How to make a wax statue 'lighter in weight, but not so costly'? There is only one technique and that is to use a specialized "3-tooth bur".
This bur literally 'removes' the wax inside the separated ligaments where the wax isn't needed.
This Level of Difficulty is 8.5 out of 10!
This is a close-up of the wax-carving 3-tooth bur. As it only cuts on wax, the teeth hardly ever wear out. If I need to dig deeper into a wax form, all I will do is to lengthen the bur from the chuck.
Don't hold any delicate wax-form too long, or it will get soft from the warmth of your fingers. Thankfully with this statue, we won't have this problem.
Please don't speed up the revolutions of the rotating-bur. Take care while doing the carving, or your '3-toothed bur' will pierce the wax pattern. Then a 'repair process' is needed, this will be shown further below.
This photo shows how delicate the wax-removing can get. BE CAREFUL.
Examine each 'wax clearing section', Just don't go at it without measuring the wax length needed.
Leave enough thickness for your metal casting. "What remains, will be metal."
Remove all residue from the "3-tooth bur", removing of wax must be seen with 'no guessing'.
For being on the safe side, keep the walls of your wax-form thin, but not too thin. REMEMBER THAT THERE IS A 6% REDUCTION between the wax => metal.
Repairing the wax-holes.
To reach into longer sections or areas, you can extend the cutting bur, as shown below.
If you keep your long section at a proper angle, you won't pierce the wall. This is what happened here.
There will be times in removing your wax, you will be needing to 'fix' your holes. I really suggest that you use a softer wax than what you are currently working on.
This wax melts at a lower temperature and as well the newer wax is of a different colour.
"This operation is surgically delicate", lower your temperature of the wax pen. Keep your melting pen clean by just heating it up and keeping the pen-tip clean where you are working.
Even if the colours of the 'repaired wax' is of a different colour, that is of no concern.
Here are both 'arms' of the statue, one is drilled, but the thickness of the wall is still too thick for being 'lighter in metal weight'. More wax removal is required, as the weight is still too heavy.
The wall of the arm on the left is the 'desired thickness'. The center 'arm' needs to be contoured more evenly. Of course the 'arm' on the right is untouched.
These are the thin wax-sprues that can be bought in any tool-supplier. I use them for making 'gates' and fixing problems in my wax-carvings.
Weighing your waxes!
This particular arm weighs 3.3 grams and this is before any removing of any wax.
After much 'careful' wax-removing, this arm now weighs 2.5 grams. Nice weight for casting!
The "face" wax-weight is a very heavy 5.5 grams. This was too heavy for metal casting and above all, so very costly.
Now compare the weight shown in the 'hollowed out' head, it's now at 3.0 grams.
The main torso of this statue weighs (a ridiculous) 25.8 grams. But how did I solve this major weight-problem?
My solution was easy, but well worth my efforts & labours.
First of all, I split the torso in halves, then easily carved out the wax. This weight went from 25.8 grams down to 8.6 grams for a reduction of 17.2 grams.
I'd call this a big "WOW".
This 'leg of the statue' needs much careful separating, as I just can't manage to use any '3-tooth' bur in it's present condition.
I can easily remove as much of the wax as needed. Then afterwards re-joining the hollowed out pieces of the leg again.
Even I had a 'challenging time' doing the carving and repairing of the wax. But suffice to say, that through all of these photos, I enjoyed explaining all of the subtle nuances to you wherever you live. "gerrylewy18@gmail.com"
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