. Don't get attached to them if they seem to be failing in doing their job. Their job is to 'round off the tips of the claws'.

  After examining these burs up close, they need to be discarded 'post haste'. Or as 'fast as possible'.

 Here is a collection of round burs in no random order.

 In this packet of '156C' burs, they will not be touched only when their uses are required. They will be kept separate from the other pads of burs and covered with a plastic lid.

 This assortment of burs is used extensively, and you can see the many signs of wear.

 REMEMBER, if you see that the bur teeth are showing signs of wear...throw them out.

 Many of these burs shown here are nearly useless, as these teeth are now nearly non-existent.

  You can, as well, buy a 'packet of a dozen round burs' from the smallest to the largest size. Every tool supplier sells these packets for your own consumption.