These are INSANELY DIFFICULT projects in Diamond Setting (14 photos)

 These are the most awesome & inspiring patterns ever thought of. They are on the verge of being 'insanely difficult' but someone has to set these stones, agree? Not one of them were 'Computer Assisted Designed'.

 I knew of a CAD designer that had no idea about Diamond Setting, she made so many mistakes her husband told her to listen to Gerry Lewy. He saw that 3 of her rings were ruined, why? She had no knowledge of the basics of any gemstone setting. 

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 All of this 'hand-crafting' had no assistance with CAD. In between each stone I cut a <> pattern, it was from this pattern I worked on Bright-Cutting each of these angled cuttings. Even if two stones were not equal in distance, that didn't deter me from doing my cuttings. What remained after I set the stones were little claws.

 I used my Onglette graver to cut the metal and my "Bead-Burnisher" to mold over the metal onto the stones. All of the graver cutting was done prior to any gemstone setting, this terminology is "Pre-Cutting". Those little triangles when the stones are set will be diminished in size and with a graver they can easily be moved over the girdle of the stone.

 This is my easiest form of setting. I had to make sure that the ring retained the 'dome effect' after all of the hammering was completed. I dare not use my "Reciprocating Hammer" on this ring all I used was my flat surfaced hammer of 85 grams in weight. I used my "156C" (undercutting bur) to create a seat for each stone.

 I had to make sure all of the 13 stones were tight and not crooked. Around each stone, I chose to 'Bright-Cut' the inner circle. This Difficulty level is at 9+ out of 10.

 Imagine setting ROUND stones in a line, this is relatively easy. Now try to set square 5mm stones. As you can see in this photo there is a space at the end of the row, (I plan mistakes just for this essay). In this photo there are no spaces permitted in between or at either end of the settings.

 To prepare the process of setting, I will start at one end and have the stones be of the same width all along the row of stones. IF THERE IS A SPACE. you could solder the space and fill in the 'gap'.

 When all of the stones are set, PLEASE very gently, use your Triangular file of #4 cut and trim the inside metal. To prepare a line of bearings for the girdle of the row of stones I suggest to use a mini-ROUND bur of #300 or #400 width. This where the Girdle of the stones will lay. 

 At each end of the long line of setting you MUST drill 4 little holes where each of the 'end stones will sit', these are only for the corners of the 'end stones'. There is so much to consider in this one setting.

 Mistakes can easily occur, please be very diligent in your making of 'Girdle bearings', if the line of carving is too high, the Table of the stones won't allow any metal to be formed over any of the Square stones.

This was a ring from long ago, but the rules of setting have not changed one bit. Let me explain how this ring was set, please bear with me as this ring is 8.0 out of 10 of Difficulty.

 

 One of the least used cutting "Setting Burs" that I have is a straight sided edge for cutting perpendicular, but not like the HSS bur which is at a 45degree angle. Before any setting takes place, a complete polishing of the ring and the horizontal lines of metal should be done NOW. Never when the stone is in the ring.

 The next step is to use a saw blade of #4/0 thickness and cut straight down, as shown here. You are now making a mini-claw that will be bent over the Girdle of the stone. After the metal is moved over the girdle of this large stone, your Triangular #4 grit file must shape wherever the moving of metal took place. Don't leave this to your large and aggressive cloth wheels.

 I'd be using the Tapered Pumice Wheels #180 and #1,000 grit wheels to do the smoothing & cleaning processes. 

 The amount of metal that is used in the mini-claws is governed by the thickness of the metal you 'saw-cut', plain & simple. This takes experience and much practice.

 I've covered many times about Bezel setting in previous topics. It's here that the 'smoothing & finishing' of the shank should be done prior to any actual stone setting.

 In Diamond Setting we as 'experienced setters' are confronted continually with many challenges, one of which is Pave' Setting ultra-small diamonds.

 In this collection are 250 stones that make 1.25 total Carat weight, you do the math. I used a collection of round burs just to drill one hole for each stone. I created 4 beads for each stone and had no reason to take any 'short-cuts' in using a 2-bead setting. 

 Have you ever set a 'square stone in a round hole'? Here are the results and it can be done! If you go to my blog you will see all of the finer details of the gem-setting process. The Difficulty Scale is beyond 25 out of 10. 

 When you are examining these two rings, always remember that the claws must not be looking like 'mountains of metal' over each corner of the Princess-cut stone.

 When the stone has been completed in stone setting, I actually "BRIGHT-CUT' on the inside corner of the metal claw, why? I'm not removing any security of the stone, but enhancing the effects of the Princess-Cut stone in the ring.

 Now honestly judge for yourselves which ring looks more appealing? That graver being shown is my FLAT graver of #40 size. This was shown to to me while I was learning my craft some 6 decades ago. 

 One of the highlights of my career is this little bauble. Just for the Pear-Shape, Full Bezel stone the cost was $12,000.00+ this was circa 2001. My client informed me 3 other stone setters refused to even touch it due to the many defects inside of the Pavilion.

 YES, I did use my Reciprocating Hammer (at a gentle touch) while setting this stone. I'd classify this insanely difficult setting at 30+, out of 10. For further details on how this was set, please read the essay that is in this blog.

 I saw this ring in an upscale jewellery store, I just had to capture the enormity of the stone settings. Unfortunately I have no details on it's construction except that it is beautiful.

 From what I see is that the green stones are nicely set 'side-by-side' with no visible spaces.

Another delicate Emerald ring that I used in my blog, is of the setting Square Emeralds in 'End-Bezels'. The chances of breaking these very delicate stones is high on the setting scale. 

 Not every ring is just a ring, but this little bauble won me some accolades in the process. I used colour wherever possible, those round stones are actually PINK DIAMONDS.

 I never think inside the box but always 'outside the box' when creating or setting difficult stones.

Here is the proof that the above round disk was a result of a phrase. "Nothing is too difficult, it just takes more time to complete it".